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Help: Car starts and stalls after 7 seconds, runs rough

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Old 02-07-07, 10:03 PM
  #26  
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let me take it off your hands..... I'll give you $100 for it! ....... I stripped my engine to find a cracked turbine housing and exhaust manifold.... It was totally running limp. There are far worse things trust me.... A rebuild costs less than all the thing's I am having to buy. Quit whinning, and take your time. Milky oil sounds like blown coolant seal (as stated before.) Next, buy the right plugs, and make sure they are hooked up correctly, and third, get new gas. If that doesn't work, search.
Old 02-07-07, 10:21 PM
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ok, 1st off.... I have a Nice *** haynes Rx-7 manuel. 2nd..of all the local Napa store is charging over $50 total for a fuel filter and air filter (dont worry i cancelled the order and will be paying a 10% restocking fee.) I told them that this car uses leading and trailing plugs...they said ok but these plugs will work fine....so i will be taking those back and i will go to autozone and buy ones labeled L & T.
so at the Napa store today I bought 5 qts of oil, Oil filter, Fuel Filter, Air Filter, Antifreeze, Spark Plugs, Fuel system cleaner, some screws. and my total came to $94 sum dollars.... So theres some Mazda BS for ya... now i will be getting my money back on the special order of air and fuel filter, so ill be getting $50 back. 2nd of all... I am a senior in high school and I have no job....I have no job due to this pofs breaking down...I got the idea of fixing my car with the last $100 I had so i culd get a job....but it seems like the Mazda world isnt gonna let that happen.... I obviously do not have the money to rebuild this engine into a 455Hp Twin Turbo beast..

3rd.... This car use to over heat all the time, due to the water pump leaking... and the car has sat for 3 months with just plain water in it. and the past month it has sat in the freezing cold with no water in the radiator and prob some water in the block....so it's most likey phucked...but i will find out this weekend.... but most likely when it comes to a Mazda and my luck i will find out that it is phucked... and i will be selling this car for $500 or sell for parts as i now owe $655 on a credit card , need to pay that off b4 I leave for the Army.

by the way thanks for the Diagram...that will be highly useful...and are you guys certain this car has a gas tank drainplug?
Old 02-07-07, 10:26 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 383_Rx7

and the car has sat for 3 months with just plain water in it. and the past month it has sat in the freezing cold with no water in the radiator and prob some water in the block...
Your engine is ruined. Running only water in an engine is a sure-fire way to corrode everything in the engine, no matter what marque or type of engine that may be.
Old 02-07-07, 10:31 PM
  #29  
Taste great, more filling

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You know the army pays you money, right? There's no reason you can't pay your credit card AFTER you join the Army. Also, Air Filter, Oil Filter, Fuel Filter, Antifreeze, Spark Plugs, cleaner and five quarts of oil is pretty much the same price no matter what car you drive. I've got a 1988 BMW in my driveway right now with a bad $380 fuel pump, so your life could be much worse car-wise.
My advice, pick up the car and put it on jackstands and draing your gas - don't by beer and prostitutes every night once you get out of Basic, and when you get back you can take your engine down to Kevin Landers and he'll rebuild it for $1000. Or else sell it someone who'll take care of it.
I don't mean to shatter your hopes and dreams here, but you're not ever going to have a 400+ hp Rx7, because you have to be smart and know what you're doing, or have a lot of money and a good tuner. You don't have any of those things, and the guys from Normally Aspirated Piston Auto Parts aren't helping you out either.
I appreciate your contribution to our country, don't get me wrong - but before you get assigned your MOS, you'd better look up what "Cannon Fodder" means before you sign the piece of paper, because they're sure not going to make you an engineer.
Old 02-07-07, 10:49 PM
  #30  
53.6%/46.4% - Crap!

 
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Hey be nice on this guy. We were all young once, and like a lot of people he got this car without knowing fully what to expect out of it. These engines are old and things break. Seals rot, crack, etc.

It isn't the best for a daily unless you have rebuilt it and are ready for what might come. I can understand his frustration completely if he expected it to be reliable and yet he keeps having things come up. I also understand the money thing.

Out of curiosity, what year/model is this?
Old 02-08-07, 12:08 AM
  #31  
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Crank the engine over for a while and check the coolant, see if its thickened or if there is oil in it, if so the engine has bad coolant seals.

An o-ring and gasket kit is less than $200 for an NA. With patience and that much money and an engine hoist you could have a running engine with no leaks.

Or if you want I can find you a Camaro thats the same year as that rx-7 with rusted out wheels wells with a bad engine and tranny for real cheap. You'll just have to put it back together.

There is no reason to be calling an rx-7 a piece of ****, just go try and change an alternator on an integra.
Old 02-08-07, 08:03 AM
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ok look at this...this is on the autozone website.


"The old spark plug design and the new design are
interchangeable and can be mixed in an engine with
no impact to performance."

AC-DELCO R43XLS $1.99

CHAMPION_DOUBLE_PLAT
Platinum power 3405 $2.49

AUTOLITE_RESISTOR 2626 0 YR

V-POWER-NGK 1233 "



I have the Autolite 2626's

so i have the right plugs....so this is a fuel problem
would the Air Flow devices or Vacum devices have anything to do with the car stalling after 7sec....like what if i replace the gas and it still does it?







ok hopefully this weekend... I can replace the gas and try things..
I think i seen a website on here that showed you a gheto way of fixing a coolant seal...like you poor something in your radiator and run it for a lill bit and let it sit for 30min and it suppose to fix the coolant seal leak... anyone know that site? i forget where i saw that..i think it under the faq section hopefully. My radiator system now has "Coolant" in it and a new water pump. So shuld i worry bout it running on plain water in the past? I jus wanna get it running decently so I can sell it as a daily driver.

and i will not sell this car for $110.....my tranny alone is worth $110...

Last edited by 383_Rx7; 02-08-07 at 08:11 AM.
Old 02-08-07, 08:37 AM
  #33  
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First of all, if there were a miracle liquid that would fix a leaky coolant seal, it would be a temporary fix at best. And selling a car knowing it has internal engine problems without informing a potential buyer is just plain dishonest. Diagnosing a rotary shouldn't start with throwing parts at it. It should start with a compression test, a spark check, coolant pressure test, a block check ( a dye test that checks for combustion gases in the coolant), etc. Check around for a competent repair shop that works on rotaries, these tests aren't all that expensive unless it's a Mazda dealer.
Old 02-08-07, 08:38 AM
  #34  
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Hey man, not to be rude, but if you are trust Autozone or just about any "chain" auto supply store over the wealth of knowledge that some of these guys have...well...wuite frankly you are out of your mind! =)

I believe you are still trying to do this the cheap way (and yes I understand your situation) since the AZ plugs are going to be less expensive than the NGK's.

PLEASE LISTEN TO PEOPLE LIKE ICEMARK. They know of what they speak and they are trying to help.

I also must agree with the sentiment that this is the wrong car for you. YOu have a 20 year old car that may not have been properly maintained. It's going to take some (a lot) money and a lot of TLC to get it running like a champ.

Don't claim you are going to take your car to the "junkyard" out of anger if you aren't going to sell it!

I'd sell it and get a civic or something...seriously...where you are at now, you'll be a great deal happier.

GG
Old 02-08-07, 08:45 AM
  #35  
No es bueno.

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mine was shutting off like that becasue my air pump wasnt hooked up. just my $0.02. good luck with your car.
Old 02-08-07, 08:50 AM
  #36  
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seriously if your putting temp fixes on it just to get rid of it then thats waay dishonest and dick.
have you ever had someone do that to you?
yeah it not fun
Old 02-08-07, 08:52 AM
  #37  
Engine, Not Motor

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Originally Posted by Omixeo
As for the gas, take the tank out and empty it, or you can siphon it out with your mouth and a hose.
Please do not give dangerous advice out on this forum!

It goes without saying that if you siphon fuel using your mouth, you are a complete and total idiot. You WILL be making a call to the poison control center later that day. Seriously, ask me how I know this...

For about $3 from any local hardware store you can buy a siphon with a squeeze bulb on the top. Not only is it the safest way to empty a tank, it's damn fun to use and you will be wandering around the house looking for other fluids to transfer...
Old 02-08-07, 09:50 AM
  #38  
Taste great, more filling

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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Please do not give dangerous advice out on this forum!

It goes without saying that if you siphon fuel using your mouth, you are a complete and total idiot. You WILL be making a call to the poison control center later that day. Seriously, ask me how I know this...

For about $3 from any local hardware store you can buy a siphon with a squeeze bulb on the top. Not only is it the safest way to empty a tank, it's damn fun to use and you will be wandering around the house looking for other fluids to transfer...

Besides that, even if you manage not to swallow any of it, and just get that initial squirt in your mouth, varnished gasoline is an *** taste that will take about 4 hours of water, beer, and soft drinks to get rid of. Ask me how I know that.

So it's definitely worth the $3 hardware store transfer kit... just fight the urge to transfer toilet water to the dog dish. That's just mean.
Old 02-08-07, 12:10 PM
  #39  
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So, what year and model rx7 do you have because I may be interested on buying parts from you. At this point, you will get more money by parting it out then throwing to a junkyard, not to mention that that's just cruel.
Old 02-08-07, 01:32 PM
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it is a 1986 NA, base model, 5-speed.

and i wasnt planning on being dishonest when selling it...i want to get it to the point where the car will be drivable to the buyers house. So that way he doesnt have to go thru the trouble of towing it home. And they will be able to hear it run b4 they buy it, instead of wondering if they shuld risk buying a car that doesnt run.
Old 02-08-07, 03:36 PM
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ok i was trying to start it today...and it was doing the same 5 second thing... so I pulled the ignition wires off the coil...and put them back on...then i tried to start it...and it wont start at all....you just hear it trying to start...so wtf is that? is it a bad coil? any offers on this pos?
Old 02-09-07, 12:52 AM
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Assuming you don't have a compression gauge or fuel pressure gauge, one simple thing to check for is the air intake boot between the throttle body and airflow meter. There cannot be any air leaks from a cracked boot or loose clamps, the engine would be running on un-measured air and the fuel pump may not stay running due to the switch contacts inside the airflow meter not staying closed.
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