Heres my problem that has been driving me crazy: new rebuilld with 300 great running miles on it, and now it justs stalls out after about 4 seconds of running. AFM resistances all check out per the FSM. No vaccuum leaks found, injectors don't leak-took off the fuel rails and pressurized the lines and no leaky injectors, fuel pump is good-verified by swapping in another, have spark, was timed correctly beforehand. Hot engine TPS unsure but set to 1 k ohm down from 1.2k ohm, at idle setting on cold engine.

The water sensor plug is definitely connected, verified by removing the UIM. I even pressurized the intake system to couple psi and found no obvious leaks.
The Boost/Pressure sensor's all check out to spec. BAC is functional-verified by jumping 12 volts to it.

I made a LED code checker and found out the atmospheric boost sensor next to the ECU was unplugged for those first 300 miles, but other than that one, there are no codes being thrown. The stalling problem is still there after that was plugged back in. The ECU has the Rtek 1.7 chip if that changes anything.

Brand new fuel filter was also put in, same problem. If i unplug the AFM, the car runs. With the connector plugged in and holding the flapper in the AFM open more also allows the car to stay running. The previous owner made a TID that positions the AFM 90 degrees off normal with the plug facing up. It has always run fine like that before, so I don't think that is the cause to this problem but I am going to correct that.

I just drained the 10w30 oil and it was thin and reeked of gasoline. I might have flooded the car before when I was testing for spark. But I don't think the car is flooded now because it starts, but dies. Flooded means no start, right?

I am in the process of locating a known good AFM to swap in. I have to say that I'm out of ideas... Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

sounds like afm man, thats what my car did when my tid fell off the turbo, starts, runs for a second and quits, and it wont rev at all.

 

But he checked the resistances and they were good, could it still be bad.

 

Anyone have an idea?

 

eehhh, bumps are bad... you might know why in a sec(when a mod sees)... but yea, ill check the AFM and TID again, maybe theres sum sort of crack or sumthing on it which is pretty cimmon, and double check for leaks.

Edit: oh, and maybe check the trottle cable to see if its loose

 

Yeah that makes sense to stall when the AFM is seeing no airflow. It is connected electrically and by couplers and it still stalls.

REvup13b, I pressurized the intake tract to like 5 psi and found no leaks and went over every connection, vaccuum hose, and cap many times over.

 

If the afm is fine and there are no bad vacuum leaks... And your spark is fine and all that stuff... Coudl be a clogged exhaust maybe? See if it can keep running if someone holds the afm flap in a small amount when you start it.

Could just be that the exhaust is so horribly clogged that the air can barely flow through it.

 

The car continues to run when the AFM flapper is held open. I highly doubt the exhaust is clogged at all, let alone horribly, 3" from turbo to tailpipe and no cats.

 

I might be buying a Haltech E6K now, that might fix this one or cause more problems. We'll see.

 

try to replace the TPS i have the same prob and its either that or the thermowax

 

There is no thermowax on the car now. I'll be getting an S5 TPS with the Haltech.