yeah, so this past weekend i got the new(to me) motor in my FC. its a US spec 13bt into my 87 TII both S4 engine swaped it out and it fires up and idles great, gotta play with the fuel pump switch a bit to get it started, but i do have 720cc secondarys (w/rTek though....) anyway. got it started and took it for a drive, and it was doggin like crazy!!! the turbo wouldnt even spool past about 4 psi or so, and it took me for ever to get to 30mph!! so i figured it was the gas that has been sitting sence october in teh tank (about a quarter tank, and i do premix, also i think i threw some stabil in teh tank......) anyway, put in 5 gal. premium and 5oz. oil and bounced the rear end up and down a bit to help mix things up. then proceded to drive back home. on the way back home it felt a little better but still didnt gop for ****!!! felt smooth and all though but just no power...and hten about half way home it died on me, but once i let off the gas and disengaged the clutch it would idle fine, turns out the ecu must have went into some kinda fail safe mode as it will not rev past 1500rpm!!! i checked over all the conections and all i could see have been conected, first thing i chjecked was the AFM and thats in and tight!! i have emisions removed, took out teh sub zero start....simplified the harness (pretty sure i didnt take off too much....lol) and thats about it for the engine bay for mods that would make any differance.

so, what do u think it could be?? do u think timing would have something to do with it??? i will be checking that as soon as i can get a timing light, i pulled the plug wires while the car was running and they arched so im getting spark....and like i said engine runs pretty smooth and sounds great!!!! but yeah, any and all help would be appreciated!!!!

 

sounds like a fuel issue to me, were the injectors that came with the "new" engine ever tested? I know you mentioned you have 720cc secondaires, but were they new or did the person you bought the motor from just tell you that it had them?

 

You should check the back pressure that you are getting. If your two front cats are clogged they will kill your engines horsepower and revs because you are lacking the proper clean air to burn.

 

the injectors are mine i had them on the previous motor and worked great!!!

i have gutted the second cat, but the pre- cat is still there, had that last year as well with no problems....i dont think, i was having a problem boosting over 10 psi no matter what i did, which i thought might have been cause of that or the exhaust leak i had (turned out to be a blown turbo gasket, between mani and turbo)

i think i may have another exhaust leak as well also today, i hooked the bat. back up (un-hooked for 2 days to restart ECU) and got back in teh car and it started again(starts hard every time though...have to play with fuel pump switch or use the rtek's clear flood mode) and i drove it again, this time i was able to get the turbo to spool up to full spool(around 6-8 psi, runing stock w/g with no boost controler right now) but still no acceleration, also the car back fired when i would shift, i played with the timeing a little bit (needed slight tweeking) and it seemed to have helped but not really lol

how do i go about checking the back pressure?? i put my hands behind the exhaust and it dosnt seem like its restricked....but then again, its been a while sence i put my hands back there lol

also, i tweeked with the varibable resister for idle control and i got the car to not die after start up before i drove it, but now it does nothing when i adjust it and im idling at like 1200 rpm and the 1500 rev limit kicked in again

thats all i can think of to add right now, ill keep posting up as i find new things to get u as much info as i can!! i really really appreciat the help and thank everyone who is helping, if i get the car ready to run in the drift day this sunday i will make u all my best friends forever!!!! lol

 

Could be TPS. Certainly check that soon, if you didn't before you put the engine in. FC3S pro.com has a diy.

 

hrm.....it was good on the last motor lol, i pretty much just swaped over the short block and used everything else from the old motor....but ill check it out anyway, wont hurt

 

ya you're describing a TPS that isn't plugged in at all... this happened with me when i disconnected the tps to get to a fuel leak, then reconnected and started it up and had the exact same problems as u (tho i didnt drive it that way, knew something was wrong as soon as it cranked)

unplugged and replugged the tps like 10 times to dig into new metal on the contacts and it was back to normal

 

ill look into that, thanx!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

cleaned off the TPS connector, seems to have helped a little bit, but not much. still no power under accel. pulled off the down pipe and started her up, and still nothing.....i am gunna try changing the plugs i guess and see what else i can come up with......it no longer sets a 1500 rev limit any more though, and it doesnt back fire quite as much. i also think im gunna swap out throttle bodies and TPS sensors as well as i think i might have fucked this one up when i took it apart to adjust the cable pully....

 

Can yo get a fuel pressure gauge connected?
It will sort out several posibilities.

 

A bad TPS would still let your car run, it would just run like ***. But not like what he's describing.

 

i know my fuel pressure is high, but that didnt hurt anything last year, i am running the same setup!! exept this year i removed the flapper for the twin scroll and welded up the hole!! i have a Walbro and stock FPR i know i need to get an aftermarket one still lol

and ur ruling out the possiblity of the TPS??? casue im getting ready to go swap that out and see what happens...

 

I'm not sure, but isn't that a lot of oil??? I don't premix but that sounds high.

 

idk, i hear all different ratios to run, when i first started i was told 1.5oz to one gal. then 1 to 1 and now im hearing a lot lower lol but yeah im starting to think it is a turbo issue when i would sit and rev it in the driveway it would spool to about 4psi then after about 6500 or so it will jump up to the full 6psi or so. so yeah, i think the oil is fromthe turbo and there seems to be some coolent leaking from it too. so yeah, if that is the case im pissed, i wanted to wait till i can afford an RX-6 maybe ill jsut have to go back to teh 240 till i can get it lol but yeah ill post up some vids i took to see if u can tell anything from it......

 

1oz./1gal. is a good mix.

 

alright, im not retarded then but yeah, after all my diagnostics im just gunna blame it on the motor andsell it as a core and go a head and get teh 13b-re as i originaly wanted too and run a stand alone with it heheheehe so if anyone is looking for a core i have 2 of them. the acc. and block off plates will stay on teh motor that is in the car and needs to be pulled, it COULD still be good but idk. the other core motor just has a blown coolent seal. but it will need acc. and block off plates or the emissions replaced. i also have a tII trans for sale which needs a rebuild, 2nd and 5th grind from time to time, ill make a fs thread prolly tom night when i have more time with more **** in it, till then yeah, pm me if interested

 

ok, so i cant give up lol going over things and i was wondering...how important is the ambiant air sensor?? i am not sure if i still have that intact or not as i pulled the blower motor and A/C Evaporator out last year in the fall and dont remember what all got unpluged lol and thats the only sensor that im not sure weither or not i have pluged in. i know i have every other one exept the sub zero start one pluged in though so idk.....ill look over it tom after work

 

are your grounds all plugged in?

 

i believe so....ill have to print off the ground location pic too and check.

 

ok, so turns out the atmospheric pressure sensor is mia and i think i might have thrown it out so ill get another one of thoes and also noticed the water thermo sensor isnt pluged in, now i gotta hunt down the wire for that and repair that too lol hopefully thatll take care of it!!

 

The manifold pressure sensor is on the right strut tower, but the atmospheric pressure sensor is INSIDE the ECU.

 

according to the program we run here at work (im a *learning* mechanic lol) says its behind the dash on the right side, but i dont like ondemand much and think its inferior to other programs so it could be wrong lol if it is then n/m on the atmospheric press. sensor, but in the trouble shooting guid froim the FSM it says the water thermo sensor needs to be checked for a few things, ill hook that back up and see what happens

thanx