help... buying a 7 soon...
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help... buying a 7 soon...
Hey folks,
I need your opinions here...
Out of the following 7's, which would make better (practical/economical/safer) sense to to try and buy? One is certainly more new/expensive but the others seem a little cheaper than average. Assuming the cheaper ones may not be in as good shape, would the difference in cost be enough to cover finding and repairing likely problems, and have some left over? I've never had a 7 before (or a used-car even), but I think now's the time for me to get one. Just don't know which'd be the best way to go.
Thanks for the help!
Kevin
Saw these on Autotrader in Socal...
1991 MAZDA RX7, convt, 5 spd, 47k mi, fully loaded, exc
cond, 16 whls, new tires, plus orig BBS whls, red w/ blk lthr,
$7000
1989 MAZDA RX7 CONVERTIBLE-red hot fun, looks & runs
great, 5spd, cruise, PS, PB, AM FM stereo, clean, July 2002
registration, 110k mi, $3800
1988 MAZDA RX7 CONVERTIBLE-Red with grey int. 5spd,
AC, P/windows, runs perfect, 141,000 mi, $3650
I need your opinions here...
Out of the following 7's, which would make better (practical/economical/safer) sense to to try and buy? One is certainly more new/expensive but the others seem a little cheaper than average. Assuming the cheaper ones may not be in as good shape, would the difference in cost be enough to cover finding and repairing likely problems, and have some left over? I've never had a 7 before (or a used-car even), but I think now's the time for me to get one. Just don't know which'd be the best way to go.
Thanks for the help!
Kevin
Saw these on Autotrader in Socal...
1991 MAZDA RX7, convt, 5 spd, 47k mi, fully loaded, exc
cond, 16 whls, new tires, plus orig BBS whls, red w/ blk lthr,
$7000
1989 MAZDA RX7 CONVERTIBLE-red hot fun, looks & runs
great, 5spd, cruise, PS, PB, AM FM stereo, clean, July 2002
registration, 110k mi, $3800
1988 MAZDA RX7 CONVERTIBLE-Red with grey int. 5spd,
AC, P/windows, runs perfect, 141,000 mi, $3650
#2
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since no one else replied, i will .
you obviously want a Vert, das coo..
In 1989, mazda made some revisions to their FC's, so make sure to get an 89 and up if you have the choice. Plus, they look a bit cooler. I would go check out that 89, and also the 91, and just see which one feels better to you. You will know. Plus, if any problems come up, we are always here for ya.
you obviously want a Vert, das coo..
In 1989, mazda made some revisions to their FC's, so make sure to get an 89 and up if you have the choice. Plus, they look a bit cooler. I would go check out that 89, and also the 91, and just see which one feels better to you. You will know. Plus, if any problems come up, we are always here for ya.
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I myself have just recently aquired an 89' vert, the car has 185k on the original motor but it is showing signs on needing a new engine....
So definitely keep your mileage in mind....
More miles = More problems in future....
F.Y.I,
If your fc needs a new heart you are looking at about 2,000 just for the engine then another 500 for install....
Unless you are mechanically inclined, you could drop it in yourself....
10th Ann. Fc3s
89' Vert
So definitely keep your mileage in mind....
More miles = More problems in future....
F.Y.I,
If your fc needs a new heart you are looking at about 2,000 just for the engine then another 500 for install....
Unless you are mechanically inclined, you could drop it in yourself....
10th Ann. Fc3s
89' Vert
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go with 88
the electronics in the 89-up models are notoriuos for problems. 88's are simpler angines with less power but with exhaust and intake investment you will be up to their levels. Consider getting an 88 with a shot engine. there are great companies in your area that will get you a fantactic rebuilt/slighlty ported engine for $1900. Then you will be having a blast with the best bang for buck and reliability.
My .02
My .02
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thanks.
More power is definitely good, but electrical system reliability's kinda important too. Are the electrical problems cheap/easy to fix?
Also, one reason why I was thinking of the cheaper 7 was that after any repairs, I might have enough cash to get some mods! And from what I've read on this forum, there's a lot that can be done and it sounds fun. The other side of the coin though, is that I don't know if modding a convertible really buys me much. Does it???
Kevin
More power is definitely good, but electrical system reliability's kinda important too. Are the electrical problems cheap/easy to fix?
Also, one reason why I was thinking of the cheaper 7 was that after any repairs, I might have enough cash to get some mods! And from what I've read on this forum, there's a lot that can be done and it sounds fun. The other side of the coin though, is that I don't know if modding a convertible really buys me much. Does it???
Kevin
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Originally posted by klatk
thanks.
More power is definitely good, but electrical system reliability's kinda important too. Are the electrical problems cheap/easy to fix?
Also, one reason why I was thinking of the cheaper 7 was that after any repairs, I might have enough cash to get some mods! And from what I've read on this forum, there's a lot that can be done and it sounds fun. The other side of the coin though, is that I don't know if modding a convertible really buys me much. Does it???
Kevin
thanks.
More power is definitely good, but electrical system reliability's kinda important too. Are the electrical problems cheap/easy to fix?
Also, one reason why I was thinking of the cheaper 7 was that after any repairs, I might have enough cash to get some mods! And from what I've read on this forum, there's a lot that can be done and it sounds fun. The other side of the coin though, is that I don't know if modding a convertible really buys me much. Does it???
Kevin
It really depends on your goals however. The 89+ is a bit heavier, performance is about equal. I would consider buying a car with a quesionable engine and swapping in a TII engine and drivetrain.
My 88 Convertible runs 16.15 in the 1/4 (more than a full second faster than stock- about 1.5 seconds actually) with the following mods: Intake, exhaust (full exhaust, but with a cat) and the 6 ports wired open, remove the spare and jack, and the passenger seat.
Convertibles are about 375 lbs. heavier than coupes for the same year, so the coupes ARE faster... but the convertible is, IMHO, more fun and classier.
If all-out performance is your goal, get a Turbo II. If performance without a turbo is your goal, get a sport model (lightweight, no sunroof, power steering, or power ANYTHING for that matter...) but for FUN get the convertible. I constantly get stares, compliments, kids telling their mom they want THAT car, offers to buy it, etc...
Oh... the stock wheels on the convertible look really good- I notice the 91 had 16s on there- not stock. No big deal though. $7k for a low-miles 91 is a good deal. The other 2 cars are good deals too IF they are nice. Also, look on ebay, there were a few on there that merit attention.
Brad
#7
IMHO I just don't see the vert as the speed machine that I do the coupes. I have a 91 vert that I bought from my Dad, who was the original owner so it is mint. I also have an 86 Sport that I converted to TII with a 91 13BT, so I have the best of both worlds. Vert for cruises and canyon carving and the 86 for track days and for racing.
The 86-88's had the same ammount of electrical problems as the 89+'s did. They were just different for the most part. The 89+ has some better features about it. All FC's had problems, but then again, what car dosen't have common problems that their followers don't know about? =) A few of these are simple to fix. Some things like the hot start problem are more prone to the 88's but the OMP on the 89+ can go out, and they are over $1000 from a dealer. So the problems are diverse, but there is plenty of support to combat them on the net.
The MOST important thing to do with any FC you want to buy, is take it to MAZDA and have them compression test it...period. No half assed shops, spend the few bucks and have Mazda say it is ok. Mileage is usually the tell tale in N/A's but do it just to make sure. Rebuilds are not that cheap. Even doing it yourself can easliy cost $1000 just for the seal/bearing kits. Feel free to email me with any direct questions.
The 86-88's had the same ammount of electrical problems as the 89+'s did. They were just different for the most part. The 89+ has some better features about it. All FC's had problems, but then again, what car dosen't have common problems that their followers don't know about? =) A few of these are simple to fix. Some things like the hot start problem are more prone to the 88's but the OMP on the 89+ can go out, and they are over $1000 from a dealer. So the problems are diverse, but there is plenty of support to combat them on the net.
The MOST important thing to do with any FC you want to buy, is take it to MAZDA and have them compression test it...period. No half assed shops, spend the few bucks and have Mazda say it is ok. Mileage is usually the tell tale in N/A's but do it just to make sure. Rebuilds are not that cheap. Even doing it yourself can easliy cost $1000 just for the seal/bearing kits. Feel free to email me with any direct questions.
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#8
If you want reliability consider a pre-89' SE model, they had a couple options if you want, sun roof and power steering, as far as i know. I have neither, power NOTHING. I've actually come to like not having power steering, i get much better response and feel over my friends who has power steering and sunroof... and after about 6 months, not having a sun roof doesn't bother me either.
About electrical problems, you get the warning lights going off every once and while, i've never had anything serious... but then again, i have no power anything, and i love it.
I purchased my car with a rebuilt motor, new paint, new carpeting, mint interior with a totalled center consol which i purchased an 89' center consol for $15 from a junk yard. I got my car for $2000 but I also have connections. And no, my car had almost none of the mods you see in my sig. when I purchased it, right now its probably got around $6,000 total including cost of car, but then again, I rebuilt my motor for $700.
89-91 really aren't much faster, and depending on your preference they may or may not look better, i personally like the 86-88 better. 89-91's are heavier due to unecessary weight adders.
You want a convertible though and the 89-91 convertibles are better than the 86-88.
About electrical problems, you get the warning lights going off every once and while, i've never had anything serious... but then again, i have no power anything, and i love it.
I purchased my car with a rebuilt motor, new paint, new carpeting, mint interior with a totalled center consol which i purchased an 89' center consol for $15 from a junk yard. I got my car for $2000 but I also have connections. And no, my car had almost none of the mods you see in my sig. when I purchased it, right now its probably got around $6,000 total including cost of car, but then again, I rebuilt my motor for $700.
89-91 really aren't much faster, and depending on your preference they may or may not look better, i personally like the 86-88 better. 89-91's are heavier due to unecessary weight adders.
You want a convertible though and the 89-91 convertibles are better than the 86-88.
#9
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Thanks for the input, guys!
I've always wanted a 7 and I almost bought an early SE at a great deal a couple weeks back, but then I took a ride in a co-worker's M3 convertible and found out how much fun having the top down is. I definitely want a vert now, and thank god I can get the two together.
Speed and mods would be fun, I think, but aren't my primary motivation here (as I haven't really ever spent time souping up a car before). Anything'll be a step up performance-wise for me (89 Accord) so I don't think I'll complain, but at the same time I want to know I can do respectably. A vert might not be as fast as other 7's, but I'm hoping it's fast enough. It should beat the pants off a Miata, right?
Some more questions though:
What's an OMP?
Is $2-3k about what a whole new engine'll cost? Given that, does it make sense to go for the car with the best body and just get the engine later?
RX&nCRX- Why, or in what ways are 89-91 verts better than the 88s?
If I buy a cheaper vert, then I may have some money leftover to mod it some, but is that even worth it? (I may have a lot more questions on mods for the forum later, if that's the way I go)
Thanks again,
Kevin
I've always wanted a 7 and I almost bought an early SE at a great deal a couple weeks back, but then I took a ride in a co-worker's M3 convertible and found out how much fun having the top down is. I definitely want a vert now, and thank god I can get the two together.
Speed and mods would be fun, I think, but aren't my primary motivation here (as I haven't really ever spent time souping up a car before). Anything'll be a step up performance-wise for me (89 Accord) so I don't think I'll complain, but at the same time I want to know I can do respectably. A vert might not be as fast as other 7's, but I'm hoping it's fast enough. It should beat the pants off a Miata, right?
Some more questions though:
What's an OMP?
Is $2-3k about what a whole new engine'll cost? Given that, does it make sense to go for the car with the best body and just get the engine later?
RX&nCRX- Why, or in what ways are 89-91 verts better than the 88s?
If I buy a cheaper vert, then I may have some money leftover to mod it some, but is that even worth it? (I may have a lot more questions on mods for the forum later, if that's the way I go)
Thanks again,
Kevin
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conv. Rx7 aren't very much slower than the coupes. But JUST DONT GET An AUTO!!!!...please..those are just slow and annoying(i own an auto 90 conv. rx7 and an manual 1991 coupe rx7) i would go with the 89-91 conv. over the 88 conv. even if you have to pay more, because the tail lights(they are just awesome), the different engine is better, the front bunper looks a lot better, better accessories.......
Luke
Luke
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out of those 3, get this one....
1989 MAZDA RX7 CONVERTIBLE-red hot fun, looks & runs
great, 5spd, cruise, PS, PB, AM FM stereo, clean, July 2002
registration, 110k mi, $3800
i bought mine for a whopping $800 canadian and only thing wrong is it needs 2new tires ( whoops ) and new rear brakes.... thats all!...
*cough* it had 92,780km's on the original engine too....
1989 MAZDA RX7 CONVERTIBLE-red hot fun, looks & runs
great, 5spd, cruise, PS, PB, AM FM stereo, clean, July 2002
registration, 110k mi, $3800
i bought mine for a whopping $800 canadian and only thing wrong is it needs 2new tires ( whoops ) and new rear brakes.... thats all!...
*cough* it had 92,780km's on the original engine too....
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