sublimeracing

I can't figure this out. Every time Leave my car(after driving/running) and DON'T set my factory alarm the battery loses almost all of its charge. (with the alarm NOT set it only takes as long as it takes you to pump gas to get weak.-leaving it a couple of minutes to a couple hours has the same resuilts--battery almost too weak to turn the engine over) A couple of times I had to jump it, but if I set the alarm I never have a problem. I thought it was a short or a grounded wire but why would setting the alarm keep the battery from losing its charge. Please help. Thanks

I need to figure this out soon so when I get my turbo timer. I know you can't set the alarm when the car is still on, right. I read on anohther thread that it won't work

Icemark

Yes you can use a T timer and the stock or an aftermarket alarm, it just takes re-wiring the ignition input to the stock or aftermarket alarm

vaughnc

have autozone test the battery

dr0x

Stupid question... how do you set the factory alarm? The little light on mine blinks but I cant get the alarm to trigger.

sublimeracing

Okay the battery doesn't lose the charge as quickly as I thought it did. The time when I was pumping gas I left my parking lights on but car was only off for about 5 min and the car almost didn't start. Tonight I had eveything off while pumping gas and it started fine. So the power drain takes minimum an hour. I don't see why the alarm would have anything to do w/ a bad/weak battery . If it was the battery wouldn't it do it all the time. The battery is less than 1 year old.

sublimeracing

dr0x, are you talking about setting the alarm off? If you set the alarm it will blink evey few seconds. The way I tested mine is roll the window down and set the alarm. Unlock the door from the inside and open it. The alarm will go off.

dr0x

Gonna go try that

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

LOL.... sounds like a punch line to a Blonde joke.

When the alarm is not armed, the door lock switch's are grounding (circuited to negative power). To set the alarm, you have to remove these ground connections. This is what is happening when you lock both doors by design.

Another name for a battery drain is constant grounding. For example, when you turn on a light you have connected the positive to ground. Leave your dome light on long enough, you'll end up with a dead battery.

So, in theory....if your CPU (where the alarm circuitry is located) that connects to the door lock switchs is REALLY messed up, the ground from the door lock switch's could be your battery drain. But, seriously doubt that is your problem.

In fact, I'd expect that your battery would drain FASTER with it armed as the alarm is now drawing current to operate.

Cronological age of the battery has no bearing on its life for holding a charge. My money is betting you simply have a bad battery or, at the least, dirty battery post connections keeping your alternator from properly recharging your battery.

sublimeracing

I replaced the connections about a month ago. The problem is that the battery won't drain at all w/ the alarm set. I left it sitting for 2 days w/ it set and nothing happened it was fine. Another time I left it sitting at my gf's place unarmed for about 3 hours and it drained almost completely. I'm gonna get my battery tested today.

sublimeracing

anyone????

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

is a catholic priest to preform an exorcism. Just keep small children away. It could get ugly.

sublimeracing

Thats funny.

Anyway, I got the battery checked out and its fine... A friend of mine who works at discount auto parts checked it and said the only way I could find it is let the car sit w/ the alarm not set and see how many amps are being drained from the battery, then go through my fuse panel w/ a volt meter and see whats draining all the power... Thats gonna suck but I guess thats all I can do.

Icemark

if the battery is good (which is doubtful if the battery has been drained more than a half dozen time), then yes a current test with a digital multi-meter is the way to test and find out what the issue is.

You should not have above 70mA draw with everything off in the car and realisticly it should be around 50mA to 60mA.

Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

Just go buy an aftermarket alarm and ditch the stocker at it's plug. It' a horrible alarm anyway, and w/ an aftermarket system, you can have keyless entry