HELP - Almost all my warning lights are stuck ON!
12-03-02, 05:42 PM
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HELP - Almost all my warning lights are stuck ON!
I tried a search for this but couldn't find what I'm looking for... I did find why my clock isn't working... but here's my other problem... ('86 GX)
All of my warning lights are stuck on except the seatbelt and emergency brake lights... is this a fuse? If so which one. If not, does it relate to the clock problem? The clock was busted for a while, but the warning light problem just happened today!
Any comments would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
All of my warning lights are stuck on except the seatbelt and emergency brake lights... is this a fuse? If so which one. If not, does it relate to the clock problem? The clock was busted for a while, but the warning light problem just happened today!
Any comments would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
12-03-02, 05:54 PM
#3
All warning lights with the exception of the Emergency Brake and Seatbelt?
Maybe those bulbs are burnt out and your charging system Is toast. Happen to me. Alternator Belt snapped, along the highway, all the lights lite up except Emergency Brake light. Thats when I thought "tighter Is better". Turned out a belt for the Alternator was needed and a new bulb for the E.B. Done.
Maybe those bulbs are burnt out and your charging system Is toast. Happen to me. Alternator Belt snapped, along the highway, all the lights lite up except Emergency Brake light. Thats when I thought "tighter Is better". Turned out a belt for the Alternator was needed and a new bulb for the E.B. Done.
12-03-02, 06:07 PM
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Originally posted by silverrotor
All warning lights with the exception of the Emergency Brake and Seatbelt?
... "tighter Is better". Turned out a belt for the Alternator was needed and a new bulb for the E.B. Done.
All warning lights with the exception of the Emergency Brake and Seatbelt?
... "tighter Is better". Turned out a belt for the Alternator was needed and a new bulb for the E.B. Done.
12-04-02, 01:17 PM
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UPDATE*** Took the car to the Mazda dealership this morning... they tell me it's the alternator that is shot. Okay, I can believe that, since I had to boost the car two times since it happened. What seems really funny to me is that this all happened within days of a regular dealership tune-up... IS THIS FISHY?!? (The alternator belt was fine)
A new alternator installed will cost me $370 CDN... is this reasonable?!?
A new alternator installed will cost me $370 CDN... is this reasonable?!?
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12-04-02, 03:37 PM
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Alright... new update... they found a locally rebuilt alternator for $170CDN... (+labor) It's in and they're letting run to make sure it's charging okay.
I'm still curious if this has anything to do with a #$^%ed up tune-up.
ALSO... could the fact that I'm running two amplifiers directly off the battery have anything to do with this?... more strain on the alternator??
Thx.
I'm still curious if this has anything to do with a #$^%ed up tune-up.
ALSO... could the fact that I'm running two amplifiers directly off the battery have anything to do with this?... more strain on the alternator??
Thx.
12-04-02, 04:07 PM
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Alternator feeds the battery. It won't help.
It is more strain on your electrical system. Just be sure to have a lot of good grounds, and a re-wired FD alternator would've been a better choice.
It is more strain on your electrical system. Just be sure to have a lot of good grounds, and a re-wired FD alternator would've been a better choice.
12-04-02, 04:21 PM
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True, but the battery is harder to charge when there is too much stuff hooked off of it, as opposed to running things from alternator; at least an amp that you probably wouldn't want to run while car is turned off anyways
12-04-02, 04:29 PM
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It's harder to charge when there's too much stuff hooked to it??? You're supplying amperage to the things attached to the battery... durrr.
I've NEVER heard of ANYONE running something from an alternator. And before you say you have a friend running an amp off of one... Alma Gates runs 4 Ohio Generator Alternators, ALL to batterys (and an asston of them). She has 42 1000watt amps, and has held dozens of records through the years.
Beside the point, BOOMER, you should have bought a used FD alternator, it would've been better for you application.
I've NEVER heard of ANYONE running something from an alternator. And before you say you have a friend running an amp off of one... Alma Gates runs 4 Ohio Generator Alternators, ALL to batterys (and an asston of them). She has 42 1000watt amps, and has held dozens of records through the years.
Beside the point, BOOMER, you should have bought a used FD alternator, it would've been better for you application.
12-04-02, 05:14 PM
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**** that BOOMER you should of installed that yourself in addition to buying one used cheaper
Amps KILL the alternator/batterys i know cuz two of my buddys had systems in there 7's and there alternators and batterys were always going bad. You know if you want to run amps make sure to get capacitors (cylindricle looking devices seen in most cars with amps to not drain your car battery normaly known as "Caps" there around 100 or so) Good luck!!
Amps KILL the alternator/batterys i know cuz two of my buddys had systems in there 7's and there alternators and batterys were always going bad. You know if you want to run amps make sure to get capacitors (cylindricle looking devices seen in most cars with amps to not drain your car battery normaly known as "Caps" there around 100 or so) Good luck!!
12-04-02, 05:23 PM
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Capacitors don't really do that much. Sure they fill in the gaps where your electrical system can't put out immediate power, but as soon as they're discharged (whoich they shortly will be) they're just another drain on the electrical system.
12-04-02, 06:44 PM
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Just picked up the car...
Now here's another question - The car's running REALLY smooth. There was a slight (how do I explain this) 'shudder' in the idle... even after the tune up... Could a bad alternator have that 'shuddering' affect on the idle???
RylAssasin - I wish I had the know how/tools to do it myself... as well as the time... I work way too much... and I need the car to get back and forth between jobs...
Now here's another question - The car's running REALLY smooth. There was a slight (how do I explain this) 'shudder' in the idle... even after the tune up... Could a bad alternator have that 'shuddering' affect on the idle???
RylAssasin - I wish I had the know how/tools to do it myself... as well as the time... I work way too much... and I need the car to get back and forth between jobs...
12-05-02, 08:11 AM
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Download the free FSM from www.fcs3.org
12-05-02, 08:12 AM
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Oh, and why couldn't you just loosen the belt to the point of it falling off, remove the alternator, put the new one on, and re-install the belt? No need to remover anything but the alternator. (slipped my mind for a few... seconds)
12-05-02, 10:22 AM
#22
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Originally posted by RylAssassin
You know if you want to run amps make sure to get capacitors (cylindricle looking devices seen in most cars with amps to not drain your car battery normaly known as "Caps" there around 100 or so) Good luck!!
You know if you want to run amps make sure to get capacitors (cylindricle looking devices seen in most cars with amps to not drain your car battery normaly known as "Caps" there around 100 or so) Good luck!!
12-06-02, 01:57 PM
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Liquid, here is some info from a couple different sites
"The purpose of the charging system is to provide the electrical energy needed to charge the battery and to power all the electrical components and systems on the automobile. When the engine is not running, the battery provides this electrical energy. When the engine is running, the charging system takes over. "
"If the power system appears to be working correctly, you may need to upgrade your alternator to handle the large current demands of your sound system. If you are always listening to your stereo at a fairly high volume (assume your amp is drawing 20A), and you use the heater, headlights, heated rear screen etc. you can get to the point when the alternator can no longer provide enough current to effectively supply the car and charge the main battery. So the battery is always supplementing the alternator's current supply, and slowly (but surely) dies a relatively quick death."
durrr
"The purpose of the charging system is to provide the electrical energy needed to charge the battery and to power all the electrical components and systems on the automobile. When the engine is not running, the battery provides this electrical energy. When the engine is running, the charging system takes over. "
"If the power system appears to be working correctly, you may need to upgrade your alternator to handle the large current demands of your sound system. If you are always listening to your stereo at a fairly high volume (assume your amp is drawing 20A), and you use the heater, headlights, heated rear screen etc. you can get to the point when the alternator can no longer provide enough current to effectively supply the car and charge the main battery. So the battery is always supplementing the alternator's current supply, and slowly (but surely) dies a relatively quick death."
durrr
12-06-02, 03:40 PM
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A similar warning light problem. First all my fluid levels are good. But, sometimes, the add coolant buzzer goes off for a second-or continuously until I shut the car off. Then, if it's not the coolant light, the brake light will come on. It's not the parking brake switch. But, I've got to tell you, it ALL started after putting on a used power steering pump (that still doesn't work). To avoid having the ps buzzer go off until I can fix that, I pulled the fuse. With that fuse pulled, the rear window defog light comes on (but I really don't think any power is going to the deog-the amps don't change on the gage like they do when the fuze is in and I turn the deog on.) Anygreat ideas?? Thanks.
