2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Help with 88 rx7 na

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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 03:55 PM
  #51  
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From: Texas BABY!
yes, they can be leaking and most likely are leaking and that is why it is flooding, i had the same problem until i sent my injectors out to be cleaned. It costs $60, i would do it and be done with it if i were you.,

or if your car is an NA then you can swap the pri and sec injectors and see if that fixes the no power problem (will still flood though as the sec most likely leak as well).

You just won't be able to rev (and don't try) above 3800.
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 04:09 PM
  #52  
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From: luling
so if the sec dont leak i should be able to fire it up fine...and what you mean by dont go higher than 3800 rpm's
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 04:46 PM
  #53  
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From: Texas BABY!
No, what i eamn is you will be able to tell if the pri injectors are bad or the eletronics going to them is.

The sec most likely do leak and you will still have flooding problems but you should have normal power up to 3800rpm's

You won't be able to go above 3800 rpms with just the pri though. You will need to put the sec in the pri spot at least to plug the holes.

The flooding issue will only be fixed by cleaning your injectors/replaceing them.

Or installing a $5 fuel cut switch, then you can start it when flooded and stop it from flooding in the first place.
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 05:57 PM
  #54  
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From: luling
so i can solve all my flooding problems if that is the problem by putting a valve on the fuel line....that would be sweet......but i would put it on the high pressur part or by the fuel pump.....and which hose looking at the pump is it....i think its the hight pressure one....am i right....
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 01:05 PM
  #55  
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From: luling
come on guys help me out if i cant figure out what is wrong with the car soon the place i have it at will tow it away need serious help....if i can get the clutch to work for like 5 miles it can break after that but i need it to move
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 01:44 PM
  #56  
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From: Texas BABY!
whats wrong with the clutch? Don't remember you saying anything about that?

The clutch is not a complcated system, a master and slave cyl, thats pretty much it.

Check both and make sure the fluid is full, bleed it like you would the brakes with the slave cyl. if it still won't work.

All else fails you might need a new master/slave cyl. Rarely will a clutch that is working not work at all, all of the sudden, they usually go out slowly like brakes. so you should be able to milk it for a little bit even if it in the actual clutch that is bad.
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 02:35 PM
  #57  
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From: luling
i'll try that but it was working fine 3 days ago and all of a sudden it will hold pressure pushing it in but doesnt have enough pressure to push the pedal back out and i think something is leaking cuz i'll have the clutch pushed down to the floor and with it in gear it will start moving with the pedal all the way down.....
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 02:41 PM
  #58  
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From: Texas BABY!
Yep, sounds like a leak/bad seal/needs bleeding.

I would bleeding it first, you would be surprised how a little air can effect it.

If that still dosen't work then you will need to figure out if it is the Master or slave cyl that is bad. Have a friend push on the peddel and see if you see any leaks.

Personally i think that your fluid got low and you pressed some air into the system. Fill it back up and bleed it and you shouldbe good to go. It just uses standard dot 3 brake fluid in the clutch.
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 05:06 PM
  #59  
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From: luling
no one told me swapping injectors were so fricken hard maybe easy for ppl who know what there doin but i have no clue i swapped the pri with the sec. one of the primarys were cracked at the bottom...dont think that is good....about to put everything back on and see if that helps any.......
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 07:02 PM
  #60  
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From: luling
ok so i swapped the injectors and after working on it all day....IT STILL RUNS...big improvement on the accel..but at idle it jumps from 1 to 2 fast....i think i may have a vac leak some wheres......idk if its supposed to do this but i started it up started perfect then it killed (wasn't warmed up at all) and it started right back up no problem....and my friend said my car owns me not i own the car..cuz it does what it wants when it wants.....
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 09:42 PM
  #61  
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From: Texas BABY!
It sounds like the old pri injectors were bad, i would send them out for cleaning, if that can't fix them you can get new ones for $55. I lost the link but search the net for injectors cleaning.

Also, replace your fuel filter and check your fuel pump sock to make sure it is not clogged.
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 03:05 AM
  #62  
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From: luling
when they clean them do they fix the plastic part on the bottom cuz one of the injectors are cracked and i think that was the whole problem with my car......
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 10:10 AM
  #63  
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From: Texas BABY!
http://www.accurateis.com/

That is the place that did mine, got them back fast too.

They said that they can fix pretty much anything and if they can't you can buy another one for $55. Call them and ask them.

But yes this could very well be your problem.
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 12:10 PM
  #64  
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From: luling
yeah will more than likely have to get new injectors cuz the o rings on them are shot and leaking fuel out of them.....i have another question....what would cause the car to just kill it wont idle at all its koo till it drops below 1k rpms then it drops to like 200 then kills within seconds.....
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 10:49 PM
  #65  
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From: Texas BABY!
try sending them in for cleaning, $65 beats $200+ for new injectors. They can fix pretty much anything and the o-rings are included.

As for the dying, not sure, does it only do it when cold? Mine also does this when it is cold since my Thermowax is disabled (going to fix it).
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 01:46 AM
  #66  
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From: luling
wtf is that
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 01:08 PM
  #67  
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From: Texas BABY!
is what?

The thermowax? It is what keeps the cars idle high until it is watrmed up, until you know if it being cold is the problem don't worry about it.

First just get it hot and see if it still won't idle.

Also, get those injectors cleaned, that could also be the problem.
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Old Sep 5, 2008 | 01:28 PM
  #68  
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From: luling
ok i still have problems with it .....any more ideas of what could be wrong with my baby......still hard to start when warmed up and or will not start after i shut it off......
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Old Sep 5, 2008 | 02:09 PM
  #69  
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From: Texas BABY!
have you done a compression test on it? I am thinking it might just be a worn engine (these are classic signs of one).

Run a compression test and see where you stand. Then you can troubl shoot some more.
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 08:33 PM
  #70  
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From: luling
what should it be at?
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 08:43 PM
  #71  
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From: Texas BABY!
Search for compression test, you have to do rotary compression tests a little differnt.

Though finall pressure should be above 80psi, 90+ is good condition, 100+ is great.
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Old Sep 8, 2008 | 08:14 AM
  #72  
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From: luling
how is it different...like what would i have to do different?
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Old Sep 8, 2008 | 10:08 AM
  #73  
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From: Texas BABY!
As i said, search, here is a thread i found in the first page of searching for "compression"

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=compression

And here is a link from that thread explaining it:

http://rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen...ion_check.html
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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 12:48 PM
  #74  
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From: luling
yeah the apex seals were shot to **** so i got rid of it and got an mr2 thanks guys....i'll still be on here to help ppl with there **** like yall did to me thanks alot for the help
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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 01:07 PM
  #75  
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From: Texas BABY!
I also just got an MR2, now too just get it running....
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