HELP!!! 4 nipples and I don't know where they go????
#1
HELP!!! 4 nipples and I don't know where they go????
HELP*There are four nipple ports and I don't know where they belong*HELP
Nipple port #1 Port on the rear iron that is facing up (I believe this goes to the nipple on the radiator)
Nipple Port #2 Port on the radiator (lower part)
Nipple Port #3 Port on the water pump that has a in-line (huge hose connects to it) but then there is another nipple port (the port that is right under the LIM).
Nipple Port #4 Port (Brass material) located on the firewall (believe it's for the heater core.
What is the best way to plug up these ports? (vacuum caps with sealant, metal plugs, hose to hose "looping", or JB weld shut.
Are some of these Ports necessary to have?
Nipple port #1 Port on the rear iron that is facing up (I believe this goes to the nipple on the radiator)
Nipple Port #2 Port on the radiator (lower part)
Nipple Port #3 Port on the water pump that has a in-line (huge hose connects to it) but then there is another nipple port (the port that is right under the LIM).
Nipple Port #4 Port (Brass material) located on the firewall (believe it's for the heater core.
What is the best way to plug up these ports? (vacuum caps with sealant, metal plugs, hose to hose "looping", or JB weld shut.
Are some of these Ports necessary to have?
#2
Engine, Not Motor
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Um, these are not vacuum nipples. They are coolant ports.
#1 is the coolant nipple on the rear iron which feeds the BAC/intake.
#2 is the heater return.
#3 the turbo coolant return.
#4 is the passenger side heater core connection.
The Factory Service Manual can be found in the FAQ For FC thread. It contains all this information and more, and is an essential tool for any sort of service work that needs to be performed on these cars.
Additionally, the Haynes service manual for the 1986 thru 1991 RX-7 (both turbo and NA) can be found at most local auto parts stores or purchased from any good bookstore (ISBN number 1 56392 007 7). It is only about $25 and is a great quick reference for things like this. Not only does it contain most of the information in the FSM condensed into an easy to read format, but it includes full wiring diagrams as well.
These manuals will answer 99% of service related questions for the car and if you intend to do your own repair work, you will need at least one of them. Preferably both, since the FSM is a free download.
#1 is the coolant nipple on the rear iron which feeds the BAC/intake.
#2 is the heater return.
#3 the turbo coolant return.
#4 is the passenger side heater core connection.
The Factory Service Manual can be found in the FAQ For FC thread. It contains all this information and more, and is an essential tool for any sort of service work that needs to be performed on these cars.
Additionally, the Haynes service manual for the 1986 thru 1991 RX-7 (both turbo and NA) can be found at most local auto parts stores or purchased from any good bookstore (ISBN number 1 56392 007 7). It is only about $25 and is a great quick reference for things like this. Not only does it contain most of the information in the FSM condensed into an easy to read format, but it includes full wiring diagrams as well.
These manuals will answer 99% of service related questions for the car and if you intend to do your own repair work, you will need at least one of them. Preferably both, since the FSM is a free download.
#3
Thanks for the help Aaron and I will invest some money in a manual for my car.
FYI: The only time I mentioned "vacuum" was when I was referring to the caps you can buy at the local Autozone that are meant for Vacuum port block off. Which was one of my questions (the last couple of questions at the very bottom of my original post). I already knew that they were coolant ports due to the obvious corrosion on the nipples, except for the one on the radiator (too obvious).
I'm just going to run a hose to connect coolant port #4 to Coolant port #2 and then Block off Ports 1 and 3.
I plan on using JB weld (putty kind) and stuff the ports, Has anyone done this?
FYI: The only time I mentioned "vacuum" was when I was referring to the caps you can buy at the local Autozone that are meant for Vacuum port block off. Which was one of my questions (the last couple of questions at the very bottom of my original post). I already knew that they were coolant ports due to the obvious corrosion on the nipples, except for the one on the radiator (too obvious).
I'm just going to run a hose to connect coolant port #4 to Coolant port #2 and then Block off Ports 1 and 3.
I plan on using JB weld (putty kind) and stuff the ports, Has anyone done this?
#5
Engine, Not Motor
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I just used "vacuum" for others who may be viewing the thread.
That heater line looks like it is designed to fail. The stock line ran along the firewall and down on the frame rail to the rad. It is a metal pipe with rubber hoses used to connect to the nipples.
If you don't have any of the cold start stuff on the throttle body then there is no need to run coolant to it. I would recommend putting the BAC back though since it is not an emissions component and there are no advantages to removing it.
That heater line looks like it is designed to fail. The stock line ran along the firewall and down on the frame rail to the rad. It is a metal pipe with rubber hoses used to connect to the nipples.
If you don't have any of the cold start stuff on the throttle body then there is no need to run coolant to it. I would recommend putting the BAC back though since it is not an emissions component and there are no advantages to removing it.
#7
I was thinking the same thing, I did have the hose where the metal tubing for the heater core was routed at, but that too was close to the turbo and downpipe. Even if the turbo was blanketed and the downpipe wrapped I still think its a recipe for disaster. I'll search for the original metal tubing.
I took the BAC off due to it being corroded to hell, the bolts that hold it together are seized and it just plain out looks horrible (not that I can say my engine is any better), but I planned on cleaning it up and putting it back on.
Does the BAC help with fuel economy?
Do you know anybody that is selling one of those heater return line tubing?
I took the BAC off due to it being corroded to hell, the bolts that hold it together are seized and it just plain out looks horrible (not that I can say my engine is any better), but I planned on cleaning it up and putting it back on.
Does the BAC help with fuel economy?
Do you know anybody that is selling one of those heater return line tubing?
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#8
Rotary Freak
The nipple in the very first picture gets a hose that connects to the bottom of the throttle body. Comprende?
BAC helps with any kind of start whether hot or cold. Goes full open if the key is HELD to Start. Helps maintain a steady idle even if an electrical load is put on the engine etc.
Factory serivice manuals are found in the FAQ thread on this site (links to the FSM that is).
BAC helps with any kind of start whether hot or cold. Goes full open if the key is HELD to Start. Helps maintain a steady idle even if an electrical load is put on the engine etc.
Factory serivice manuals are found in the FAQ thread on this site (links to the FSM that is).
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