Hello New Here...............
06-10-02, 10:47 AM
#1
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Hello New Here...............
HI GUYS
just got my first rx7. last monday.
i've been checking out the forum and the old post to see what i need to do to my car. lots of great stuff.
my car 88 se, runs pretty good. changed all struts.
i've been going over the car tighting stuff and just looking for broken crap. took out the center console, it was cracked. also took out the panel on the passenger side that held the speaker, it was broken.
i plan to strip the inside and put a cage and race seat.
as i learn the car and how to go fast i'll make changes to it. right now just need to make it reliable and get some track time. plan for the car is pure race car.
i hope to drive it on the street as long as i can but as soon as i change the exhaust i'll probably have to put it on a trailer to get to the track.
so i now start my quest for lighter and faster, but i will be racing against guys in production class so i don't need to do tons of stuff, just wnat to drive fast as i can on the track.
so my first question for you guys since i need an exhaust.
what do you recomend for track only and what about the emmision crap?
as i get money to play with i'll do springs and some decent struts as well as brakes.
but for now i'll slowly change and upgrade just what i need to. i've noticed most of you run your cars on the street and i'm only driving mine on the street to get used to it, once it's not street legal i'll put it on the trailer.
anyway i look forward to being part of the rx7 world as i've always loved the car and wanted one
thanks
robert
just got my first rx7. last monday.
i've been checking out the forum and the old post to see what i need to do to my car. lots of great stuff.
my car 88 se, runs pretty good. changed all struts.
i've been going over the car tighting stuff and just looking for broken crap. took out the center console, it was cracked. also took out the panel on the passenger side that held the speaker, it was broken.
i plan to strip the inside and put a cage and race seat.
as i learn the car and how to go fast i'll make changes to it. right now just need to make it reliable and get some track time. plan for the car is pure race car.
i hope to drive it on the street as long as i can but as soon as i change the exhaust i'll probably have to put it on a trailer to get to the track.
so i now start my quest for lighter and faster, but i will be racing against guys in production class so i don't need to do tons of stuff, just wnat to drive fast as i can on the track.
so my first question for you guys since i need an exhaust.
what do you recomend for track only and what about the emmision crap?
as i get money to play with i'll do springs and some decent struts as well as brakes.
but for now i'll slowly change and upgrade just what i need to. i've noticed most of you run your cars on the street and i'm only driving mine on the street to get used to it, once it's not street legal i'll put it on the trailer.
anyway i look forward to being part of the rx7 world as i've always loved the car and wanted one
thanks
robert
06-10-02, 10:50 AM
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Welcome!! It is always cool to see guys with track FC's!! I would HIGHLY reccomend chatting with a member named Silkworm. He has a ITA race RX-7, and knows the ropes!! Good luck and happy rotoring!!
06-10-02, 05:19 PM
#3
knowledge junkie
Most of the competitive track cars are tuned to make all of their 220-240hp between 5-8K rpms. Then again I've heard of these guys driving their cars as dailys as well which goes to show anything can be streetable 
SCCA might have a "lightly" modded class as well if you don't want to hack & port your car to hell. That might be a good comprimise between streetability & racing.
Emissions may be of a concern because you need the airpump and primary/main catalytic converter to pass. Other than that the N1 exhaust should do well for you.
SCCA might have a "lightly" modded class as well if you don't want to hack & port your car to hell. That might be a good comprimise between streetability & racing.
Emissions may be of a concern because you need the airpump and primary/main catalytic converter to pass. Other than that the N1 exhaust should do well for you.
06-10-02, 06:34 PM
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Robert,
Welcome. Glad to see another budding racer here, let's see what I can do to encourage you
First, since your goal is actual racing (and by racing, I assume you refer to circuit or road racing, not auto-x), I'd pick a class to prepare for. You have a few options with an 88 SE.
1. Improved Touring S - Your basic, street car with a cage and some suspension modifications. No engine mods other than smog removal and a few other small things. This is the class my 88 is prepared for.
2. E-Production - Production isn't quite what it sounds like. These are highly modified cars, with fender flares, street port motors, big dollar suspensions, etc, on a standard street car tub. Slicks and fuel cell, etc.
3. GT2/3 - Tubeframe cars, bridge ports, big power, big dollars. Stay away.
Even if you're not going racing this year, it helps to know which class you're preparing for. Go get an SCCA GCR (General Competition Rules) manual http://www.scca.org. This will give you the limits on what you can prepare your car to, as well as how you have to design your cage, etc.
Good decision taking it out on track before pledging yourself to door to door racing. Since you asked about exhausts, most of the street ones are way too expensive. But most are also stainless steel, and designed to last a long time. Race cars dont' necessarily require that I'm running custom 2 1/2" mild steel, mandrel bent tubing to a Magnaflow straight thru muffler. Nothing fancy. Cost me 300 bucks (which was high, but I like the guy, he helps out a lot), and a Racing Beat Header.
Smog.. Well, dunno on the rules in your area, but all of teh classes above are smogless.. You're not required to run smog gear in any of them. So, cats go bye bye, Air Control Valve, 2nd set of throttle body plates, air pump, EGR, all of the smog solenoids (should keep the fuel pressure solenoid for now, OK to remove after you're a track only car). The water lines to the throttle body can be plugged, no requirement for that either.
Don't feel like you have to rebuild the engine or anything, a lot of guys are making big HP numbers (for an NA anyway) using 100K mile junkyard motors. A good shifting tranny is a definite plus though. Also don't feel like you need an 89-91 motor, it does produce more power, but hold off until you're really racing a while, don't bite off more than you can chew.
Replace things like the pulsation dampner, the heater hose lines (required for Improved Touring, believe it or not), oil cooler lines, and PS lines if you're keeping PS.
For improved touring, remove the entire interior, EXCEPT the door panels and dash. All the carpeting, plastic bits, etc. can go, as well as the tar undercoating. If you keep a passenger seat, it has to be a stock passenger seat, but you can run any kind of drivers seat you want. Go ahead and do this now, you'll need it all stripped before you get the cage put in anyway. Plus it's kinda fun to watch the car grow on it's springs
For the cage, again assuming IT rules, a bolt in cage is allowed, but I don't recommend that. 2nd gens are small (ok, maybe not as small as 1st gens), and head room is at a premium. Remember your head needs a lot more room when you have a helmet on, and have padding on the roll bars. If you want design help with the cage, look me up.
Anyway, that's my initial run down, have fun, and good luck!
PaulC
Welcome. Glad to see another budding racer here, let's see what I can do to encourage you
First, since your goal is actual racing (and by racing, I assume you refer to circuit or road racing, not auto-x), I'd pick a class to prepare for. You have a few options with an 88 SE.
1. Improved Touring S - Your basic, street car with a cage and some suspension modifications. No engine mods other than smog removal and a few other small things. This is the class my 88 is prepared for.
2. E-Production - Production isn't quite what it sounds like. These are highly modified cars, with fender flares, street port motors, big dollar suspensions, etc, on a standard street car tub. Slicks and fuel cell, etc.
3. GT2/3 - Tubeframe cars, bridge ports, big power, big dollars. Stay away.
Even if you're not going racing this year, it helps to know which class you're preparing for. Go get an SCCA GCR (General Competition Rules) manual http://www.scca.org. This will give you the limits on what you can prepare your car to, as well as how you have to design your cage, etc.
Good decision taking it out on track before pledging yourself to door to door racing. Since you asked about exhausts, most of the street ones are way too expensive. But most are also stainless steel, and designed to last a long time. Race cars dont' necessarily require that
I'm running custom 2 1/2" mild steel, mandrel bent tubing to a Magnaflow straight thru muffler. Nothing fancy. Cost me 300 bucks (which was high, but I like the guy, he helps out a lot), and a Racing Beat Header.Smog.. Well, dunno on the rules in your area, but all of teh classes above are smogless.. You're not required to run smog gear in any of them. So, cats go bye bye, Air Control Valve, 2nd set of throttle body plates, air pump, EGR, all of the smog solenoids (should keep the fuel pressure solenoid for now, OK to remove after you're a track only car). The water lines to the throttle body can be plugged, no requirement for that either.
Don't feel like you have to rebuild the engine or anything, a lot of guys are making big HP numbers (for an NA anyway) using 100K mile junkyard motors. A good shifting tranny is a definite plus though. Also don't feel like you need an 89-91 motor, it does produce more power, but hold off until you're really racing a while, don't bite off more than you can chew.
Replace things like the pulsation dampner, the heater hose lines (required for Improved Touring, believe it or not), oil cooler lines, and PS lines if you're keeping PS.
For improved touring, remove the entire interior, EXCEPT the door panels and dash. All the carpeting, plastic bits, etc. can go, as well as the tar undercoating. If you keep a passenger seat, it has to be a stock passenger seat, but you can run any kind of drivers seat you want. Go ahead and do this now, you'll need it all stripped before you get the cage put in anyway. Plus it's kinda fun to watch the car grow on it's springs
For the cage, again assuming IT rules, a bolt in cage is allowed, but I don't recommend that. 2nd gens are small (ok, maybe not as small as 1st gens), and head room is at a premium. Remember your head needs a lot more room when you have a helmet on, and have padding on the roll bars. If you want design help with the cage, look me up.
Anyway, that's my initial run down, have fun, and good luck!
PaulC
06-10-02, 07:15 PM
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hi slikworm please forgive my ignorance, but you mentioned the removal of the second throttle body plates, what are you talking about? the two bottom butterflies? what region are you part of? we compete in pro/club rally in SeDiv
Josh
Josh
06-10-02, 07:20 PM
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Well, it's really the top On the FC throttle body, there's two sets of throttle plates. Since the thermowax (aka Choke) operates those plates, it's IT legal to remove.
I'm in San Francisco Region, but I will be competeting in NASA SF region next year.
PaulC
On the FC throttle body, there's two sets of throttle plates. Since the thermowax (aka Choke) operates those plates, it's IT legal to remove.I'm in San Francisco Region, but I will be competeting in NASA SF region next year.
PaulC
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06-11-02, 08:48 AM
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THANKS GUYS
thanks to all who responded.
silkworm sounds like your the goto guy because i'm going the same route as you. yes i'm talking about road racing not auto x. i've got 26 years of off road racing , mx and dirt ovals with atv's and observed trials. i would love to dream about fancy million dollar cars for the track but my wife , house note , car , truck, honey do list all stand in the way,lol. but really just a working class guy who always dreamed of racing cars. the rx7 seemed the best way for me since i've always liked the look and sound.
i'll drive the car stock and only change stuff that absolutly needs to be changed. safty first and speed second.
so my next problem / question the car runs pretty good no rocket but ok........ is it normal for the oil pressure gauge to drop while at idle? i've tried a search but did'nt have much luck or time as i was at work.
being new to car racing and tuning i still have to figure out what you guys or talking about. i.e. abreviatiions just don't get it, lol
thanks
robert
silkworm sounds like your the goto guy because i'm going the same route as you. yes i'm talking about road racing not auto x. i've got 26 years of off road racing , mx and dirt ovals with atv's and observed trials. i would love to dream about fancy million dollar cars for the track but my wife , house note , car , truck, honey do list all stand in the way,lol. but really just a working class guy who always dreamed of racing cars. the rx7 seemed the best way for me since i've always liked the look and sound.
i'll drive the car stock and only change stuff that absolutly needs to be changed. safty first and speed second.
so my next problem / question the car runs pretty good no rocket but ok........ is it normal for the oil pressure gauge to drop while at idle? i've tried a search but did'nt have much luck or time as i was at work.
being new to car racing and tuning i still have to figure out what you guys or talking about. i.e. abreviatiions just don't get it, lol
thanks
robert
06-11-02, 09:20 AM
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Josh,
This is most commonly referred to as the TB mod. Search on that for more info. No, it won't affect the computer at all, the only big side effect will be difficulties with idle while cold, and in my case, having to adjust the throttle stops.
Robert,
I don't trust the stock oil pressure guage. The sender is usually flaky, and relies on having a grounded resister block to properly read the pressure. Racing Beat sells an adapter plate the sandwiches between the oil filter pedestal and the block, and allows you to thread in oil temp and oil pressure senders. I recommend doing so.
PaulC
This is most commonly referred to as the TB mod. Search on that for more info. No, it won't affect the computer at all, the only big side effect will be difficulties with idle while cold, and in my case, having to adjust the throttle stops.
Robert,
I don't trust the stock oil pressure guage. The sender is usually flaky, and relies on having a grounded resister block to properly read the pressure. Racing Beat sells an adapter plate the sandwiches between the oil filter pedestal and the block, and allows you to thread in oil temp and oil pressure senders. I recommend doing so.
PaulC