Hi everyone, I just purchased an 87 GXL (N/A), for relatively cheap but of course it has problems thus the cheap part. Just an introduction I own two other cars. A '92 BMW 318is and an '86 Toyota MR2. I'm a mechanic by trade but I don't work on rotary engines which is why I'm posting my questions here.

Main problem I'm having right now is loss of coolant. When I first got the car there was a lot of coolant burning through the exhaust, but strangely that went away. But now if I fill the coolant system up totally (bleeding and everything) after about a few minutes of idling, coolant starts coming out of the reservoir (which happens to be a oil quart bottle zip tied under the car with the overflow tube going into it, going to replace that soon), after a few minutes of overflowing it stops, and after checking how much coolant was lost it's really not much. But if I take it out after about 10 miles of driving the ADD COOLANT light comes on and starts buzzing like mad. I check the level again and it's gone down, not by much maybe half a quart to a quart I'd have to say. I know for a fact that the coolant level sensor is leaking around the sides a bit but not that much, and after pressure testing it there are no other visible leaks. Where are the last few places that I can be losing coolant through?

Also my coolant temperature gauge never goes above 1/4 way is that normal cause on my other cars and most all cars that I've seen, when it hits normal operating temperature the gauge reads half way.

I've also had problems finding CAI or even Short Rams for this car, maybe because of the way the stock intake system is routed. Anyone have any info on this?

That's about all the problems that have come up that I can't figure out so far. I'll post about other problems that arise. But so far I'd have to say I love this car!

Thanks for the help guys and ladies if there are any.

 

Dude, we got same problem. Its a bad coolant seal in your engine. The only way to fix it, is to replace it with new one, but u gotta teardown ur engine, that way u can rebuilt it. well, since ur a mechanic u can problly rebuilt it yourself, just buy haynes manual or get a dvd from atkins rotary both are a good help. then buy the rebuilt kit, which includes apex seal and coolant seal. then thats it.

i agree with you, buying a cheap car... problems comes with the package. anyway, thats all i can say. if you live in socal, there are a lot of rotary shops out there. try to do a search on the thread on rotary shops. good luck!

to be honest with you.. there is no manufactured CAI for S4 - S5. all u need is to modify it.. a lot of people here have done that. there are write ups for modifyng CAI, just search for the thread.

 

yep, sounds like a coolant seal. its internal and means complete teardown of your engine. if you pressure tested your cooling system i would imagine this is your problem.
as for ram intakes...
www.rx7.com
my favorite, i buy everything from there, and mazdatrix.com and atkinsrotary.com
also, check the ads at the top of the forum page, lots of good stuff there too.

 

Ljk619, if u really want ur car to perform great, u can streetport it. Runs like a turbo 7.

 

A stuck turbo 7, maybe. It does give you noticably more top end. My s4 motor had good power to 7500 rpm with a large street port an a streetable exhaust port.

 

don't forget to redline her daily.....after you fix it I guess....it helps keep the um....I'm new hold on....secondary injectors and/or the auxilary ports from freezing up on you.

how'd I do guys?

 

You gotta be kidding me.

BTW, since you're a mechanic, do you have a coolant pressure tester?
Pressurize the cooling system and see if you can spot the leak dripping on the floor.
If you don't, it's most likely inside the engine.

Also, pull the spark plugs.
If the coolant leak is prior to the spark plugs, then it'll be obvious - the spark plugs will come out really clean; normal plugs have black soot / crud on them.


-Ted

 

Ok I know this reply is half month too late, works been swamped, but I finally pulled the plugs out and they have normal wear on them. The normal carbon build up is still on them and there are no signs of coolant burning within the chambers. Unfortunately to my knowledge of engine designs there's going to be little to no chance that coolant is going to burn up anywhere after the exhaust ports, meaning coolant is definitely getting inside somehow, but maybe not a significant amount.

So, is there ANY OTHER place that coolant can get in except the internal seals? I'm willing to try just about anything before I have to resort to rebuilding the engine. Most gaskets, O rings, seals, you name it I can get very inexpensively (got to love wholesale pricing ). And labor is free. Please please tell me that there are other places that coolant can get in!

Lastly I live fairly close to Mazdatrix. Has anyone had experience with them as far as engine rebuilds go? How is the overall quality of their work? Reason being, yes I probably could do the rebuild myself but honestly I don't want to rebuild a rotary. Conventional engines with pistons no problem, unconventional Wankel ehhhh....no thank you.