Heater realated question!
07-02-03, 06:57 AM
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Heater realated question!
Hi all,
i recently had time to test my heater. Found out that all the motors work exceot the one that controls the temprature. The air mix motor as it's called in the manual! Question is can i use another mazda air mix motor in place of the one that has died?
Also could this be a cold solder joint thing? But everything else works fine!
i recently had time to test my heater. Found out that all the motors work exceot the one that controls the temprature. The air mix motor as it's called in the manual! Question is can i use another mazda air mix motor in place of the one that has died?
Also could this be a cold solder joint thing? But everything else works fine!
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07-02-03, 08:26 AM
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Re: Heater realated question!
Originally posted by [YMMIJ]
Also could this be a cold solder joint thing? But everything else works fine!
Also could this be a cold solder joint thing? But everything else works fine!
07-02-03, 08:28 AM
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I think if it's just the "air-mix motor" then the logicon solder is probably ok. You might wanna try soldering the logicon anyway, though, cause it's a pain to get at that little motor! Unless ya feel like ripping off your dash...
12-05-03, 08:38 PM
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umm... you guys know how to fix this... i guess my heater works but barely and it only works when the car is in gear it stops working when its in neutral... what can i do? help me and thanx
12-05-03, 08:56 PM
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i think is just air but in the highway you can feel the heat... i dont have any a/c by the way but i have all new heater hoses since i did a rebuild plus it did this when i got the car about a year ago with the a/c still on the car.
I could care less but i need it for defrosting all my windows are filled with smoke i cant see ****.
I could care less but i need it for defrosting all my windows are filled with smoke i cant see ****.
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12-05-03, 10:56 PM
#8
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Re: Heater realated question!
Originally posted by [YMMIJ]
Hi all,
i recently had time to test my heater. Found out that all the motors work exceot the one that controls the temprature. The air mix motor as it's called in the manual! Question is can i use another mazda air mix motor in place of the one that has died?
Also could this be a cold solder joint thing? But everything else works fine!
Hi all,
i recently had time to test my heater. Found out that all the motors work exceot the one that controls the temprature. The air mix motor as it's called in the manual! Question is can i use another mazda air mix motor in place of the one that has died?
Also could this be a cold solder joint thing? But everything else works fine!
In case you didn't search... this is how to test (again):
So, there are three plugs at the Logicon. Two that plug directly into the back, and the third plug that runs off into the dash and plugs in above the air mix motor in the dash.
We are going to test a couple wires at that third harness.
So unplug that third harness. You now have a car side and a Logicon side. We are going to be testing on the car side of the plug, not the Logicon side.
We need to find the Green w/White stripe wire and the solid Yellow wire in that plug.
Putting your multi-meter on the wires, check for resistance (ohm). Resistance should be between 17 and 21 ohms at 70 degrees F.
If that checks out fine, then jumper 12 volts onto the Yellow wire, and ground onto the Green/white. The motor should move all the way over to the hot position.
If you reverse the two, (12volts on the Grn/wht and ground on the yellow) the motor should move all the way over to the cold position.
You only want to put the 12Volts on the wire until the motor gets to the hot or cold side. Remove the 12 volts after its there.
We are going to test a couple wires at that third harness.
So unplug that third harness. You now have a car side and a Logicon side. We are going to be testing on the car side of the plug, not the Logicon side.
We need to find the Green w/White stripe wire and the solid Yellow wire in that plug.
Putting your multi-meter on the wires, check for resistance (ohm). Resistance should be between 17 and 21 ohms at 70 degrees F.
If that checks out fine, then jumper 12 volts onto the Yellow wire, and ground onto the Green/white. The motor should move all the way over to the hot position.
If you reverse the two, (12volts on the Grn/wht and ground on the yellow) the motor should move all the way over to the cold position.
You only want to put the 12Volts on the wire until the motor gets to the hot or cold side. Remove the 12 volts after its there.
BTW: I do stock rebuilt Logicons on my website if you need one.
12-08-03, 09:28 AM
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Originally posted by f1blueRx7
Peru: Check / replace your thermostat and have your water pump inspected. Also make sure your heater hoses are not leaking at the firewall. I had this issue in my car.
Peru: Check / replace your thermostat and have your water pump inspected. Also make sure your heater hoses are not leaking at the firewall. I had this issue in my car.
crap... no way i mean i replaced the thermostat and got a new waterpump installed 3000 miles ago... could i have installed them wrong? this happend before too... like before the rebuild and stuff( like when i first bought the car)... could it be the motor or logicon? or is it especifically the waterpump and thermostat...? my radiatrr gets really hot sometimes... could this be a bad thermostat unit the one i bought or the waterpump.. im not taking them off it was hard to install plus i might break the gasket...
12-08-03, 09:45 AM
#10
Well, if you overheated teh car since you installed it, then yes its probably bad. The waterpump: Just check it for leaks. It will be pretty clear. You should be able to put your hand underneath it (with the engine cold) and feel for anything wet/slippery.
12-08-03, 09:55 AM
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no it doesnt have any leaks the waterpump i mean... what was wrong with yours? the thermostat seems fine i mean no leaks in the outside of it my coolant temp only goes to 20-25% all the time. how did you fix yours?
12-08-03, 09:58 AM
#12
I did something no rotary owner should ever do (even in an emergency like i was) I took it to a lousy mechanic because the heater hose burst while i was driving and he slapped a new heater hose in.... Well he broke the copper line at the firewall causing the cooling system to leak coolant all over the interior of my car. SO i capped off the heater system at the engine block with a short peice of hose and a 1/2inch socket extension. Nothing perminant cause i wanna use it again when i get a new heater core.
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