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header install gone bad?

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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 05:27 PM
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header install gone bad?

hey guys i got a hold of a rb long tube header

when i was removing the old manifold the studs threaded out of the block, not easily i might add, I thought they were cast in? and does the gasket always have to be replaced? on my honda i just kept reusing the exhaust manifold gaskets with no issues

as far as the studs go, should i reinstall them with some sort of 2 part epoxy to make sure they stay in and use some anti-seize on the threads so that in the future i can remove the nuts easily?

thanks guys much appreciated
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 05:39 PM
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Clean them thoroughly and use Loctite stud and bearing mount for the block and anti sieze for the nuts and outer threads. If the gasket isn't damaged it should be ok to re-use.
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 05:39 PM
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You should get a new gasket. They're cheap, and you don't to install the header and have to tear it all apart again because you have a leak.

Put some red threadlocker on the studs and screw them in. Put a nut on the stud, followed by a washer, followed by another nut, and tighten the outer nut. I've had a stud or two come out everytime I've taken a header off, its no biggie.
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 05:44 PM
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so you can you re-use most gaskets if their not damaged???
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 06:09 PM
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replace them . its a pain to get the manifold off in the engine bay, might as well do it right once.

Last edited by dvs71990; Jun 2, 2009 at 06:10 PM. Reason: false info
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 06:19 PM
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I've always used anti-seize on both ends of exhaust studs (along with copper nuts on the flange side), figuring that if the stud ever broke (hasn't happened yet, knock on wood) it'd be that much easier to remove the remaining stub.
Never had a stud back out yet.

Use a new gasket...cheap insurance against having to go back and redo the work you just finished.
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 08:24 PM
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Oh man...been there and done this!

1) Replace the gasket.
2) If you removed the studs from the housing...this can be very, very bad if you stripped the threads in the housing. Exercise EXTREME caution as you put the studs back in.
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 11:22 PM
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thanks alot guys for the info now i just gotta make sure the studs bottom out in the housing before i tighten them down
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 12:38 AM
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so i went to remove the olg seized studs (ya i reused them bad idea) and the top 2 snapped ah well guess its time for the easy outs

at least i got 2 new studs and teh new gasket in there so much quieter now lol
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Bwek
so i went to remove the olg seized studs (ya i reused them bad idea) and the top 2 snapped ah well guess its time for the easy outs

at least i got 2 new studs and teh new gasket in there so much quieter now lol
Use lock washers instead of loctite. They hold much better and never come loose.
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Hazard15301
You should get a new gasket. They're cheap, and you don't to install the header and have to tear it all apart again because you have a leak.

Put some red threadlocker on the studs and screw them in. Put a nut on the stud, followed by a washer, followed by another nut, and tighten the outer nut. I've had a stud or two come out everytime I've taken a header off, its no biggie.
its like 10 bucks to go buy a stud remover kit it allows you to properly install and remove studs with out damaging the threds. Much easier than all the "shade tree mechanic" ways. Good luck with easyouts on hardened steel studs....
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 08:09 PM
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so now im really fucked..... the studs that were good are pulling out of the block when i tighten them and no im not going nuts and reefing on them ive done it many times before on hondas and have had no issues and i still have 2 fucked studs on top that i cant get my drill into sigh

anyone wanna buy a mint fc?
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 09:09 PM
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I've been down this road. What worked for me was flipping the stud. Putting the manifold side in the engine lets more threads go in the hole. This allows the stud to reach new thread, and you still have enough to tighten the manifold. This has worked great for 6port BP with no leaks, nor has the stud backed out.

For the broken studs have you tried the double nut method?
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 12:29 PM
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When I stripped the threads out of a rotor housing on my FD, I used a "helicoil" kit to fix it. Drilled the hole out, re-threaded it, then put the helicoil in. This was all done with the engine out of the car, so it may be harder to do with it in the car. It was a lot of work, but the end results were worth it.
-John
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 06:31 PM
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i tryed a snap on stud extractor and it took the threads off the one stud and my drill died for some reason to remove the other one

i've used helicoils before it would be a bitch todo in car
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