DEZERTE

Im trying to copy this writeup: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...ectricfan.html
Its kevin landers Efan install where it runs all the time when your key is "on"
I can hear the relay click whenever i turn the key into the on position, but no fan...
What im wondering is what is this relay left side, right side stuff? Theres a little picture on the back of the relay that has some connections labaled on the left side, and some on the right, but is that what kevin is talking about in his writeup?
And the green 6 prong connected, I coudlnt really undstand what it was saying..Am I supposed to plug the connection in the the middle one next to the little latch?
Any help would be great.

eViLRotor

iTrader: (2)

Normally the relay pins are wired this way:

87 +12V in, usually from switched ignition
30 +12V out to e-fan
86 ground
85 to switch

NZConvertible

Do it properly. Get a thermoswitch so the fan only runs when it needs to, reducing alternator load and increasing fan motor life.

Wire it up like this:

VII

That would have to be the best easy to follow diagram I have ever seen.

ddub

Sorry to thread jack, but does anyone have any suggestions for a good thermoswitch? The last one I was running with my efan was a piece of **** and when I tried to adjust it it'd either be on all the time or would never come on, even with the most minor of tweaking. This was a black magic thermostat switch, so anyone with a better suggestion?

gotrotors?

Go to any parts store and get a wiring kit. Itll come with a thermoswitch that you put between the fins. Put the thermoswitch DIRECTLY under your upper radiator hose neck, as close to the top of the rad as possible. Itll work so perfect. Mine warms up to just over half, then cools down to 1/4 guage.

patman

iTrader: (3)

take nzconvertible's advice and do it right.

dDub, a decent thermoswitch can be found at local parts store or on ebay.
all the ones ive had worked fine... you must have just gotten a shitty one.

heres the one im using now, it is fairly nice. made by Derale.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWN%3AIT


pat

NZConvertible

To follow convention, 30 should be corrected to power and 87 to the load (e.g. fan motor). It doesn't make anydifference with 4-pin SPST relays, but it makes a big difference with similar-looking 5-pin DPST relays (a "changeover" relay), where power is switched between 87 and 87a.

eViLRotor

iTrader: (2)

Interesting. That is how my EMS diagram had it, but then I read this, so I changed it:

*edit*
...oh, I get what you are saying. The reason to do it your way is so that you can energize 87a if need be?

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

ok what fan are you guys using with this??? I'm just about to change my mind and get an electric fan so just wondering what fan I should get...............Still the one that kevin (rr) suggested? oh and nz what did you use for a light in that diagram??? just an led??

would this kit work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW

patman

iTrader: (3)

it would work, but its not a great idea. get one that is adjustable.

pat

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

gotcha, thanks

DEZERTE

Why do you say "do it right" the clutch fan runs all the time, and Kevin said that having the fan run all the time on the low setting wont harm a healthy charging system. I dont think having it run always is doing it "wrong"
He also said this:
Edit: holy crap thanks for the diagram. You always post really detailed **** when I need it, thanks a lot.
So Im going to wire it so its on when the key is "on" I'll mess with it some more and take evil rotors advice and see what happens.
Edit2: The fan was so so cheap (10 bucks) so if it dies ill just purchase another one. keke

ddub

The clutch fan is on all the time because it runs off the spinning of the motor, that's much different than an Efan running all the time.

And I'll let you know this right now DEZERTE since we live in the same state. I was running the fan kevin suggests, escort, and on the low setting in the summer it was not enough for stop and go driving, at least for me and what temperatures I felt comfortable with. I had to have it on the high setting during the summer to cool properly, but during the winter/fall low works fine.

And it is a definite draw on the electrical system. I am running an FD alternator, no PS or AC electrical draws, barely a stereo system, and no other electrical draws and at idle with the e-fan on the high setting it drops down to almost 12 volts. With lights on in the early morning or night its right about 12 volts running the fan all the time, when idling of course. Once you start to move it jumps back up to 15. But remember this is with an FD alternator, not the shitty 2nd gen ones.

ddub

Oh and personally yes I have mine running all the time, turns on with ignition, but that's because my former thermostat switch was an unholy POS and failed. I currently have a new/different one coming in the mail that will hopefully work better.

DEZERTE

hmm thx for the input, i currently live in eastern washington, so during the summer it reaches 100+ degrees normally..
hmm =\

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Kevin's hookup isn't safe. According to the page, you are to connect the fan to the 80A main fuse. Remember that the fuse is to protect the WIRE, and not the fan. The wires he used would melt long before an 80A fuse will. In the event of a short, this setup is unsafe and could cause a fire.

I have another verson on my site, which includes the proper protection.
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/efaninstall.htm

NZConvertible

The stock fan does not run all the time. When it's not required it's almost completely disengaged. The small amount of engagement remaining is what makes the fan spin, but the amount of effort being drawn from the engine is negligible. But since we're talking e-fans, show me one car manufacturer that doesn't use a thermoswitch on their e-fans. Running the fan constantly has no advantages, only disadvantages. IMO most people who do this are just being cheap and lazy. Why run it constantly when it's only required 5-10% of the time? I would think the noise alone would convince people to use a thermoswitch.

As he points out, Kevin's experience with e-fans is just that, his experience. This forum is littered with people you've had quite differnet experiences, particularly with changing problems. I've installed several quality thermoswitches over the years and not had a single problem. If you were really worried about adding points of failure then you wouldn't be replacing the stock fan, which has proven to last over 15 years and cool better than any e-fan.

Thanks for complimenting the diagram.

GTR

iTrader: (6)

NZ is actually correct... (what's new?) . you are better off using the thermoswitch. Wiring the fan to run all the time when the ignition is on is insane. That's too much of a load all the time for the charging system. Do yourself a favor and wire it up correctly. You wont regret it. Don't be one of those people that post on the forum 'EFAN sucks' because you had it running constantly and too much of a load for your charging system to handle. My EFan is set to run with a thermostat built in the shroud thats if my will ever run!!

EDIT: Don't mess with the guy that has 8,000+ posts.