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Have spark, no fuel... won`t start

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Old 09-29-11, 10:44 AM
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key is on while i spin cas.... i can hear the pump run, inj click. no jumper on connector for fuel pump. i can get it tp fire once i spin cas by hand, restab, the start. itll run till that fuel is used. something isnt letting the inj have power? also i did the fuel pump rewire per 1300cc site, just deleted the fuel pump resister. soldered the wires together, a-b and e-f. left c-d open cuz im not using relay. wired it up at tank with 30amp relay, pwr from bat. acc on from switch, pwr to pump, ground from pump to chassis
Old 09-29-11, 11:08 AM
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Try it w/the jumper in place then. And you soldered the Blue/Red wires to the Blue wires at the Fuel Pump Relay and Resistor? And what does"acc on from switch" mean?
Old 09-29-11, 11:24 AM
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screw it, install a fuel pressure gauge on the feed line and watch it while cranking.
Old 09-29-11, 11:26 AM
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https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...el+pump+rewire

I cut out the resister all together and soldered the 4 wires like he said. My last car was a n/a tii swap and i didnt have this stupid fuel relay crap... i installed a supra tt denso pump on the car im having problems with.

i tried the jumper and still nothing... pump runs, but injectors arent seeing a signal. What gets me is the spinning by hand. Is something not working when starter is engaged?

I rechecked my fuses again. All are good.
Old 09-29-11, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Karack
screw it, install a fuel pressure gauge on the feed line and watch it while cranking.

I dont have access to one atm. When i jumper the connection pump stays running. I can hear fuel at the fpr and going back in the return. Why on earth when i turn it over by hand without cranking will the injectors open is whats baffling me.
Old 09-29-11, 11:30 AM
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oh and thanks so far for all your guys input on this. Im not one of those that dont appreciate things. Its ppl like yall that make this forum what it is.
Old 09-29-11, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by sLiCk WiLlIe
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...el+pump+rewire

I cut out the resister all together and soldered the 4 wires like he said. My last car was a n/a tii swap and i didnt have this stupid fuel relay crap... i installed a supra tt denso pump on the car im having problems with.

i tried the jumper and still nothing... pump runs, but injectors arent seeing a signal. What gets me is the spinning by hand. Is something not working when starter is engaged?

I rechecked my fuses again. All are good.
Did you check the voltage at the two ecu pins related to the primary injectors w/key to on?
Old 09-29-11, 11:32 AM
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yes, there good.
Old 09-29-11, 11:34 AM
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its like pwr is cut as soon as i crank it over. It gets enough fuel to start when i hand turn cas, but then nothing when its burnt up. pulled plugs to make sure they werent fouled, and checked for spark again. All is good.
Old 09-29-11, 11:34 AM
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what a pita... lol
Old 09-29-11, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by sLiCk WiLlIe
I dont have access to one atm. When i jumper the connection pump stays running. I can hear fuel at the fpr and going back in the return. Why on earth when i turn it over by hand without cranking will the injectors open is whats baffling me.
pump sound means nothing, except that it is doing something rather than nothing.

i have had 2 cars with pumps wired backwards and one wired through the incorrect wiring to the connectors, still was running but only off the reference voltage supplied for the sending units.

there is also the possibility of the lines reversed at the fuel rails, pump can be running fine and a small amount of fuel getting to the injectors but not consistent.

the ECU gets it's ground for the injectors from the brass ring terminal to the rear rotor housing, which i have also had issues with. also had issues with the leading coil pack connector burning up, tarnishing the connection drawing amperage and causing the exact same symptoms you are describing.

just ruling out possibilities.

Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 09-29-11 at 11:41 AM.
Old 09-29-11, 11:45 AM
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flow is right, out thru top of fuel filter, into bottom rail, out the top rail to return line correct?
Old 09-29-11, 11:47 AM
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i nevr touched the fuel lines this time. those extra 2 wires when i cut the pump relay, one has 12v, other is dead. I just taped them off. My relay in the back has pwr from battery, energized by stock connector, +pos from 30amp relay to pump, pump grounded.
Old 09-29-11, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Karack
pump sound means nothing, except that it is doing something rather than nothing.

i have had 2 cars with pumps wired backwards and one wired through the incorrect wiring to the connectors, still was running but only off the reference voltage supplied for the sending units.

there is also the possibility of the lines reversed at the fuel rails, pump can be running fine and a small amount of fuel getting to the injectors but not consistent.

the ECU gets it's ground for the injectors from the brass ring terminal to the rear rotor housing, which i have also had issues with. also had issues with the leading coil pack connector burning up, tarnishing the connection drawing amperage and causing the exact same symptoms you are describing.

just ruling out possibilities.
So the brass ring on rear housing got tarnished when your leading coil cooked? or are you saying the connection on coil? I have good spark from both leading and trail. Ill go check the ground. I had the upper intake off and maybe the wire broke somewhere and im not seeing it.
Old 09-29-11, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by sLiCk WiLlIe
i nevr touched the fuel lines this time. those extra 2 wires when i cut the pump relay, one has 12v, other is dead. I just taped them off. My relay in the back has pwr from battery, energized by stock connector, +pos from 30amp relay to pump, pump grounded.
The B/W wire at the relay should have 12 volts w/key to on while the G/R wire is a ground wire from the ECU that has a ground signal when cruising. The relay added to your pump rewiring has a coil which needs voltage w/key to on and also at start. Does yours?
Old 09-29-11, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by sLiCk WiLlIe
So the brass ring on rear housing got tarnished when your leading coil cooked? or are you saying the connection on coil? I have good spark from both leading and trail. Ill go check the ground. I had the upper intake off and maybe the wire broke somewhere and im not seeing it.
just unplug the 2 pin connector at the leading coil and inspect for any corrosion or discoloring of the wires and be sure the wires to the ring terminal at the rear housing are in decent shape, there are multiple wires going into that junction and any one of the wires can break inside the loom.
Old 09-29-11, 12:05 PM
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ok thanks. My phones about ready to die... ugh
Old 09-29-11, 12:20 PM
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I'm sure the power to the relay coil is not powered by the battery feed line that you ran to the relay because if both terminals at the relay which requires voltage had constant voltage then the pump would run w/o the key in the ignition. So the power to the coil needs voltage w/key to on and start as well. The IG1 bank of fuses in the interior fuse box have power w/key to start as well as on. The IG2 bank of fuses has power w/key to on but not at start. You need to tell us which wire you chose to power the relay coil connected to the pump. Okay?
Old 09-29-11, 12:48 PM
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i have it wired exctly like the link i provided. +b/w to relay, b to relay ground. ok heres a dumb question. ij used to jspec rails.... is the lower primary and upper secondary or vs, versa? cuz i got my 1680s on the top rail, and they are the ones firing... took intake off to verify. they should open should they?
Old 09-29-11, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by sLiCk WiLlIe
i have it wired exctly like the link i provided. +b/w to relay, b to relay ground. ok heres a dumb question. ij used to jspec rails.... is the lower primary and upper secondary or vs, versa? cuz i got my 1680s on the top rail, and they are the ones firing... took intake off to verify. they should open should they?
Only the primaries should fire and not the secondaries as they only open above 3800 rpm or so or unless they were tricked into thinking the engine was under load which you did not do. The Light Green wire and the Light Green/Black wire go to the primaries while the Light Green/White and Light Green/Red go to the secondaries so you likely have them mixed up!
Old 09-29-11, 01:00 PM
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when i changed injectors i did top first then bottom. i didnt move the wires, idk how you could stretch the primary wires up that far.
Old 09-29-11, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by sLiCk WiLlIe
when i changed injectors i did top first then bottom. i didnt move the wires, idk how you could stretch the primary wires up that far.
Depends on which type of harness is used and how it's routed. It's been done before, trust me.
Old 09-29-11, 01:19 PM
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Not sure if it's even possible but if you plugged in the smallest ECU plug, which houses the injector wires, upside down that would reverse the primaries into the secondaries position and vice versa. It would also switch the Starter signal w/the Main relay signal thus the ECU would still be powered up w/key to start. You really didn't do this. Did you?

Pin 3C and 3E are LG/B and LG respectively and they should be on the "top" row of the smallest ECU plug.
Old 09-29-11, 01:24 PM
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its the stock tii harness. its never been touched till i got my hands on it. this is weird. banzai racing, whats the pin outs on the s4 adapter for inj.? mine had resisters when i bought it, i cut them out and soldered eavh wire one at a time. if some how he had them backwards that might explain this, but how did he drive his car then?? im gonna check the pinouts and put rtek back in to verify that the sec. inj arent firing with that ecu
Old 09-29-11, 01:27 PM
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lol...no connectors forced together. everything is as it should be.


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