Have to slame into gear and clutch feels its only at the bottom of the pedal
Okay so i replaces all the slave cylinder and everything cause i thought that was the problem but come to fine out i dont think it is. i bled it got pressure back in the pedal but then i couldnt get it into gear. i had to slam it into gear, and the pedal lost a little pressure it drove around fine but if i wanted to get into gear i have to slam it into gear. do you think its a bad pressure plate or?? im lost on this ive never had this problem before. the clutch pedal hasnt lost all pressure but just some and feels like it only works waaayyy at the bottom. when i got it in gear i barely lift off the clutch pedal and it engages all the way no happy medium. Let me know what you guys think it is. thanks
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No, your clutch is not disengaging. The reason why is that your clutch hydraulics is messed up. Either the master cylinder is gone (since you said the slave has already been replaced) or there is still air in the system somewhere (most likely).
No, your clutch is not disengaging. The reason why is that your clutch hydraulics is messed up. Either the master cylinder is gone (since you said the slave has already been replaced) or there is still air in the system somewhere (most likely).
Volvo Reverse Clutch Bleeding - YouTube
Volvo Reverse Clutch Bleeding - YouTube
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
Have someone help you. Measure the travel at the slave cylinder/clutch fork while the pedal is pushed. You should have at least half an inch of travel. Have them hold the pedal and see if the slave/fork remain fully extended or if they move and fall back quickly. IF either of those conditions are not met, you know your hydraulics are weak and either need more bleeding or are defective.
Have someone help you. Measure the travel at the slave cylinder/clutch fork while the pedal is pushed. You should have at least half an inch of travel. Have them hold the pedal and see if the slave/fork remain fully extended or if they move and fall back quickly. IF either of those conditions are not met, you know your hydraulics are weak and either need more bleeding or are defective.
Okay, tried bleeding it again.. still nothing. wont hold pressure. went to harbor freight and bought one of those oil pumps.... did not work and bought a brake bleeder pump deal... didnt work. maybe the pump i got is broken idk. But bled it the old fasion way and cant get enough pressure in the clutch. Anymore ideas?? what about the rubber line that goes into the slave could that line be worn out?? thats only other thing i can think of. Should i just buy a new master cylinder while im at it?? cause then everything will be new at that point. let me know what you guys think. when bleeding it it was pumping out fluid. im lost at this point
Did you check the pedal free play? And what do you mean by "didn't work"? Did the oil can not pump pressure, or were you just unsuccessful at getting any air out? Also, did you have someone watch the slave/fork while the clutch pedal was depressed? Does it move out then slowly come back, or does it move out and just stay?
Let me edit this for understanding:
The pedal free-play is crucial. There's a small port inside the master cylinder that connects the system to the reservoir. If the pedal free-play is too tight, that port can get covered, preventing any fluid from the reservoir to enter the system. Likewise, it will trap every bit of air in the system.
If the slave cylinder moves out and then slowly returns, that means the master (or slave) is leaking by.
The line can not go bad unless it has a rupture, or it's bulging out when the pedal is depressed. I recommend replacing both the master and slave at the same time if you're going to replace one. It's very difficult to distinguish which one has gone bad, so just bite the bullet and do them both. You can get them from Mazdatrix all together for less than $100. I'm sure parts stores sell them even cheaper.
Let me edit this for understanding:
The pedal free-play is crucial. There's a small port inside the master cylinder that connects the system to the reservoir. If the pedal free-play is too tight, that port can get covered, preventing any fluid from the reservoir to enter the system. Likewise, it will trap every bit of air in the system.
If the slave cylinder moves out and then slowly returns, that means the master (or slave) is leaking by.
The line can not go bad unless it has a rupture, or it's bulging out when the pedal is depressed. I recommend replacing both the master and slave at the same time if you're going to replace one. It's very difficult to distinguish which one has gone bad, so just bite the bullet and do them both. You can get them from Mazdatrix all together for less than $100. I'm sure parts stores sell them even cheaper.
Did you check the pedal free play? And what do you mean by "didn't work"? Did the oil can not pump pressure, or were you just unsuccessful at getting any air out? Also, did you have someone watch the slave/fork while the clutch pedal was depressed? Does it move out then slowly come back, or does it move out and just stay?
Let me edit this for understanding:
The pedal free-play is crucial. There's a small port inside the master cylinder that connects the system to the reservoir. If the pedal free-play is too tight, that port can get covered, preventing any fluid from the reservoir to enter the system. Likewise, it will trap every bit of air in the system.
If the slave cylinder moves out and then slowly returns, that means the master (or slave) is leaking by.
The line can not go bad unless it has a rupture, or it's bulging out when the pedal is depressed. I recommend replacing both the master and slave at the same time if you're going to replace one. It's very difficult to distinguish which one has gone bad, so just bite the bullet and do them both. You can get them from Mazdatrix all together for less than $100. I'm sure parts stores sell them even cheaper.
Let me edit this for understanding:
The pedal free-play is crucial. There's a small port inside the master cylinder that connects the system to the reservoir. If the pedal free-play is too tight, that port can get covered, preventing any fluid from the reservoir to enter the system. Likewise, it will trap every bit of air in the system.
If the slave cylinder moves out and then slowly returns, that means the master (or slave) is leaking by.
The line can not go bad unless it has a rupture, or it's bulging out when the pedal is depressed. I recommend replacing both the master and slave at the same time if you're going to replace one. It's very difficult to distinguish which one has gone bad, so just bite the bullet and do them both. You can get them from Mazdatrix all together for less than $100. I'm sure parts stores sell them even cheaper.
well fluid was coming out of the reservoir.
Last edited by sinclair7seven; Jan 13, 2013 at 07:31 PM.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
In terms of setting "pedal free play" here is the easiest way to explain it:
Follow the clutch pedal up to the actuating rod that goes into the master cyl. There will be a 10mm nut cast into the rod, and a 12mm nut adjacent to that. Loosen the 12mm nut and spin it off of the 10mm nut several turns.
Now with the pedal at rest, rotate the 10mm nut/rod BY HAND in such a way as to extend it further into the MC/firewall. Eventually you will feel more resistance, in other words you'll feel it touch the MC and it will get hard to turn by hand. Stop here and back off about a turn, and when you're done you should be able to move the pedal just about 1/4 of an inch before you feel it encounter resistance. Leave the adjustment alone at that point.
IF the adjustment is set too far "out" (too much freeplay) you won't be compressing the hydraulics more than halfway and you will never get good pressure and a good feel to the clutch....and you might not even be able to bleed it.
If the adjustment is set too far "in" (no freeplay, also called "preloading") then it will also be hard to bleed because of the reason Agreen mentioned.
Follow the clutch pedal up to the actuating rod that goes into the master cyl. There will be a 10mm nut cast into the rod, and a 12mm nut adjacent to that. Loosen the 12mm nut and spin it off of the 10mm nut several turns.
Now with the pedal at rest, rotate the 10mm nut/rod BY HAND in such a way as to extend it further into the MC/firewall. Eventually you will feel more resistance, in other words you'll feel it touch the MC and it will get hard to turn by hand. Stop here and back off about a turn, and when you're done you should be able to move the pedal just about 1/4 of an inch before you feel it encounter resistance. Leave the adjustment alone at that point.
IF the adjustment is set too far "out" (too much freeplay) you won't be compressing the hydraulics more than halfway and you will never get good pressure and a good feel to the clutch....and you might not even be able to bleed it.
If the adjustment is set too far "in" (no freeplay, also called "preloading") then it will also be hard to bleed because of the reason Agreen mentioned.
Thanks, I adjusted it! feels great! Clutch grabs real quick now! That was my problem all along. it was weird when i went to go adjust all that. The 12mm nut was already backed off the 10mm. think that might of caused the random proablem?
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,815
Likes: 24
From: Columbia, Tennessee
How long have you had the car? Unless it wasn't torqued down it shouldn't have unscrewed by itself. There's not a bump stop is there? Don't remember.Could have fallen off causing the clearance problem.
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