Alright, I have four injectors, 2 I purchased used.

Now, they are all identical, the square plug, red, etc. But two of them are labeled high impedence and the other two are low impedence. I tried putting my car together and starting it. The fuel rail has pressure, I took off the spark plugs, and I can see when we are cranking it, there is no "fuel mist" so it's an injector problem. They were just rebuilt.... so they should be working. Can anyone help?

 

you can't mix and match injector impedances with the stock ECU...... you don't list what series car you have.... but, because you say you have square plugs, I'm guessing that you have an s4 that came with High injectors, so you need to source out two more high injectors..... hope you didn't burn out your ECU......

 

He has a 88SE (I'm physic) and he has blown his ENGINE fuse in the interior fuse box.

EDIT: Nah. Can't be that because he said he has fuel pressure. So then what has happened is he put the fuel pressure and return on *** backwards or misrouted his fuel lines to the rails.

He fogot to tell us where he put the high and low impedence injectors. In the primary or the secondary. I'll look at the tea leaves to figure it out.

 

I put the low impedence in the primaries....

And the FUEL RAIL is getting fuel pressure.

And I haven't cranked it since, cause I don't wanna burn out the ecu, but I hear all the relays clicking and the fuel rail is getting pressure

 

Oh.... you're "physic"? What mystical physics powers do you have =P

 

it's not going to burnout the ecu but you won't get fuel until your secondaries kick in because if it is an 88 then it runs on square plug high impedance with an offset notch on the plug. you can either solder on a 10 ohm 10 watt resistor into a lead of each low impedance injector (worked for me) or get the right impedance injectors (what i'm planning on doing and what is generally recommended).

your ecu should be good, but you may have burned out the low impedance injectors by running them on a high impedance harness.

i have a spare ecu + paypal if you do run into a problem though.

injector info:
http://rotaryresurrection.com/rotary...lder/tech.html

 

Ok.. Bud..... heres what you do.... you take those LOW injectors OUT of the promary rail and put the HIGH in there and see if it starts....

THEN... BEFORE you drive the car.. you gotta get yourself a set if HIGH injectors for the secondaries

 

^ good idea

 

just as a side question.... there are two plugs for secondaries and two for primaries, does it matter if these are mixed? if so how do you differentiate between the two, and which goes where.

sorry for the quasi threadjack

 

WELL..... the two for the primaries are usually in a different section of the wiring harness than the secondaries and theres no way in hell you could get the primaries clipped onto the secondary injectors and still get the wiring harness under all the other bullshit thats crammed on top of the engine..... Plus the primaries are like 1 inch apart and the harness is all taped up and hard by now.. kinda hard to get them on the secondaries as they are about 6 inches apart......

 

Well, I don't wanna waste these injectors, I could just do the resistor mod, correct?

 

yeah, but the solder joint could easily crap out over time especially if you do it on the primaries near the engine. if you do it, do it on the secondaries where you can replace it if/when the resistor mod goes bad. and remember you could have burned out the injectors too by running them without resistors. try it on the secondaries with high impedance primaries and see if you have a good butt dyno above 4k rpm without hesitation or misfiring. that should tell u if they're working: i could tell mine were working well within a 1/4 mile of the house.

 

I didnt mean between the primary and secondaries, thats pretty simple.

I actually meant the two that are together (ie, can you mix the two secondaries, and can you mix the two primaries)

 

yeah, when i rewired mine i double checked wire colors against a haynes wiring diagram (copy of FSM diagram) to make sure.

avoid having to do that all together by putting a piece of tape on them with "F" front and "R" rear before you take them off.

 

well ive already done it... are the wire colours different?