Has anyone made an underbody pan from scratch? (metal probably)
#1
Like Ghandi with a gun
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 4,584
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Has anyone made an underbody pan from scratch? (metal probably)
Just curious, mine was dragging along effectively turning the car into a snow/gravel plow. I removed it several years ago because of this. I've aways intended on finding either a replacement, for fabbing something up, but it was never really priority. Anybody have any ideas on making one from scracth, as compared to finding one, shipping it here, ect.
#2
1.3L is not that small
actually i have one if you want it... its in my storage but i think its in good condition... just minus the bolts to hold it on... i removed them on both my cars, and before anybody says im gonna overheat i dont... i barely even make it to the 1/4 mark on my guage and as far as stability... i never go above 85 so i really dont need it for aerodynamics
#6
Like Ghandi with a gun
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 4,584
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I work for UPS, main reason I suggested is because the first idea for shipping it is to just slap a lable on the plastic... just I know how **** gets beatup in the trailors...
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Ramon CA 94583
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I thought I read of an RC owner that made a sheetmetal belly plate for the entire front 50%, and measured either coolant temperature or air pressure points along the underbody.
Anyway, it's on my list of RX-7 subprojects. Instead of metal, I'm considering rigid nylon or propylene sheeting, for easier fabrication, ding/snag resistance, and vibration damping (quieter than metal). I might bolt low profile nylon rails to the belly, then fasten sheeting with rivet snaps. The objective is a flatter belly with good upward and sideward engine bay drafting.
Anyway, it's on my list of RX-7 subprojects. Instead of metal, I'm considering rigid nylon or propylene sheeting, for easier fabrication, ding/snag resistance, and vibration damping (quieter than metal). I might bolt low profile nylon rails to the belly, then fasten sheeting with rivet snaps. The objective is a flatter belly with good upward and sideward engine bay drafting.
Last edited by jhillyer; 08-22-04 at 08:25 PM.
Trending Topics
#9
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 15,608
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Considering the complex shape of the stock undertray, it would take a lot of fiddly work to custom make one that does the job as well. If you removed it originally, why don't you just reinstall it? It sounds like you were just missing some bolts.
#10
Like Ghandi with a gun
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 4,584
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Various things, the underbody was ripped in one place, and the front end sags a bit which made all the mounts in the front off. Also I most the bolts I touched 3 years ago to remove it just snapped right off front rust deterriation.
#12
Hey guys, I know the belly pans are a pain cause they are made from plastic which sucks. I am in the development stages of fabracateing the belly pan for FCs out of sheet metal. I'll keep you posted on how it goes. If all is well I can make as many as is needed. Of course shipping and handleing would be included in the purchase price. They will sell between 50 to 65 bucks depending on how much of a pain it is to make the first one. Let me know if you are interested. Again it all depends on how the first on goes to determine if I will make more or not.
Last edited by rx7cowboy86; 08-28-04 at 07:05 PM.
#13
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 15,608
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Originally Posted by rx7cowboy86
I know the belly pans are a pain cause they are made from plastic which sucks.
#14
It's a Hammer
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Richland WA
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have 2 undebelly pans. The plastic one and a metal one behind it under the clutch area.
You don't need a full front to rear under pan unless you are going over 200 mph.
You don't need a full front to rear under pan unless you are going over 200 mph.
#15
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Darwin, NT, Australia
Posts: 1,228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by dr.jones63
I have 2 undebelly pans. The plastic one and a metal one behind it under the clutch area.
You don't need a full front to rear under pan unless you are going over 200 mph.
You don't need a full front to rear under pan unless you are going over 200 mph.
I believe the metal one was only available as an option (the areo package..), even Australian delivered FC's which were apparently ALL fully optioned some do not come with the metal bit however most i've seen here DO..
werid..
and a full front to rear underbody spoiler will help at any speed and it would be very noticable..
however your right, next to no one on here would actually NEED one of those..
Would help alot though..
#16
Yar-Har-Har
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Nashville, 37217
Posts: 1,954
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by rx7cowboy86
Hey guys, I know the belly pans are a pain cause they are made from plastic which sucks. I am in the development stages of fabracateing the belly pan for FCs out of sheet metal. I'll keep you posted on how it goes. If all is well I can make as many as is needed. Of course shipping and handleing would be included in the purchase price. They will sell between 50 to 65 bucks depending on how much of a pain it is to make the first one. Let me know if you are interested. Again it all depends on how the first on goes to determine if I will make more or not.
interested
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tiger18
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
9
09-03-15 08:27 PM