knowing my injectors were leaking and causing my engine to flood i thought getting them cleaned would fix the

problem. before i got them cleaned my engine was flooding. after it would start a lot of white smoke would

come out from the exhaust. after i got my injectors cleaned the white smoke disappeared but the cold hard

starts still continued. my spark plugs were changed last year with less than 1000 miles on them. it also has a

new water temp sensor. i dont think the coil could be going bad because there are no burning marks on the

coil itself and the spark plug wires. theres no way my inejectors could still be leaking because i got them

cleaned. the compression on the motor is at 90 psi. what could be causing the cold hard starts?

 

Is your ECU seeing the START signal on pin 3B when the key is HELD to START?

Are you seeing 1-3 vdc on pin 2I of the ECU when the key is ON?

You should backprobe those wires with the key ON or to START and the plugs connected to the ECU.

 

please
explain

 

Get an electric mulitmeter. Get a Factory Service Manual or download one of the interwebz, find which pin on the ECU harness is 2I and 3B. Unclip the plastic shroud at the outer part of the passenger foot well and unscrew the plastic door jam thing along the bottom of the passenger door...hole. Peel back the carpet to expose the kick plate protecting the ECU. Using a 10mm driver with an extension, remove the 4 10mm bolts securing the kick plate. Turn the key to "on". Turn the multimeter on to Volts DC. Insert the red probe of the multimeter into the rear of the 2I pin. Apply the black probe of the multimeter to a good ground source. Tell us the results.

Next, make sure the e-brake is on and the car is in neutral. Insert the red probe of the multimeter into the rear of the 3B pin. Apply the black probe of the multimeter to a good ground source. Have a friend turn the car over. Tell us the results.

:-)

 

if it is not seeing power at the ecu, does that mean that the ecu is bad or what?

 

ok im going to have to get a multimeter tomorrow.

ill let you guys know

 

The START signal is an INPUT TO the ECU, not a output From the ECU.

The start cycle is explained in the two jpg attached out of the TRAINING MANUAL that NZCONVERTIBLE made available to this forum.

It's looking for approx batt voltage at pin 3B when the key is HELD to START.

It's looking for a rpm under 500 rpm.

IT's looking at the coolant temperature through the coolant temp sensor on the back of the water pump housing to determine just how much fuel to *squirt* from the primary injectors during the Start cycle.

So you Need for the ECU to see the START signal on pin 2B and the coolant temperature via the pin 2I ........and the CAS/Trail coil supplys the rpm over/under 500 rpm.

The ECU isn't using the AFM under 500 rpm during Start.

IF pin 2I signal is open b/t the coolant sensor and the ECU then the ECU defaults to 178*F and if you look at the graph in the attachment you readily see that the amount of fuel delivered will be much less than if the coolant signal was supplying the correct temp signal (if the car was stone cold that is, if it was already a hot engine then it would not matter if the signal was open b/t the sensor and the ECU)

A car that has the been tampered with and someone has installed a push button type starter signal and has bypassed the stk wiring might very well have some cold starting problems 'cause the ECU isn't going to see that push button start device....most likely. But if you live in Fla then maybe there's be no problem since the temp in Fla is fairly warm all yr long....more or less.

 

sounds like it could be low compression ? but that could be me

 

I have the exact issue as the OP. just got the injectors cleaned, and I'm still having cold start issues.

The 2I pin gives off .01 volts only
the 3B pin 8-10 volts.

What would be the best way to go from here?