Here's a link for some background on my project.

Now for the progress.

I've spent most of the last two weeks compiling a list of preventative maintenance steps to get the car back on the road and ultimately onto the track. Plus running around picking up the various things along with some tools I needed. So I didn't really make any progress until today.

I did a few minor things after work today... I changed the oil w/ Castrol 5W30 and a K&N oil filter, replaced the filter element on the HKS intake, and removed the bracket for the front license plate.

Now for the stupid questions:

1> The Mazda workshop manual says to use the center of the front cross member as the jacking point so you can put jack stands under the frame. How the f*** do you get a jack under there and still have room to operate the handle? My Craftsman jack couldn't get enough movement in handle to get any lift. I had to use the OEM jack on the side to get the front end up enough.

2> When trying to get the old oil filter off, I had to use the old "screwdriver" method. I popped a hole in the side and of course, oil ran down the filter and onto various under-hood parts. Afterwards, I did what I should've done before and did a quick search and found that I should have made a hole in the top to relieve the pressure. Does doing this somehow prevent the oil in the filter from spilling as I take it off? BTW...the oil was black as tar and I was religious about 3K changes with good oil when it was still being driven regularly.

3> While I was under the car, I saw evidence of both and oil leak and a coolant leak. The oil looked like it was coming from a sensor? on the side of the oilpan. I don't have the manual in front of me, but I'm guessing this is the oil pressure/level sensor?

4> Now the coolant on the other hand, that has me worried. I got under the car as best I could but I couldn't find a source. Is it possible that the leak is internal and the coolant is coming out of the same place as the oil? I'm doubting this was the case because I could definitely see the green coolant separate from the oil in certain places.

Oh, one thing I did do before today was replace the battery. During the transport, it wouldn't start without a jump, but a new battery had it starting under its own power. Installed an Interstate Megatron Plus MTP-78DT monster - 1000CA and 800CCA, almost double what the original factory battery had. That is a big f***in' battery, too big for the battery box, but it still fits in the tray. It's a smidge shorter than the other Interstate that was in there before, so the threads on the hold-down rods weren't long enough. I extended the threads on the rods and now it's snug and tight.

OK, that's enough blabbering tonight. More updates to come...

 

are you operating the car in temps under 30F that you are using 5W30??? 5W30 should be only used in temps below 30F.

10W30 would be a better choice as it should be used in temps above -10F and below 80F.

As far as #1 You will need a slim height floor jack to get under there as you have only about 5 or 6 inches room.

as far as #2 Yes poping a small hole in the top will help drain the filter before you remove it. The fact that the oil is balck suggests that it is either the worng weight or you have other issues. if it continues to be dark after a couple of oil changes then you may wish to have cormpression checked, and use the right weight oil.

#3 The oil level sensor is on the pan, the oil pressure sensor is located just under the filter on the side of the motor.

#4 probaly the heater hose just under the oil filter is leaking... it often happens if oil gets spilled regularly on it when removing the filter. The hose will rot out and soften, then leak then burst.

An oversize battery is not recommended unless you have draw problems (like from a ultra high aftermarket power stereo system). The oversized battery besides having clearence problems will also add additional weight to the front end, and additional load on the alt to re-charge it.

 

It was 23F when I left my house this morning. So, I think I'm fine with what I have.


The battery is something that I've NEVER scimped on. I've always gone for the biggest (read as most powerful) one that would fit in the space. It's only slightly longer than the original battery and slightly shorter, so it's not like it's much bigger physically. Anyway, it's most likely going to be relocated to the rear and I plan to put an driver-controlled electric fan on to warrant the extra juice.

 

Well there is a reason on most imports why the battery is what size it is, and that is packaging and weight. It has to be big enough to start the car, and yet not too heavy to change the dynamics.

The Optima batteries are classic examples of a smaller sized battery with extra capabilities, that won't strain your alt to recharge it when drained. Biggest does not mean the most powerful and best. Biggest just means the biggest and often the heaviest.

 

Well, your advice is well taken, but however unconventional or unsound my logic may sound, my rule of thumb for batteries has always been "bigger is better"

And as far as the weight goes, I mentioned that this battery is only slightly larger than the old one. Interstate's website lists 43lb. I don't know the factory battery weight, but the ones they spec as a direct replacement for the 90 RX7 list at 34, 37, or 40lbs. 3-9lbs is not going to make that much of a difference in the long run IMHO.

Of course as always, YMMV.

 

Did you even *read* icemark's post?

 

Did you even *read* my reply? If you aren't going to offer anything constructive, do everyone a favor and keep your comments to yourselff.