For the guys that have turbo'd their NA's
#1
777** The Anti-rice
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 2,100
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For the guys that have turbo'd their NA's
I have read aaron cakes how to and its pretty complete for the most part, but i was wondering if anybody has plumbed oil/coolant to the turbo any different than what aaron cake did? if you have pics or anything thatd be awesome.
Im in the process of colletecting the pieces right now, and im almost done. Just trying to gather as much information as I possibly can.
Im in the process of colletecting the pieces right now, and im almost done. Just trying to gather as much information as I possibly can.
#3
i am legendary
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 8,478
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm going to do my oil feed differently than he did. Racing Beat sells an adapter that goes under the oil filter for connecting oil pressure/temp gauges to. Basically it is just a thing with holes in it that is tapped so you can screw in the gauge adapter/sender units. This thing goes under the filter and oil flows through it so the sensors can send the signal to the gauge. I bought one for my oil temp gauge and plugged the 2nd hole since I didnt have a pressure gauge. What I'm going to do is take the plug out and put in a fitting for a ss braided line to come off of and go to the turbo. This is the feed line for the oil and will work out really easily, no drilling or tapping from somewhere else, which I like. For oil return, however, I couldnt think of a better or easier way than the oil pan unfortunately. So I'm just going to drill into a spare one I bought, tap it, put a fitting in for a ss braided line again, and then cake one some JB weld around the fitting to make sure there's no leaks in it. I think that really is the easiest way to do the return, but someone can give their suggestion on it if they have a better idea.
Also, about a week ago I was looking on cardomain at rx7's and came across this guy with a 1st gen that he turbo'd (turbo'd n/a block). Sure enough he had the same idea/plan as I thought of with the RB adapter. Here's the page where he shows pics:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/260761/8
He also gives a list of the fittings and such needed which is really nice, because now I wont have to figure it out myself.
Also, about a week ago I was looking on cardomain at rx7's and came across this guy with a 1st gen that he turbo'd (turbo'd n/a block). Sure enough he had the same idea/plan as I thought of with the RB adapter. Here's the page where he shows pics:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/260761/8
He also gives a list of the fittings and such needed which is really nice, because now I wont have to figure it out myself.
#4
i am legendary
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 8,478
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by DEZERTE
Like, where did you tap the oil from etc. How hard was it to plumb coolant also?
Like, where did you tap the oil from etc. How hard was it to plumb coolant also?
Coolant is easy too. I'm pretty sure the s5 has the same line as the s4 that I'm going to be talking about. When you do the tb mod you know how you re-route that one coolant line under the intake manifolds? Afterwards it goes from the water pump housing to the block. Well here is what you do for coolant feed/return when you turbo. Just run that line under the manifolds to the turbo and then from the turbo back to the other end. I think it flows from the block to the water pump, but I'm not actually sure, find out from someone else before doing this, obviously. So say it flows from block to water pump housing. What you'd do is instead run the line from the block to the turbo feed, and then from turbo return to the water pump housing. Nice and easy.
#5
Windsor, Ont
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Windsor, Ont
Posts: 1,175
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've always thought about having a seperate oil canaster/pump/cooler for the turbo if you were doing a "Budget super ghetto fabulous" turbo setup
Then you dont have to worry about tapping oil from the block.
But I'm sure something like this probably wouldent work for some reason.
Then you dont have to worry about tapping oil from the block.
But I'm sure something like this probably wouldent work for some reason.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I used the adapter below the oil filter dDub is talking about. I was very easy and inexpensive. For the return line I used a fitting for the front cover (my S5 already has a place for it just like the T2). All I had to do was open the hole and tap it for the size bolts I used. Again very inexpensive and it works well.
#7
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Darwin, NT, Australia
Posts: 1,228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by CompuBob
I've always thought about having a seperate oil canaster/pump/cooler for the turbo if you were doing a "Budget super ghetto fabulous" turbo setup
Then you dont have to worry about tapping oil from the block.
But I'm sure something like this probably wouldent work for some reason.
I've always thought about having a seperate oil canaster/pump/cooler for the turbo if you were doing a "Budget super ghetto fabulous" turbo setup
Then you dont have to worry about tapping oil from the block.
But I'm sure something like this probably wouldent work for some reason.
How the HELL do you suppose that an extra "oil canaster/pump/cooler" will be simpler than getting oil from the block!?
Personally when I turbo charged my N/A I drilled and tapped a hole in the top of one of the banjo bolts on the oil cooler, and ran the line from there.
Easy enough to replace with a stock part if something goes wrong.
Thanks to Aaron for the suggestion on that one
Trending Topics
#8
Windsor, Ont
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Windsor, Ont
Posts: 1,175
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by White_FC
How the HELL do you suppose that an extra "oil canaster/pump/cooler" will be simpler than getting oil from the block!?
Personally when I turbo charged my N/A I drilled and tapped a hole in the top of one of the banjo bolts on the oil cooler, and ran the line from there.
Easy enough to replace with a stock part if something goes wrong.
Thanks to Aaron for the suggestion on that one
How the HELL do you suppose that an extra "oil canaster/pump/cooler" will be simpler than getting oil from the block!?
Personally when I turbo charged my N/A I drilled and tapped a hole in the top of one of the banjo bolts on the oil cooler, and ran the line from there.
Easy enough to replace with a stock part if something goes wrong.
Thanks to Aaron for the suggestion on that one
#9
777** The Anti-rice
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 2,100
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That is a freeking good idea for the oil Ddub, totally excellent, I wasnt looking forward to tapping oil supply, but now i dont care
edit*
same with the coolant lines to, i know what youre talking about...seems so easy, i never thoguht of that.
edit*
same with the coolant lines to, i know what youre talking about...seems so easy, i never thoguht of that.
#10
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
Originally posted by White_FC
How the HELL do you suppose that an extra "oil canaster/pump/cooler" will be simpler than getting oil from the block!?
Personally when I turbo charged my N/A I drilled and tapped a hole in the top of one of the banjo bolts on the oil cooler, and ran the line from there.
Easy enough to replace with a stock part if something goes wrong.
Thanks to Aaron for the suggestion on that one
How the HELL do you suppose that an extra "oil canaster/pump/cooler" will be simpler than getting oil from the block!?
Personally when I turbo charged my N/A I drilled and tapped a hole in the top of one of the banjo bolts on the oil cooler, and ran the line from there.
Easy enough to replace with a stock part if something goes wrong.
Thanks to Aaron for the suggestion on that one
And WhiteFC .....your still using 460 injectors????
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is the setup I did on mine.
http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...r/Oil_feed.jpg
http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...Oil_Return.jpg
http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...r/Oil_feed.jpg
http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...Oil_Return.jpg
#14
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Darwin, NT, Australia
Posts: 1,228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by HAILERS
Not to be picky, but if you do it that way you'd want to tap the banjo that points outboard and not the one that sticks straight up. If you pick the straight up one.........your bypassing the oil cooler. That means feeding piping hot oil out of the pan right back into the turbo and never cooling it. The banjo bolt on the rear housing seems the one I'd pick if I were to do that. It seems the outboard banjo on the cooler would not have enough room to tap it and install a union/whatever.
And WhiteFC .....your still using 460 injectors????
Not to be picky, but if you do it that way you'd want to tap the banjo that points outboard and not the one that sticks straight up. If you pick the straight up one.........your bypassing the oil cooler. That means feeding piping hot oil out of the pan right back into the turbo and never cooling it. The banjo bolt on the rear housing seems the one I'd pick if I were to do that. It seems the outboard banjo on the cooler would not have enough room to tap it and install a union/whatever.
And WhiteFC .....your still using 460 injectors????
Thats a good point, forgot to say I did the 'out' one. This was also mentioned in the thread where I first got this idea.
Very easy and lots of room for a 90deg fitting there.
2x1200cc injectors now HAILERS, but non-turbo, for now. But anyway that's a topic for another thread..
FWIW, the 460cc's were fine for me at 10psi though.
#16
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Darwin, NT, Australia
Posts: 1,228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by dDuB
Durr? How?
Durr? How?
Not me...
The microtech certainly didn't say they were hitting close to max-duty cycle.
#18
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Darwin, NT, Australia
Posts: 1,228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by dDuB
Wow thats crazy... I think I'm going to go with 550/720's still though, just to be safe
Wow thats crazy... I think I'm going to go with 550/720's still though, just to be safe
The less duty cycle your running them on the better. Until you start going too big and have atomisation problems at idle but thats >1600cc style injectors.
#22
i am legendary
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 8,478
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by version13
Would PVC work as IC piping? I thought it'd be way to fragile.
Would PVC work as IC piping? I thought it'd be way to fragile.
I've seen a 1st gen guy with turbo use PVC piping temporarily cuz he couldn't afford metal. I'm sure it'd be fine for a temp job, eventually you'd want to change it though.
#23
Super Raterhater
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: NY, MA, MI, OR, TX, and now LA or AZ!
Posts: 10,626
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I just drilled it, threaded it for 1/8th npt, used some pipe fittings and a 1/4 hose barb, ran the hose to the turbo, and that was it. I drain to a tII front cover.
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Would PVC work as IC piping? I thought it'd be way to fragile.
#25