Well, so far so good......thanks to CYMFC3S for the block off plates. WEll the car had/has a hard time with the idle or lack thereof. here are my symptoms/questions:

1. Idle cannot remain stable...
a. I found that the Air-flow SENSOR broke so that probably is a cause for this.
b. WHERE CAN I FIND JUST THE SENSOR FOR SALE?

2.The CAS does not stay where I set it, no matter how many times I set it.
a. the Air-flow meter might also have something to do with this.
b. WHERE CAN I GET A REPLACEMENT "CAS" REALLY CHEAP?

3. I have no headlight motors, left or right turn signals, interior lights.
a. I have not tried to figure out why yet
b. emergency flashers only activate the "right" turn signal....

4. Front Brakes vibrate when brakes are used
a. I have no idea what's up yet.

5.the clutch does not engage properly.....
a. there is plenty of fluid in the container
b. clutch has no pressure the first 1/4 of the way...
c. Bled the clutch

6. TID has cracks at the turbo end
a. I need to make a new one

7. leaking a little bit of oil at the top of the oil cooler.
a. I will get a new crush washer, this SHOULD fix it.


So I had to get the car out of my parents house today...so I did everything possible to get it done. I changed the pplugs, I put in some new gas, I bypassed the air flow sensor( connected both ends to make it think the circuit was closed) I installed my exhaust and ghetto fabbed the TID to keep it from leaking, I also bled the clutch and bolted my seats in. I drove it 40 miles from San Jose to SAnta Cruz and I did not encounter any problems besides the brakes(see above)....the temp was good, and everything else seemed to run well.....thanks to everyone who helped me and I hope you can help me with the problems I have left.

Thanks,
Hassell

 

whooooooo....... Problem 1 taken care of thanks to 1987rx7guy..........

 

the clutch seems to work on and off......I had a bitch of a time puttingit in first gear at a light.......any ideas?

 

Was the clutch fliud the color of beer, or did it have a dark tint?

Any dark tint is from the rubber piston cup as it wears out.

 

try the parts for sale section for the best deals, theres always people parting out there car

 

More details?
Are you using a timing gun?
What kinda gun are you using?
When is it moving?
Does it move when you rev it?
Does the motor idle funny when it misfires?


Sounds like a lot of electrical wiring headaches.
Some might be connected to a bad light cluster switch...
Some might be connected to bad cold solder joints in the CPU...


Brake pads are bad.
Brake rotors are warped.


Clutch hydraulics are bad - check and replace clutch slave and clutch master cylinders.



-Ted

 

It is daark........can I replace just that part?

 

I am using a timing gun.....i don't remember the brand tho
I take the CAS out and i turn the pulley so the yellow mark is at the marker....I adjust the CAS so it all lines up....install it and the the car SHOULD IDLE FINE but the idle sux......it dies out and when I check the timing it is off to the left(if looking towards teh back of the car) I adjust the CAS(once it is installed) and it lowers the yellow mark but not enough while at the same time killing the car......right now it idles at around 500 RPM......I thik the Airflow SENSOR will fix this tho



OY I HAVE TO LOOK INTO THIS MORE THOUROUGHLY



I have replacement rotors so I think I'll change them.....new pads will be nice too.


i'M ON A PARTS HUNT NOW.....THANKS YOU GUYS.......

 

I am off to the FOR SALE SECTION!!!

 

Okay, are we talking about the same RPM's?
The ECU changes the ignition timing depending on RPM's.
It has to be idling at 750 (+ or - 50RPM) for the CAS to be lined up with the yellow mark.


-Ted

 

it won't line up.....but it won't idle either...it dies...the idle is not stable........I will have my GF try to keep it alive at 700-800 RPMs.....will post results tonight!

NEW FINDING!!! the clutch pedal goies down when I use the brakes........when this happens I lose hydraulic pressure and the clutch does not engage!!! I will try to find a cheap Brake master cylinder and replace the slva also.......does this sound like a good idea?

 

Bought NEW Tokiko units (slave and master cylinders clutch) cylinders for 59 bux shipped.