a buttload of RUST under the spare tire, and on the metal of the hatch floor near both taillights.

You know those little tubes to pipe the (rain)water from the outside of the hatch down to the bottom of the car? Well one was pinched and leaking, and the other one had no tube at all!!!! Talk about your mickey mouse bodywork jobs... apparently after it was hit some time ago in the rear quarter (by the gas tank), the frickin idiots never bothered putting the tube back on, so hello rust!

I found this while taking out the interior in the back of the car, and I'm thinking about a full interior swap to black now (unrelated to rust). So before I find a new interior and try to put it in, does anyone have any recommendations of what I should do about that rust? Is there anything I can do? I figure I'll probably just have to leave it

one other Q:
does anyone know how to get those damn plastic "tab-plug-pseudo screw thingys" from the interior off without totally destroying them? I've just been prying with a flathead screwdriver and they just snap half of the time. When I find a car to strip, I want to keep those things in good shape...

 

also, if anyone has access to a full black interior, let me know. (The one I'm taking out is the fugly blue one)

 

if it's not completely through, try por-15 at http://www.porstore.com/ or if it is, they have some neat epoxies and stuff...

 

If there are no rust holes, use some rust remover and then paint it to spot from more rust. I get the plastic pieces out by using needle nose pliers. Plastic will break when old.

 

I find fingernails and bit bit of pain will get those plastic plugs out.

 

Cut it out nd replace. POR-15 is trash!
Use Zero rust! www.zerorust.com

 

I use a tack puller on all those pesky interior fasteners. Makes life much easier. I got one at Sears for like $5. It's also the kind of tool the FSM recommends.

 

you just have to pull from both sides of the tab and wiggle it back and forth, it comes out without breaking, first you have to pull it out a little with a flathead screwdriver so your fingers can fit under it though.

im replacing my interior too with a black one, where did you find the carpet and stuff?

 

oh, I haven't yet but I'm anticipating going to the junkyards.. sometimes there are some mint interiors around. A friend has swapped 2 FC interiors so I'm going to enlist him for some help and advice I think.

 

hey banzaitoyota, can that Zerorust stuff be applied to rust spots or is it for treatment to prevent rust or what? their web site really isn't very informative. how have you used their product?

 

I found a fork works pretty well..

 

Actually, I've had the extreme displeasure of having had to use it (Displeasure from rust, not por-15). I would have to say it's a kickass product, and I've never encountered a single problem from it. What trouble did it cause you?

 

that sucks

 

I think you can also buy new plastic clip things at pep boys.

 

I have used Zero-Rust and POR-15. I dislike POR-15 for the following reasons:
1. I had it flake off in sheets off the bottom of the 914-6 I used it on. Surface prep was in accordance with the MFG's directions.
2. It is a PITA to clean up.
3. Unused portion in a can soon hardens, extremely wasteful (This occured even with a ARGON purge on the can prior to closing lid).

Zero rust went on god, sticks and is easy to clean up. Product doesn't harden in the can. I use it on the hidden side of all repairs.

For more info try www.paintucation.com

 

Same problem here. If there's ever minor rear end damage, the drain plug is the first thing to pop out. And them water seaps in.

Also, the lip above the license plate is prone to rust, especially if in a salty environment (ocean / northern). I need to weld a piece on the convertible to replace the rusted out one. No, you can't see it normally.

 

While Banzaitoyota has pretty much covered the bases as to many of ZR's benefits, I'd like to respond to bingoboy's questions and comment, as others may also have similar thoughts:
Our website covers the basics, maybe not in minute detail, but ZR is designed to be used in virtually any situation, whether repairing steel or with new fabrications.
It's easy to work with and apply, forgiving as to the amount of required prep work, meaning it can be applied over good, solid, tight rusty surfaces OR over a white metal.
The closer you get it to the steel, the better, but we all know it ain't an ideal world and for most DIYer's, ZR has become a god send for this very reason. Its easy repairability (if dinged up or you weld on your project) is yet another real benefit. Aerosols or bulk make this benefit even easier and more cost effective.
ZR isn't intended to be a substitute for your automotive paint system's primer if that's the concern, although it has been used as such. It is ideally suited for use on the "backsides" of everything on your rig: splash pans, engine compartments, trunks, floor pans -inside & out, window channels, axles, tranny, motors, interiors of doors, etc., etc.
There are any number of examples of its actual use by ZR users cited on our Link's page where they are identified as such. Check us out and we're confident you will, like Banzaitoyota, become a believer!
HTH
WK Irish
See ya' on the net at www.zerorust.com

 

So there's 2 "no rust" products on the market then. One actually chemically combines with rust and stops it. This one just starves it to keep it from spreading.

So the steps to color match your car to OEM paint would be: Sand, bondo (in grey) any dings, zerorust (in grey), primer (in grey), wetsand, main coat, wetsand, clearcoat.

If there's rust and dings, then I guess you'd want to zerorust first.

 

Bummer dude I feal ya. I had a 1965 Mustang so you can guess where 50% of my boddy work time went into.