GTU-TII running strong, reveiw my mods please.
03-06-06, 03:20 PM
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GTU-TII running strong, reveiw my mods please.
The streets of Anchorage dried out for a few hours yesterday,
& I was finally able to test drive my GTU-TII conversion.
It's FAST!.. DAMN FAST!!
I'm really stoked!,.. also a bit worried.
It was boosting to 15psi..
34 degrees outside, and the highest octane pump gas up here is 90.
I guess I better start mixing toulene?
Can someone please look through my mod list & make any suggestions on how to keep my motor safe.
this is my third RX-7, but my first turbo 7.
i've learned alot building it, but still have much to learn,...& don't want the tuff lesson of a popped motor.
I've tried messing with the HKS wastegate actuator, I have it set to open at 8psi, but I still get 15psi. 'starting to wonder if this thing works. I need to test when it opens.
It dosn't seem like a spike really, seems to stay solid at 15psi.
Is this OK as long as I have the fuel for it?,..
my 4x550's are doing well enough acording to the wideband.
or do I have to worry about timing?
My timing is set as per the FSM,
Should that change at all since i'm boosting so much?
Is there anyway to controll it short of a standalone?
I can't afford to go that route for a while.
If I can't afford($) to controll the timing should I reduce the the boost by putting in some sort of restrictions? or porting the wastegate some more?
I ported it quite a bit,.. but maybe not enough, I dunno.
I'd hate to have to pull the turbo again.
Would it help to get a more restrictive air filter than my cheap ebay cone?
Is this all just because its cold out?
Will my boost get lower when it warms up?
Any helpfull suggestions greatly appreciated,
Thanks!
-Chris
1990 GTU
--------------------------------
S5 jspec 13B,
S5 TII trans,
Mazdatrix TII driveshaft,
S4 TII diff,
Mazda Competition Engine & Transmission mounts,
ACT street/strip clutch,
3" TID,
ebay cone filter,
ducted CAI box,
Knightsports FCD,
Fuel pump rewire,
wallbro 255,
stock 4x550cc injectors cleaned by witchhunter,
Apexi SAFCII wired to the pressure sensor,
Innovate LC-1 & XD-1 wideband w/laptop for datalogging,
dual pully FD3S alternator,
TB Mod,
portmatched intake,
FMIC w/2.5" pipe
Greddy BOV,
Autometer boost gauge,
Thunderfab 80mm DP,
Racing Beat catback,
ported wastegate,
HKS wastegate actuator for S5 RX-7 - 8 to 14 psi adjustable,
No emissions, No A/C, No P/S, No Stereo or speakers.
& I was finally able to test drive my GTU-TII conversion.
It's FAST!.. DAMN FAST!!
I'm really stoked!,.. also a bit worried.
It was boosting to 15psi..
34 degrees outside, and the highest octane pump gas up here is 90.
I guess I better start mixing toulene?
Can someone please look through my mod list & make any suggestions on how to keep my motor safe.
this is my third RX-7, but my first turbo 7.
i've learned alot building it, but still have much to learn,...& don't want the tuff lesson of a popped motor.
I've tried messing with the HKS wastegate actuator, I have it set to open at 8psi, but I still get 15psi. 'starting to wonder if this thing works. I need to test when it opens.
It dosn't seem like a spike really, seems to stay solid at 15psi.
Is this OK as long as I have the fuel for it?,..
my 4x550's are doing well enough acording to the wideband.
or do I have to worry about timing?
My timing is set as per the FSM,
Should that change at all since i'm boosting so much?
Is there anyway to controll it short of a standalone?
I can't afford to go that route for a while.
If I can't afford($) to controll the timing should I reduce the the boost by putting in some sort of restrictions? or porting the wastegate some more?
I ported it quite a bit,.. but maybe not enough, I dunno.
I'd hate to have to pull the turbo again.
Would it help to get a more restrictive air filter than my cheap ebay cone?
Is this all just because its cold out?
Will my boost get lower when it warms up?
Any helpfull suggestions greatly appreciated,
Thanks!
-Chris
1990 GTU
--------------------------------
S5 jspec 13B,
S5 TII trans,
Mazdatrix TII driveshaft,
S4 TII diff,
Mazda Competition Engine & Transmission mounts,
ACT street/strip clutch,
3" TID,
ebay cone filter,
ducted CAI box,
Knightsports FCD,
Fuel pump rewire,
wallbro 255,
stock 4x550cc injectors cleaned by witchhunter,
Apexi SAFCII wired to the pressure sensor,
Innovate LC-1 & XD-1 wideband w/laptop for datalogging,
dual pully FD3S alternator,
TB Mod,
portmatched intake,
FMIC w/2.5" pipe
Greddy BOV,
Autometer boost gauge,
Thunderfab 80mm DP,
Racing Beat catback,
ported wastegate,
HKS wastegate actuator for S5 RX-7 - 8 to 14 psi adjustable,
No emissions, No A/C, No P/S, No Stereo or speakers.
Last edited by 13angryB's; 03-06-06 at 03:32 PM.
03-07-06, 03:44 PM
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geez, ..made it to the middle of page 3 without a responce.
sorry if the ^above post was too long or rambling..
I was excited about my car at the time I wrote it.
a little help please?
sorry if the ^above post was too long or rambling..
I was excited about my car at the time I wrote it.
a little help please?
03-07-06, 05:02 PM
#4
15psi on stock injectors is asking for a rebuild.
You may be boost creeping. That would be part COLD air outside and part wastegate inefficiency.
Did you port the wastegate at all? I needed to even though my turbo is S5.
You mention a SAFC but do not mention using it. So have you amped up the duty cycle of the 550's?
I personally go with 10psi as a safety limit. I've hit 12 and 15 and my motor is still here but I don't want to find out thge hard way.
You may be boost creeping. That would be part COLD air outside and part wastegate inefficiency.
Did you port the wastegate at all? I needed to even though my turbo is S5.
You mention a SAFC but do not mention using it. So have you amped up the duty cycle of the 550's?
I personally go with 10psi as a safety limit. I've hit 12 and 15 and my motor is still here but I don't want to find out thge hard way.
03-07-06, 07:23 PM
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I have the SAFC set around +30 give or take a few points across the high map.
my wideband was reading pretty rich under full boost, like 10.5 AFR, even when I hit 15psi.
seems like I have enough fuel, but is this too close to the max duty cycle?
I havn't had a chance to drive it much to tune the SAFC, since it started snowing again. but it looks like I should lean it out some.
but you say get 720's?
I ported the wastegate quite a bit.
'maybe could have gone a little further with it though.
my wideband was reading pretty rich under full boost, like 10.5 AFR, even when I hit 15psi.
seems like I have enough fuel, but is this too close to the max duty cycle?
I havn't had a chance to drive it much to tune the SAFC, since it started snowing again. but it looks like I should lean it out some.
but you say get 720's?
I ported the wastegate quite a bit.
'maybe could have gone a little further with it though.
Last edited by 13angryB's; 03-07-06 at 07:25 PM.
03-07-06, 07:23 PM
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What about the timing at 15psi, is the regular timeing OK, or what's all this i've heard about taking out 1deg for every 1psi over 9psi?
Is that necessary, or just to make more power?
Is that necessary, or just to make more power?
03-08-06, 03:15 PM
#7
I think the timing retard is to help give the engine qa chance to get a better burn.
I would assume it's not to make more power but to save the engine from getting to close to detonation.
Just guessing though....
I think the stock ecu doesn't retard over that number since it wasn't designed to.
FCD's also trick the ECU into thinking it's at a lower psi so you need to compensate with the SAFC.
10.5 AFR's is rich.
I can't remember exactly but I think people shoot for mid 11 afr's. 12 being the max
As for the boost issue.
Remove your boost controller and see how much you boost. With a ported wastegate and boost governed only by the wastegate actuator you should see only 5-6 psi.
2+psi over and that is defintely boost creep.
Now VERY cold air will make you creep higher than normal. During the winter here I can hit 12-13psi when my controller is set to 10psi.
Normal days I'll stay right at 10psi.
So you won't be able to really tell if you ported the WG enough until a somewhat warm day where intake temps aren't freezing cold.
I would assume it's not to make more power but to save the engine from getting to close to detonation.
Just guessing though....
I think the stock ecu doesn't retard over that number since it wasn't designed to.
FCD's also trick the ECU into thinking it's at a lower psi so you need to compensate with the SAFC.
10.5 AFR's is rich.
I can't remember exactly but I think people shoot for mid 11 afr's. 12 being the max
As for the boost issue.
Remove your boost controller and see how much you boost. With a ported wastegate and boost governed only by the wastegate actuator you should see only 5-6 psi.
2+psi over and that is defintely boost creep.
Now VERY cold air will make you creep higher than normal. During the winter here I can hit 12-13psi when my controller is set to 10psi.
Normal days I'll stay right at 10psi.
So you won't be able to really tell if you ported the WG enough until a somewhat warm day where intake temps aren't freezing cold.
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03-11-06, 10:57 PM
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Ok cool, Thanks for the help.
I don't have a boost controller hooked up, so i guess its all creep.
Should I be worried about 15psi. if my AFR is OK?
I don't really want to wait to drive it again untill it warms up,.. That could be a While.
its 18 degrees & the streets are dry
I don't have a boost controller hooked up, so i guess its all creep.
Should I be worried about 15psi. if my AFR is OK?
I don't really want to wait to drive it again untill it warms up,.. That could be a While.
its 18 degrees & the streets are dry
03-13-06, 01:00 PM
#9
Well.
15psi isn't good for the turbo.
It generates more heat than boost(although at 18 degrees it may still be beneficial lol)
It also over spins the turbo too much which can lead to premature failure of the turbo. Safe limit is considered 12-14psi.
You said above that you were messing with an HKS wastegate actuator. So either you have a boost controller made by HKS or your using a different turbo and manifold. Unless there is some weird replacement actuator for the stock hitachi unit?
Your afr readings so far mean that your fine but how consistent will they be?
I don't know how to check injector duty cycle but I bet it's very high for 15psi on 550 injectors.
It's better the under work injectors than over work them.
15psi isn't good for the turbo.
It generates more heat than boost(although at 18 degrees it may still be beneficial lol)
It also over spins the turbo too much which can lead to premature failure of the turbo. Safe limit is considered 12-14psi.
You said above that you were messing with an HKS wastegate actuator. So either you have a boost controller made by HKS or your using a different turbo and manifold. Unless there is some weird replacement actuator for the stock hitachi unit?
Your afr readings so far mean that your fine but how consistent will they be?
I don't know how to check injector duty cycle but I bet it's very high for 15psi on 550 injectors.
It's better the under work injectors than over work them.
03-13-06, 03:13 PM
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yeah I guess the HKS actuator is boost controll, I said I had 'no controll because I took off my regular MBC.
The HKS actuator is an adjustable replacement for the stock actuator.
http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=665&rsku=5355
looks like one of these, (only pic I could find)
I might scan & post the directions, that way if anyone can translate I can see if I have it hooked up right,.. lol
The HKS actuator is an adjustable replacement for the stock actuator.
http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=665&rsku=5355
looks like one of these, (only pic I could find)
I might scan & post the directions, that way if anyone can translate I can see if I have it hooked up right,.. lol
Last edited by 13angryB's; 03-13-06 at 03:16 PM.
03-13-06, 07:23 PM
#12
Your boost control problem probably stems from your free flowing TID and 3 inch exhaust. The wastegate actuator is really easy to check... just watch it move on a dyno under load. Yes, you can port the stock wastegate as much as possible, but chances are you'll still have boost control problems with your free flowing intake and exhaust; it's just not big enough... you need about 42mm, which probably means another turbo.
And as you've already touched on, your boost issue is really a problem because you don't have a means to control timing. Stand alone would be the only way to fly with additional boost... Haltech, Microtech... I wouldn't waste my money on an SAFC because you still aren't controlling timing; just adding fuel.
Also, if your going for big boost... you'll need 720 primaries and bigger secondaries, so you don't max out the duty cycle on your injectors.
Josh
And as you've already touched on, your boost issue is really a problem because you don't have a means to control timing. Stand alone would be the only way to fly with additional boost... Haltech, Microtech... I wouldn't waste my money on an SAFC because you still aren't controlling timing; just adding fuel.
Also, if your going for big boost... you'll need 720 primaries and bigger secondaries, so you don't max out the duty cycle on your injectors.
Josh
Last edited by JoshRX7; 03-13-06 at 07:25 PM.
03-14-06, 11:54 PM
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My wideband o2 sensor is about halfway between the turbo & the catback,
positioned at One-o-clock on the pipe.
---------------------------------------------------------------
I have the HKS actuator figured out.
dam, I need to pay more attention to detail..
I had the nipple on the turbo hooked to the semi-circle metal tubing that goes around the turbo inlet, & then to the actuator,..
Since I don't have emissions, I had a vac cap on the one vac nipple in the middle of the the metal tubes.
The cap I used was too big & it was leaking, causing the actuator to not open as soon.
So I'm unhooking the metal vac tubes from the turbo,
& running the the vac line directly from the nipple to the actuator.
It ott'a work now.
I'll post back after I can test drive, & I'll try a some different arm lengths & see how it does at controlling the boost.
positioned at One-o-clock on the pipe.
---------------------------------------------------------------
I have the HKS actuator figured out.
dam, I need to pay more attention to detail..
I had the nipple on the turbo hooked to the semi-circle metal tubing that goes around the turbo inlet, & then to the actuator,..
Since I don't have emissions, I had a vac cap on the one vac nipple in the middle of the the metal tubes.
The cap I used was too big & it was leaking, causing the actuator to not open as soon.
So I'm unhooking the metal vac tubes from the turbo,
& running the the vac line directly from the nipple to the actuator.
It ott'a work now.
I'll post back after I can test drive, & I'll try a some different arm lengths & see how it does at controlling the boost.
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