Pic.

 

I hate this, someone teach me how to host these pics.

 

This is the worst form of post whoring I have ever seen.

 

 

 

Last one, thank you for hosting them Banzai.

 

 

It isn't pretty, but it works and it was cheap.

If you are confused, my car is a first gen. with a Turbo 2 motor in it, so that is why my engine bay looks different.

 

I think you did a pretty clean job of wiring it. Good job.

How do you like how it runs now?

 

It runs great!

Idle is solid, lights are bright, my air/ fuel meter works, the dome light didn't work, but now it does.

 

I don't see that bolt where the wire attach too on my engine. Is that only on a Turbo engine?? If so, where would a good grounding point be on a N/A block????
Thx.


LoS

 

I think you can attach it to one of the bolts that hold the tranny and engine together.

I was going to connect it to one of the rotor housings before I remembered that they are aluminum

 

Why cant you attach a ground to aluminum???
Really I dont know...
Kim

 

AL is a gread conductor! All the wires bringing you power to your house to run your computer right now are AL. (high tension lines are AL) They just don't do so well in houses for the high current draw in that small of a guage. There is no reason not to use the rotor housings as a ground location if it's convienient.

 

Umm... aluminum is a perfectly fine conductor of electricity. Your side housings are aluminum. How do you think your spark plugs still work if it was a bad conductor?

 

I guess I never thought of it.

I just went with what I knew.

Thanks guys, now I know more!

 

Your battery will drop the voltage down to an acceptable level, most alternators turn out about 14 volts.

BTW, is 70 amps the nominal output for a 2nd gen alternator?

 

In car audio, that situation usually causes all kinds of noise from having multiple ground paths, causes huge voltage drops. I'm not 100% sure if it does the same with non-audio components, but it would make sense. Just replacing that ground with the 4 gauge would probably function better.

I think one user posted installing of the the circle earth grounding systems, said his electrical system was much better after the install. One ground point elimates the differences in ground potentials between different points in the car. Resoldering all connections and regrounding are the first things I will do when I can afford my beater GXL.

 

In car audio, the only potential problem from multiple grounding points is system noise from ground loops acting as antennae. There is no ******* way having additional grounds will lower voltage. If anything it will raise it, as the resistence is reduced allowing more current to flow.

The single earthing systems work well because you tie everything to a single point which you can then make absolutely positive is grounded. The chasis on a uni-body car is more than capable of handling the task of grounding the electrical system. Corrosion and bad connections are the problems encountered with using it. Using a single ground point is the lazy way of fixing problems. Going through and cleaning the original grounds would likely yield the discovery of corroded wires and connections.

BTW: A noisy alternator is a good one. Meaning the more juice the alt is producing the more EFI it emits.

 

I wanna try to add some grounds this week cause I'm having major charging problems, and I'm not sure if its the alternator or lack of good grounds.

So where will I wanna run them?

- Terminal to Chassis
- Terminal to Alt
Chassis to engine

What else?

And do I just grab a bunch of 8 guage wire or so and start connecting it?
Also, where do you find those heavy duty terminals like in the pics above? Any place I go they just have em for smaller guage wire.

 

The wires I used were already made, I just unbolted some bolts and threw them in.

I have seen grounding kits with 10 gauge wires, I used 4 gauge because that is what was closest to me in the store.

 

Before isntalling the additional grounds, my voltage meter never passed 12 volts, and my O2 gauge was working great. After adding the additional grounds (battery to strut tower, alternator to strut tower) the voltage guages were reading 14 volts, but my 02 gauge was not working right at all. It was just doing wacked out things, like only one bar at a time, but random readings. I'm hopeing after installing the ground wire on the exhaust and the ground wire located in the area near the O2 sensor, my O2 gauge will work again. Hopefully the ECU is not reading that my 02 is reading.

LoS

 

Does that wire going from the Altenator mounting post go to the - or the + on the battery.. i see it goes from the altenator mount bolt but than what lead on the battery. thanks a bunch.

Markus

I think everyone has had problems with their FC at one point in time (as far as charging systems go)

 

From the alternator bracket it goes to the negative terminal on your battery.

 

ok, so if i run a wire from the altenator Bracket to the neg on the batt than from the negg on the batt to the chassis is should solve a couple problems right?

I allready have a grounding strap going from my engine (where my P/S bracket use to be) to my strut tower. It didnt help anything

Here's whats happening when i shift :from 2nd to 3rd: i get a volt drop (i see it in the volt meter) when i go from 3rd to 4th i get the same thing, than from 4th to 5th.. WTF is causeing my Volt meter to act like a boost guage. It drops to the line above 8 for a sec. than shoots back up to just under or right on 12.

I've tried all grounding... even have a new batt and a new alt.. new teminal connectors and everything.