nataku

When I start up my S5, shifting into gear doesn't feel very smooth at all, and if i'm downshifting, i have to drop the rpm's to really low and drop to a really low speed to gear down without grinding. (ex. down to about 20-30km'h to shift into 2nd from 3rd, and I HAVE to be completely stopped to shift into first). If I try to force the gear it, it'll grind usually. But once my car warms up, shifting is relatively smooth.

However, I get the occasional 3rd gear grind which i suspect might be the synchros. But i have no idea about why it's so hard to shift while my car is not warmed up yet. Anybody have any ideas on it?

MountainTurbo

My car is very hard to shift initially on cold days. Once the oil warms up, the shifter moves MUCH easier. So, it could just be that the oil is cold. How cold is it where you are?

hIGGI

iTrader: (7)

How OLD is your transmission oil? If too old, replace it with some Redline stuff

YearsOfDecay

My car is like that,,, and my buddies 3rd gen is the same way... I double clutch it to downshit into 1st!! that works great and gives me an excuse to rev 'er up!!

Try double clutching it into first.

I have no problems after it gets warmed up. I am going to rebuild the tranny while the engine is out and put some redline in 'er.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Listen to Higgi. Put some RedLine/synthetic in the trans.
Works wonders on cold days. The trans lubricant congeals when cold therefore giving no lubricity to internals.
Try this when car cold. After starting, while in neutral let out the clutch and listen for the engine RPM's to drop due to resistance in trans.

gambone

iTrader: (3)

OK this is what's going on when it is realy cold and mazda calls for 90w but you can motor oil, the blocking rings that what they are called in the maxda service book (singcrows) have what looks like thresds cut into them like tread on a tire once they wear down like tred on a tire they hydoplane, like thick oil 90w in the winter time, and will not sink down and clutch the hub, they are in short terms is a CONE CLUTCH some thing that goaes way back. does that help any.Isuzu calls for the same oil that is used in the motor, most ohter car makers including Mazda front wheel drive use DEXII or motor oil.just something to think on

nataku

well it's not too cold here, usually above 0. And I got the transmission fluid changed a little while ago, maybe like 6 months ago. It "should" be ok. I'll try out redline next time i change it.

Are syncro's easy/expensive to replace?

sunshine

iTrader: (3)

I had Redline in the tranny and it was still doing exactly as described.

Now, for the bad news...3 days after I experienced this grinding - I lost both 1st and 2nd gears and now haveto get a new tranny.

Hope your does not share the same fate.
-a

trainwreck517

iTrader: (1)

Make sure that your not low on gear oil.

nataku

how would u check if it's low? will it be pretty visible once i remove the shift boot and ****?

nataku

and what kind of gear oil is recommended?

JerryLH3

iTrader: (11)

The gear oil in the shifter housing is separate from what's in the tranny.

To check the trannsmission fluid level, remove the fill plug on the driver's side of the transmission. The fluid should be level with the bottom of the plug. Stick your finger in to check.

sunshine

iTrader: (3)

Also, Please NOTE: whenever doing a tranny fluid change or a diff fluid change it is imperative that you remove the fill plug first and only once the fill plug is off, you should drain the fluid.

You do not want to be in a situation where you drained the fluid , but cannot refill it.

Snrub

iTrader: (1)

It's been super cold lately so you probably can't fix the problem completely. If you switch to a synthetic 75W90 for your transmission it will improve the situation.