Has anyone used a Griffin Radiator in their Rx-7? They are about half the price of a Fluidyne. If you have, what model did you get (I don't think they make a direct FC3S replacement) and what modification, if any, did it require. Thanks

 

Griffin makes 5 different series of radiators. The top of the line is the HP Max series, which is going to cost much more than a drop-in Fluidyne. I don't know of any drop-in Griffin radiators for the FC, but there is probably a performance shop somewhere that sells one. For a custom radiator, you will need to give Griffin the external dimensions, as well as the points of where to mount the engine inlet and outlet, heater return, draincock, bleeder valve, coolant level sensor bung, mounting brackets, etc.
http://griffinrad.com/

 

Thanks for the reply. I'll give them a call. I might just get lucky if some has already given them the dimensions.
As the next cost alternate if the Griffin gets to be a hassle is the Koyo. Do you know if the Koyo has the mounting points for the stock fan shroud and level sensor?

 

Summit sells griffin radiators for ~$200, but they are Ford or Chevy universal. A new top or bottom radiator hose will need to be run, depending on which model you choose.

 

I have installed one just last week into an 88 vert with t2 conversion I performed. IT was a universal chevy ordered from summit. IT fit so snug as if it were made for the car. IIRC it was a 26x19 chevy. I had to run a new upper radiator hose, and since he wanted to keep his heater, I had to custom-make an inline tee for the heatercore lead to the lower rad. hose. I can supply pics if you need. When it was done, I didnt even see a need to weld the brackets up for it, it sat so snugly in place.

 

Kevin, Did you or can you take pics? I have a griffin 27x19 in my suburban that might be relegated to the scrap heap as I can get a better rig for 300 bucks sans motor and my 300hp 355ci might find a new home leaving me with a spare griffin...

 

wonder if this bitch will let me attatch anything...

hell ******* no. Ill have to host em, hold on.

 

 

Sorry but I didnt take any with the engine bay empty. It was a VERY close fit, more so than the stocker. There wasnt more than 1/4" on each side empty. Obviously there is no allotment for the cold startup sensor, or the heatercore splitoff. I had clearance problems with the p. side a/c aluminum line, but I was able to tweak it so that the rad. would fit in spite of it (read: bend). Also I had to relocate/reroute the wiring harness that attatches to the pass. side frame rail, and I had to trim the battery tray of its p. side facing slot for the battery tiedown.

 

I was doing measurements of mine when the motor was out this fall and figured I'd need longer oil cooler lines and the battery out back to make it work.

I'm really tempted to take after it with the tig and make a custom double pass out of the thing and relocate the inlet to the passenger side. I just wonder how well the adhesive sealant they use handles welding.

 

It looked like a really well made part, but it also looked like any attempt at welding would be unsuccessful. however, youre probably a much better welder than I also Really, having the inlet on the opposing side isnt a problem to me, in practice or theory. That is a stock upper rad hose cut in half, and a $3 piece of 1-7/8" exhaust pipe. Plus, You can be sure that it (in theory) cools better than the stocker, or any unit with both inlets on teh same side, as coolant is forced to flow across the radiator as opposed to possibly moving straight down.

 

I actually have an unfair advantage when it comes to welding AL. I worked with a prof at my university who's an "old salt" car modifier. He's made 1 ton 4x4 ranchero wagons with mercury big blocks and all kinds of other homebrew **** in his day. He actually helped me think through my porting of my motor in its final stages before the grinder hit the irons too. Well, this guy can weld anything and make it strong and pretty. I hold my own on steel, but he kicks some major *** on AL.

I know there is no logical reason to necessitate the relocation of the inlet other than asthetics. I have no technical problems with your crossover plumbing other than the fact there are two more seams that need to be kept from leaking. That is not a real concern either. With a proper bead along the edges of that pipe you should never have problems with it. I didn't add that bead and had a hose pop off a similar setup on another car I put a griffin in. Only made that mistake once. (griffins are great radiators for all of you wondering. I've installed a handfull of them over the years and have never had a problem)

The coolant passing across the length of the radiator twice is likely to be just as effective as leaving it alone and having the coolant move slower and only in one direction. I'd simply prefer to keep the area in front of my motor as vacant as it is now. I like having people really get a good look at how small my motor is after I waxed their ***.

2 months after last scaring him off, the old bastard in his brand new thunderchicken came back out tonight. I only wish I had been feeling better so I could run his *** into hiding for another couple mo's. Being sick sucks. (I was already in bed when my buddy called me to come stomp on him again) His time will come soon enough.

 

Check out the pictures of my Howe Dual pass radiator. It measures 19x28 and has the inlet and outlet on the same side. The inlet is the same diameter stock too. You'll need a reducer for the lower and a small pipe welded for the heater core. However, to fit this radiator you'll need slightly longer than stock oil cooler lines and a battery relocation, and the AC too. However, they do make smaller verisons. But they're all $259.00 from summit racing

http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/member...iew&car_id=307

HRE-34326RNF 20x26
HRE-34327RNF 16x28
HRE-34328R 19 5/8"x 27 3/4" <---one on my car
and many more.

One thing though, the RNF is right side inlet/outlet with NO fill neck. So if you use a S4 thermostat housing an put a pressure cap in place of the locking cap (I believe that's correct) and drill and tap a place for an over flow nipple.

 

hypntyz7


Thanks for the pics!
Im gonna use my stock rad from my 10 AE on my FB now,and then get this same style or exact rad,Can you showed em the "T" you made or had made for the heater?

BTW can any of you gusy please answer this for me.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=172266

I just want to know if its a 2 or 3 row for the stock rad

 

Thanks guys- great response to the question. Pics were a great help. I know a guy that put a griffin in a 240Sx, and the radiator looked like it was built really well. For the $250 difference in the Griffin and Fluidyne, it looks like its more than worth the effort. Thanks again