Grappler

iTrader: (6)

Update time again...

Well lets see I have gotten a bit more done since the last time I posted here.

Tapped and Threaded EGT Fitting




I started porting out the LIM after destroying several High speed cutoff discs hewing a rough shape out my dremel died...
So I took it to FNR and they are going to finish for me (thanks guys)



I Modified my S4 waste gate to fit the S5 turbo and it works !!!! this made me very happy a little snug but the actuator works fine and the movement of the flapper is not impeded that I can tell.

(I had a cold so don't laugh)

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I also before my dremel died cut up the CF Gauge holder I got from summit and made it so I could fit a 60mm gauge
I think I might place the gauge in the glove-box and open it when I need to tune since I am slightly leaning towards a sleeper look



Got my HKS Filter all mocked up onto the AFM and I do have a replacement element on the way its just taking forever to get here... good thing I bought 2



Turbo and Manifold all bolted up and looking amazing in the engine bay I still have to install all of the lines like oil and coolant feed and drain but its on the list of things to do still.



I also managed to find a rubber coupler to install a make shift TID 3" to 2" will work for now till I get something proper put in.



few other things as well I can't remember off hand or don't have pictures of but keep looking for updates.

1SWEET7

iTrader: (1)

Cool. Your making progress. You should ditch that HKS filter though. When they break down you end up sucking little pieces of that foam into your engine.

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

that sucks.... what would u recommend? an apexi power intake?

George84

Yea its one of the best, that's what I run, they come with a really good mounting bracket to hold it all in place too. I will look for a comparison chart of air filters for you.

George84

here ya go http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/

1SWEET7

iTrader: (1)

I would recommend K&N. There is another good comparison that was in a thread recently around here somewhere too.

Bwek

iTrader: (4)

for the oil drain you could have used the stock s4 oil drain


for the oil feed make sure you make it from hardline im assuming you are taking it from the oil pressure sensor (it'll be cheaper and look better)

If you go to home depot they have sanding drums that attach to a drill and one of them is the perfect size for the porting job and it literally takes 30 mins to finish the job... i used a small drill bit and used that to get the size and rough in for it and the drum smoothed it out

You are using an S4 lim? i hope its, alittle bit different than the S5 Oh wait nevermind s5 can go on to s4 easier i was thinking vice versa

what are you using for engine management?

Oh and make sure you use t2 upper and lower fuel rails they dont mix with the n/a ones unless you cross the fuel lines

lonetlan

Is this a N/A to turbo build? Its very interesting...

dawicka2

I have put 6,000 miles on my hks filter foam and have had no issues with it breaking down.

A buddy's s13 has had it much longer with absolutely no problems.

I don't think a quality company like HKS would continuously sell a bullshit product.

Do what you want though, it is your filter........and i HAVE heard of this complaint via the internet (just never seen or heard it in person).

john ny

Grappler

iTrader: (6)

Thanks its good to get some feed back.
I have heard about people having issues with the filters most of them are cheapskates who don't want to spend $25 on a filter element they wash them and wonder why it disintegrates.

I could do that I haven't set up the drain yet I am debating between tapping the front housing or the oil pan I have AN fittings for both though we shall see.

I am using an oil filter pedstal and using a modified hardline that came with the pedastal when I bought it.

I killed my dremel

It lines up very nicely I just need to finish getting it ported

Rtek 2.1

Primary fuel rails are the same
Secondaries won't line up so I used a turbo secondary fuel rail


Yes its an N/a turbo build

I am getting 2 new elements in the mail so I should be good to go

I totally agree with you though it shouldn't cause any problems.

Bwek

iTrader: (4)

Nooo primaries are not the same i made the same mistake on my car i had fuel starvation about 5k because the FPR was on the wrong way

then again i tryed it with a s5 n/a primary and s4 secondary :/ looked the same at the time lmao

Nice rtek will run it mint I'm using an emanage i prefer tuning via a laptop than a pda i'm still using the n/a primary injectors and t2 secondary result is it drives exactly like a stock n/a when out of boost and below 4000 rpm

Good luck with the build dude you're going to love slapping t2's around lol

just make sure you get a wideband and keep an eye on knock

seriously dont tap the oil pan the front cover already is already setup for the oil drain the bolt holes are already tapped all you have to do is drill the hole for the oil to go through, just pack the drill bit with grease so it catches some of the shavings and change the oil after or flush some oil through that hole to get the shavings.

thats what i did on my S5

Grappler

iTrader: (6)

Allright so its that lovely update time again

First thing I found out is Racing Beat resonator is not a direct Main cat replacement its about 3 inches too long for it which made a few headaches...
so the main cat is back on all the horsepower robbing goodness of it.
Second Thing is I found out how much of a pain it is going to be to drop the oil pan which is the main reason I didn't get to go to the auto x class this weekend
Third I found out the efan I had is bad so... either its back to the good old clutch fan or I find a new efan... which isn't a bad thing just means I have to more conservative with my IC piping.
Fourth thing SS line hurts the fingers a plenty wear gloves

Anyways on to the pics

Here is the Modified LIM I made took forever with a dremel.
I also put up a couple close ups of the port work.




Here is the SS parallel fuel system I have setup before its installed its -6an line running to the hard-lines
That red tube thing is a 40 micron fuel filter Surprisingly I only used about 10feet of SS line to make the fuel system.


And here we have it installed in the car that's an Aeromotive FPR mounted to the firewall and that blue vacuum line will be hooked up to the LIM Soon


Here we have the turbo mounted up properly with the main cat installed not the resonator...
I ended up blocking off the water cooling lines all it does it help cool down the turbo. So as long as I let it cool down properly i.e. let it sit for a few min at idle I should be good to go.



I finally have most of the wiring done in the engine bay I have rewired the FD alternator
to work in my FC and it may look shoddy but its hard to hook up 4 wires of totally different gauges together.
All that's left to to as far is wiring is concerned is hookup the A2w pump and fan to the electrical relay and from the relay the harness.
I need to mount the reservoir and pump first though
Now I have the UIM manifold and TB installed here I have hooked up a brand spanking new TPS (most expensive part of the car I swear)
I also hooked up the IAT sensor everything lines up with the fuel system so thats all good.



I started to run the IC piping and heres a nice picture of how the DSM bov is going to sit in the car.
Since I might have to reinstall the clutch fan I have figured out a strange way to route the IC piping if it works.

Grappler

iTrader: (6)

Part 2


Last picture I promise for today Heres how the engine bay is sitting as of yesterday it looks good and I am happy I am getting so close to being done.
Its been hard to keep motivated to finish but my lovely assistant helps keep me going.



Ok I lied one more picture this one is of my lovely assistant helping me install a new filter element on my HKS filter



Things to do before its finished:
Tighten Downpipe nuts
Attach Oil feed line to the turbo
Tap Pan and attach oil drain.
Attach Fuel Feed line to the hardline
Remove old Fuel Filter
Mount A2w Resevoir
Mount and wire A2w Pump
Finish IC and IC pipe running
Run Vac line for boost sensor
Wire in Gauges

Start car

Grappler

iTrader: (6)

Yeah... so more pictures

Current Photos before I left yesterday night.



Sorry for the crappy quality
IC piping as it sits right now I wish I had that efan working but $$$ is getting a little tight so this will have to do for now. Its not the best routing but it works still is a lot of bends though. I eventually will get an Efan again and re route the piping for better flow.




Mounted the resevoir finally :happydance: its going to sit like a modified Vmount setup I have seen a few people do this on rx7club forums they say it works great for them so who am I to argue. I am also going to mount a 7 inch fan to this thing to pull air from under the car. Maybe even rig up a scoop or something just ideas floating around for now though.



The Resevoir sits really well I had to bend a couple of the A/C hardlines a bit but its never really worked anyways so I am not too worried about it I need to grab another couple of things to totally secure it but for now its a good test fit.




Things Left to do

Mount and wire A2w Pump
Finish IC and IC pipe running
Wire In Gauges

Start Car

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

Great progress, that piping though.... :/

Grappler

iTrader: (6)

well I couldn't help it but I redid the inter-cooler piping and found my leaky o ring that was making gas puddle under the car.

Much nicer now


This little bugger caused me all sorts of problems.

13B Etc

iTrader: (2)

barnett87rx7

iTrader: (1)

I would really consider running the coolant to the turbo ..... the turbo's are inefficient as it is and the hotter it gets the worse it will be, and you dont want your turbo over heating and blowing

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

+1 ... especially since its not like you have a good reason not to, it looks like all the lines are there, all you need is a gasket or 2.

Looks like you prolly could've done it w/ 8ft
Have you pressure tested those lines yet? I did that exact setup on a previous TII, SS lines were a pain in the *** (well...in the fingers to be accurate) and it took a few adjustments to fix all the little leaks. I'm gonna re-vamp my current fuel system, but I'm either going w/ nylon or a push-lok type hose this time around.

Also, this coupler WILL melt. It's fine to get it running and sort out preliminary issues but it is far from a long term solution .

Grappler

iTrader: (6)

I am picking up some hoses and I will run a line to the nipple on the rear housing and one to the water pump housing.

Haha yeah I have a little extra.

I made one line and then I bought something called a Koul tool best money I ever spent.

I did pressure test the lines I needed to tighten a couple of fittings but its all good now.


Thats been switched out for a proper TID

Grappler

iTrader: (6)

Wow... its been 5 months since I posted anything...

Well... Its started but wouldn't hold an idle for a while so I brought it to MAP or Modern Automotive Performance they did some awesome work on my car and found about a million and a half boost leaks that they fixed so it holds a proper idle. They also found a few things that I need to fix like a motor mount that this whole time had been held on by a standard nut instead of metric so it was stripped out, and they fixed my oil drain so oil wasn't running out of my down pipe basically all the things i did wrong they fixed and they were awesome to deal with so huge shout out to them.

Downside is things are back on my to do list... again

:things to do:
Replace motormount
Replace leaky BOV/recirculate
Get Efan and optimise I/C piping.

Parts sitting in my room right now...

Huge Efan
Himni Racing Motor mounts slightly stiffer than stock but should be ok for DD
Greddy RS with Recirc supplies and flange
Greddy turbo timer
3" 90 degree coupler
-10 90 degree fitting for drain
Still not done ordering stuff

I also recently realized why I hate buying things from ebay...



One on the left is the one I ordered one on the right I got for free from the guy that sold me the Greddy RS
Per the Ebay ad the one on the left is supposed to have the flange mounted parallel to the pipe...
The piping is meh at best its rolled, it has a seam line that runs down the bottom of the pipe
Whoever welded this did a terrible job its not flush what so ever with the piping and the flange is warped

serves me right for trying to save a couple bucks by ordering a pipe + flange instead of 2 couplings and t clamps... grrrr

Grappler

iTrader: (6)

PROGRESS!!!!!

Turbo drain 2.0


Turbo inlet duct 2.0 (now with recirculation fitting)


New I/c piping arrangement


Efan in place (ignore the untrimmed zipties)


Whats left
Wire Efan
Install Motor Mounts
Reinstall TID and recirculate

THEN ITS DONE!!!!

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

oh god.

black89fc

iTrader: (1)

Dude where in MN your from,I did not know there were any more people drivein fc's in MN

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

looks like a botch job, sorry :[

you really should install the manifold and turbo heat shields, those paper exhaust gaskets won't last long, you really need coolant for the turbo to prolong its life, that TID..., they make fasteners specifically for attaching a fan to a radiator that are cheap and available at parts stores, though that fan may not move enough air anyway, why are you using an A2W setup?