gotten myself into a pickle of a situation...
03-24-07, 07:53 PM
#1
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gotten myself into a pickle of a situation...
not sure what i should do...
im still trying to finish my 5 lug swap... plan A was to the axles/hubs and swap that. everything went smoothly untill i reached the toe control bolt, which i still havent been able to loosen after applying tons of PB blaster. so onto plan B, remove the caliper/disc and just pull the hub off with a puller... was going good, removed both the screws in the disc with a non-pneumatic impact wrench thingy. next was removing the caliper... felt like the top bolt was gonna be a breeze... untill the head BROKE OFF!!! fuckfuckityfuckfuckfuck! now what ami i gonna do? i cant remove the caliper, cant remove the disc, cant remove the hub... 5 lug swap fucked?
god damnit all!
welp...
im still trying to finish my 5 lug swap... plan A was to the axles/hubs and swap that. everything went smoothly untill i reached the toe control bolt, which i still havent been able to loosen after applying tons of PB blaster. so onto plan B, remove the caliper/disc and just pull the hub off with a puller... was going good, removed both the screws in the disc with a non-pneumatic impact wrench thingy. next was removing the caliper... felt like the top bolt was gonna be a breeze... untill the head BROKE OFF!!! fuckfuckityfuckfuckfuck! now what ami i gonna do? i cant remove the caliper, cant remove the disc, cant remove the hub... 5 lug swap fucked?
god damnit all!
welp...
03-24-07, 08:41 PM
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since i picked my rx7 up I have noticed a major problem of the bolts oxidizing to the frame...
try torching the bolt a little and then rubber mallet ur wrech a little ... the bolt should crack.
Don't torch the bolt till it starts changing color you just want it hot, if it starts to get red your holding the torch too close and its maluable... It's what I had to do to get my calipurs (sp?) off I blasted em over and over but nothing, the torch worked great
edit~ sorry didnt see you broke a head off as well, thats not too horrible find someone with a right angle drill and drill the bolt out (use a smaller bit and when you revers it will spin the bolt if u use too big you might hit your threading)
try torching the bolt a little and then rubber mallet ur wrech a little ... the bolt should crack.
Don't torch the bolt till it starts changing color you just want it hot, if it starts to get red your holding the torch too close and its maluable... It's what I had to do to get my calipurs (sp?) off I blasted em over and over but nothing, the torch worked great
edit~ sorry didnt see you broke a head off as well, thats not too horrible find someone with a right angle drill and drill the bolt out (use a smaller bit and when you revers it will spin the bolt if u use too big you might hit your threading)
03-24-07, 08:51 PM
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sorry I'm oblivious for the broken bolt I edited it in, but I'll say again in a little better of detail.
Grab a right angle drill, can be battery operate the DeWalt one works awsome for stuff. Pick up a drill bit about 1-1 1/2 inches and I think 5 16ths is a good diameter not sure (personally I baught a drill index and I find out what size weould be good then I go buy a bit of that size makes it easier to guage things) I highly suggest a tapping drill bit not a pointed one (looks like a paddle at the top then goes to a drill) and some drill lubricant so it cuts into the bolt better. You don't need to drill in very far when the lubricant dries you can revers out and it will take the bolt out with it
~edit~ another thing you can do if the drill wont work (I only suggest this if the drill doesnt work) is they have drill bit grinding rods now ... basically its a grinding wheel shaped as a drill bit and u can drill about 1/16 smaller than your bolt (you can get a lil more less but if its too small the bolt wont be brittle enough to crack apart) and after your done drilling just wack inside with a screwdriver and the last breaks apart ... seriously you need a really steady hand or make a guide for that though I have only done it once or twice so far ~edit~
lol sadly I have broken hundreds of bolts on my monte and so far 4 on my rx7
Grab a right angle drill, can be battery operate the DeWalt one works awsome for stuff. Pick up a drill bit about 1-1 1/2 inches and I think 5 16ths is a good diameter not sure (personally I baught a drill index and I find out what size weould be good then I go buy a bit of that size makes it easier to guage things) I highly suggest a tapping drill bit not a pointed one (looks like a paddle at the top then goes to a drill) and some drill lubricant so it cuts into the bolt better. You don't need to drill in very far when the lubricant dries you can revers out and it will take the bolt out with it
~edit~ another thing you can do if the drill wont work (I only suggest this if the drill doesnt work) is they have drill bit grinding rods now ... basically its a grinding wheel shaped as a drill bit and u can drill about 1/16 smaller than your bolt (you can get a lil more less but if its too small the bolt wont be brittle enough to crack apart) and after your done drilling just wack inside with a screwdriver and the last breaks apart ... seriously you need a really steady hand or make a guide for that though I have only done it once or twice so far ~edit~
lol sadly I have broken hundreds of bolts on my monte and so far 4 on my rx7
03-24-07, 08:57 PM
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i hope it wouldnt have come to that... but... one question...
the bracket that the caliper is bolted to (in the rear) is that threaded, or is it just the caliper assembly?
the bracket that the caliper is bolted to (in the rear) is that threaded, or is it just the caliper assembly?
03-24-07, 09:04 PM
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I don't know about all RX7's but from what I have seen (disc) the fronts are slid onto the rotor and the calipur has the threading and the rear (disc) the bracket has the threading
4 piston calipur (big square one) has threads
1 piston calipur (looks like any other really) no thread
4 piston calipur (big square one) has threads
1 piston calipur (looks like any other really) no thread
03-24-07, 09:04 PM
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ez out! ez out! Ez outs were made for that stuff! I need to go pick one up for my thermostat housing. It got sheered when i was taking it off. But home depot, or lowes, or maybe even auto zone will have them. They may possibly be the greatest invention ever!
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03-24-07, 09:06 PM
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They are very similiar to a drill bit except they have reversed threads on them and they have a different shape to them. If you give me a sec I'll find you one online.
03-24-07, 09:07 PM
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http://www.brokentap.com/easy-outs.html
Here's another helpful site:
http://www.globalair.com/discussions...icle~/msgID=17
just some light reading.
Here's another helpful site:
http://www.globalair.com/discussions...icle~/msgID=17
just some light reading.
Last edited by lax-rotor; 03-24-07 at 09:12 PM.
03-24-07, 09:14 PM
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im going to have to pick a couple up .... I was replacing the plastic panel (i dunno what you want to call it ) under the front of my rx and half the bolts just snapped with no force needed and I havnt gotten around to drilling rem out (god dman car is so low its rather tiring to drill with just a jack stands heights)
03-24-07, 09:15 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by Suiicidalpenguin
I don't know about all RX7's but from what I have seen (disc) the fronts are slid onto the rotor and the calipur has the threading and the rear (disc) the bracket has the threading
4 piston calipur (big square one) has threads
1 piston calipur (looks like any other really) no thread
4 piston calipur (big square one) has threads
1 piston calipur (looks like any other really) no thread
hmm... the fronts are different... the mount had the threading and the bracket had the threading... that i remember...
also... really think ez-outs would work for a bolt like this?
edit: managed to get the lower caliper bolt out easily... maybe i used to much torque when removing the upper bolt.... but anyways... from what it looks like, the mount and the caliper are both threaded in the rear...
03-24-07, 09:21 PM
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they should. Just don't be half-assed about it and drill sideways and it should come out. If you have it, hit it a couple more times with some oil. Also try the heating trick. basically the oxidation has locked the threads and there's no place for it to go so you either have to force it out or tap it out.... Easy outs make it so you don't have to worry about sheering anymore bolts because the more the bolt fights the easy out the tighter it burrows in while spinning the counter clockwise rotation. you're either going to run out of easy out or the bolt will just give in.
03-24-07, 09:23 PM
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thats entireally possible and yeah an ez out will work.. you need to make sure that you blast that brocken bolt with some pb and then when drilling you need the right size and you need to be strait when drilling in the center
on the ez out if you read the site he put up it tells you.
~edit~ damn you
you got to posting before me ~edit~
on the ez out if you read the site he put up it tells you.
~edit~ damn you
you got to posting before me ~edit~
03-24-07, 09:29 PM
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There is one downfall with the easy outs though. Since they are hardened if you do happen to break one off inside the bolt you'll have a hard time even drilling it out since its just as or harder than most drill bits. Just a caution.
03-24-07, 11:10 PM
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I have used the ez outs a lot and usually end up dissapointed. I think on a bolt this tight the ez outs will break for sure. I also had the same bolt head break off as you. What I did was drive the car to a shop, have them break the dtss bolt with their impact, retighten it and then I took it off again at my house. After you get the knuckle off you can just hammer the caliper bracket off, as the bolt only threads into the knuckle. An alternative to taking the car to the shop would be to get some extensions on the wrench your using on the dtss bolt (with either other wrenches or a big *** pipe), I have had luck getting stuck dtss bolts off this way as well. Good luck.
-Andrew
-Andrew
03-24-07, 11:31 PM
#17
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^^
thats also a good idea, but the car im trying to get this off of is my donor car and doesnt run...
i would use a big pipe on my ddts, but thats another bolt id be affarid of breaking...
thats also a good idea, but the car im trying to get this off of is my donor car and doesnt run...
i would use a big pipe on my ddts, but thats another bolt id be affarid of breaking...
03-24-07, 11:37 PM
#19
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Originally Posted by pitchblack7
That bolt is big enough that you'd probably break yourself before you break it.
-Andrew
-Andrew
alright... ill break out the big guns tomorrow morning and post my results...
wish me luck!
03-25-07, 08:08 PM
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Good luck, any news?...I still need to pick up some easy outs for my thermostat housing. I've tried getting it out so many times I think i'll take a dremel to it soon... well after I do the easy out and a couple extra things.
03-25-07, 08:35 PM
#21
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actually i havent had time to get out there yet today. since it was so nice outside, we did some cleaning up and the some people stopped by and were in the middle of cooking out etc, etc, etc...
so i guess it looks like ill be working on it tomorrow afternoon...
i cant believe how nice it is outside...
so i guess it looks like ill be working on it tomorrow afternoon...
i cant believe how nice it is outside...
03-26-07, 07:27 PM
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another beautiful day...
well... still cant get the ddts bolt lose on the driver side... so onto the pass. side... so far, everythings going well... removed the cliper and its bracket, and now im wroking on getting the disc off so that i can get at the ddts bolt a bit better...
why is it only 1 thing that gets in my way... wtf
well... still cant get the ddts bolt lose on the driver side... so onto the pass. side... so far, everythings going well... removed the cliper and its bracket, and now im wroking on getting the disc off so that i can get at the ddts bolt a bit better...
why is it only 1 thing that gets in my way... wtf
03-26-07, 07:57 PM
#25
Break out the welder.
TIG is the best but you can also be successful with a MIG if you take your time. I almost always use a simple flux core wire feed MIG and have a 80% success rate - the first time. (I always have 100% success but it might take more than one try).
Build up the broken stud a little at a time until you have a bead large enough to fit inside a hex nut. Weld the hex nut to the bead. Fill the rest of the hex nut with metal untill you have put another head on the broken stud.
Let cool and unscrew the broken stud with a wrench.
TIG is the best but you can also be successful with a MIG if you take your time. I almost always use a simple flux core wire feed MIG and have a 80% success rate - the first time. (I always have 100% success but it might take more than one try).
Build up the broken stud a little at a time until you have a bead large enough to fit inside a hex nut. Weld the hex nut to the bead. Fill the rest of the hex nut with metal untill you have put another head on the broken stud.
Let cool and unscrew the broken stud with a wrench.