I followed the diagram I got here to the letter. I kept the Bac and did not fool with the TB. The car is barely able to pull itself from a stop...just falls on its face. It will eventually get up to speed, but its getting 0 boost. Nada! I checked the check valve that goes between the UIM and the twin scroll Solenoid and it was allowing air through, but the twin scroll rod was not moving when I revved the engine. I pulled the check valve and the solenoid off and then it worked, but still get nothing. This not right, it should have to have the check valve shouldn't it? When I first got her cranked she was bucking and vibrating bad and wouldn't idle so I adjusted the idle. Fixed that, but still no right. The car sounds different as well...as in crappy.
I'm going to post a few pics of my main concerns.
Do I have the T from the Boost sensor to the IM hooked up right?
I don't have the pill in the line yet,as I have not found anything yet to use. Is this bad?
I have the vacuum hose from the bottom of the BAC hooked to the the straight part of the turbo inlet duct. Is that correct?
And am I using the right solenoid for the twin scroll? I used the grey plug and the black solenoid that was right beside the oil filler tube.
Thanks for taking time to help.
Jeremy

 

You are using the wrong solenoid for the twin scroll. The one you are using is for egr valve control. The twin scroll solenoid uses a green connector and if you still had the rat's nest, it would be located on the far left of the solenoid bracket (solenoid #1 according to my '88 FSM.

 

Really? ****!! Thanks...gonna go switch em right now.

 

That helped a little but the car still has no ***. Its backfiring when I let off the gas as well. The car sounds kinda like its under water if that makes any since. That sounds like a vacuum leak doesnt it?

 

Definitely sounds like a leak, idle it and listen under the hood for "sucking" or whistling. You sure you have everything capped that needs to be?

 

Make sure you have no vacuum going to the egr valve at idle. It is only supposed to work above idle. Most people that remove emissions disconnect the egr valve anyway.

In your third pic, it looks like you have a cap on the BAC valve. If so, you won't have a stable idle. It would be as if you didn't have it installed at all. Also, it looks like you have one yellow vacuum hose going to the pressure sensor, where is the other one connected?

 

No, the BAC isnt capped. I have a line going from it to the turbo inlet to the IC. Is that right? Also, the other yellow hose is going to the factory BOV, just like the diagram I posted shows.

I really cant hear any hissing, thats the problem. LOL. My egr is removed and capped. As far as I know I capped everything. Im dreading it, but Im probably gonna have to pull the UIM again to take a look and see if I missed anything.

 

You don't want pressurized air going to the BAC. It's hose is supposed to be connected to the inlet duct between the air filter and turbo (suction side).

EDIT: I just looked at the FSM, it does indeed show the hose from the BAC on the pressure side of the turbo. My bad.

 

Well, I guess all thats left is to pull the IM back off...

 

Keep us posted. Also if you didn't replace the flange gasket between manifolds, you might have a vacuum leak there. I use propane with the engine idling to check for leaks. Safer than ether and carb spray. It's also possible that a crack developed at one of the air intake boots, perhaps underneath where it's out of sight, out of mind. A propane check would reveal this.

 

I used a new gasket at the lower to motor and upper to lower IM...also used sealant on them so I dont know. When I pull the UI back off, you think its gonna mess up the new gasket? If so, should there be a problem just using rtv to replace it? When you say intake boots, do you mean the rubber elbows to the TB and the IC? Anyway, on my way to Wally World with the family. Gonna start pulling it off when I get home. Ill keep ya in the know scrip. Thanks man.
Jeremy

 

do you mean the TID? Or the hoses running turbo->IC and IC->TB? I usually hear people having a crack in the TID, on the underside. This was the case a while back on my stock TID before I grabbed a prelude intake duct and modded it to suit.

 

Well, my TID actually does have a small crack on the bottom side at the turbo end, but I sealed it with RTV along time before this problem started.

 

Any cracks or leaks at any of the hoses, either before or after the turbo will let air in that isn't being measured by the airflow meter, causing a lean condition. And before I would take the time to remove the manifolds again, I would do a propane check or if it's easier, pressurize the intake tract with low-pressure compressed air and spray a soap-and-water solution on all suspect areas and look for bubbles. You might double-check that crack where you put the RTV, it isn't a permanent fix and usually causes problems if it gets ingested into the engine.

 

Hey Scrip. I zink I found ze problim!
I pulled the UIM and found the connector for the fuel injector closest to the firewall was broken and not plugged up. I smashed it somehow, while I was putting the upper IM the first time. Thinking of a way to fix it as im typing this. Also noticed the vacuum hose under the TB going from the check valve to the valve under the TPS had a small crack. Going back outside to get back to work.
Jeremy

 

Yup, that fixed it. The car accelerates like it just got rear ended by a dump truck when I drive it before the engine has a lot of heat in it...
The idle is bouncing from 1 to 2, which I assume is the TPS, so gotta adjust that.
Jeremy