got my S5 turbo back from BNR!! awesome! pics inside!!!!
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 246
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham, AL
Originally Posted by dougiepants
What is the Stage 4 good for in PSI and RWHP? This is what I'm wanting to go with on my TII and is the Stage 4 offered for the S4 and S5 turbos?
A customer did a log with the stage 4. It peeked at 18 psi and dropped down to 15 psi from 6-8k and made 403 uncorrected RWHP. IT averaged about 400 RWHP from 6-8K RPM. It was maxed out
.The stage 4's are available in S4 and S5 applications. The S5 will not make as much peak power as the S4, but the response is a bit better with the devided manifold and turbine housing. I have not got a 400 RWHP dyno sheet with the S5, but I can emagine it will get very close if the car is tuned right.
Bryan@BNR
205 640 1193
Originally Posted by 88rxn/a
very clean!!!
where did you get the pocket located under the radio/CD player???/
where did you get the pocket located under the radio/CD player???/
Originally Posted by Bryan@BNR
A customer did a log with the stage 4. It peeked at 18 psi and dropped down to 15 psi from 6-8k and made 403 uncorrected RWHP. IT averaged about 400 RWHP from 6-8K RPM. It was maxed out
.
The stage 4's are available in S4 and S5 applications. The S5 will not make as much peak power as the S4, but the response is a bit better with the devided manifold and turbine housing. I have not got a 400 RWHP dyno sheet with the S5, but I can emagine it will get very close if the car is tuned right.
Bryan@BNR
205 640 1193
.The stage 4's are available in S4 and S5 applications. The S5 will not make as much peak power as the S4, but the response is a bit better with the devided manifold and turbine housing. I have not got a 400 RWHP dyno sheet with the S5, but I can emagine it will get very close if the car is tuned right.
Bryan@BNR
205 640 1193
Sorry for the thread jack, but just trying to get answers for other people as well as myself that might want this info...
Last edited by dougiepants; Nov 18, 2006 at 09:00 AM.
Originally Posted by dougiepants
So there is better response feel and quicker spool with the Stage 4 on the S5, but so far you have not seen actual proof of the S5 yielding the 400rwhp? The Stage 4 on the S4 has put down those #'s in the 400rwhpp area with proper tuning, but is that using the twin scroll setup or with it twin scroll set up forced open all the time (welded or some sort)? I to am looking for the best results for my S4 10th AE and this gentleman is for his Vert. What is the differences mainly between the Stage 2, 3, and 4 BNR Hybrid Turbos that you do? I saw that there is porting done to the housings, but is there anything else that allows the Stage 4 to make the 18psi while the Stage 2 is making only 15psi? How low does the Stage 4 make the 18psi for until it backs down to 15psi? I would assume the setup would make the 400rwhp area before the psi backs off correct?
Sorry for the thread jack, but just trying to get answers for other people as well as myself that might want this info...
Sorry for the thread jack, but just trying to get answers for other people as well as myself that might want this info...
Originally Posted by deagle50ae
damnit your car's so cleannnnnnnnn!!!!!!!
You've convinved me to get a T-II hood also.
You've convinved me to get a T-II hood also.
thanks man!the verts came only TII in Europe!! it's an amazing combination...
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,383
Likes: 3
From: Stinson Beach, Ca
Originally Posted by dougiepants
So there is better response feel and quicker spool with the Stage 4 on the S5, but so far you have not seen actual proof of the S5 yielding the 400rwhp? The Stage 4 on the S4 has put down those #'s in the 400rwhpp area with proper tuning, but is that using the twin scroll setup or with it twin scroll set up forced open all the time (welded or some sort)? I to am looking for the best results for my S4 10th AE and this gentleman is for his Vert. What is the differences mainly between the Stage 2, 3, and 4 BNR Hybrid Turbos that you do? I saw that there is porting done to the housings, but is there anything else that allows the Stage 4 to make the 18psi while the Stage 2 is making only 15psi? How low does the Stage 4 make the 18psi for until it backs down to 15psi? I would assume the setup would make the 400rwhp area before the psi backs off correct?
Sorry for the thread jack, but just trying to get answers for other people as well as myself that might want this info...
Sorry for the thread jack, but just trying to get answers for other people as well as myself that might want this info...
as for boost and power from the turbo, the compressor wheel states most of that.
the turbine wheel changes the spoolup and rpm range of the turbo. make it come on earlier and die off before redline or come on later and go all the way to redline.
I think bryan fiddles w/ the bearings to make them able to take higher psi's and stuff like that.
The Problem with 1600cc's secondaries and an S-AFC is that it corrects from a stock size injector in Percentage. So it'll be difficult to go at it smoothly with that size increase. I think you'd get smoother results going like 850 on all 4's maybe. With the way you want it, the secondaries will kick when they come in.
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 246
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham, AL
Hey guys.
Call me sometime and we can talk it over. I'll explain what benifits to each upgrade is and whats suitable for your application. I would be here forever typing making an explaination
.
Bryan@BNR
205 640 1193
Call me sometime and we can talk it over. I'll explain what benifits to each upgrade is and whats suitable for your application. I would be here forever typing making an explaination
.Bryan@BNR
205 640 1193
Originally Posted by fastrotaries
The Problem with 1600cc's secondaries and an S-AFC is that it corrects from a stock size injector in Percentage. So it'll be difficult to go at it smoothly with that size increase. I think you'd get smoother results going like 850 on all 4's maybe. With the way you want it, the secondaries will kick when they come in.
have to bring this thread back guys! you were talking about retarding the ignition timing, i'm wondering why would that help?? i thought usually you advance timing on tuned engines...?? am i completely wrong
no, on a tuned, boosted engine you want to retard the ignition timing to keep from detonating. The much higher pressures and temperatures make the fuel and air want to burn much more quickly than the engine and computer are used to, so sparking at the normal time could cause the fuel to burn before our engine's equivalent of TDC, causing a lot of damage. Plus, the hotter, higher pressure conditions make the engine more prone to knocking, and by firing later in the cycle, heat is reduced slightly (at the expense of power), but you're less likely to blow your engine. Ways around this are running higher octane fuel (or a secondary injection system to increase octane... methanol or ethanol), or water injection which cools the intake charge. Both of these will reduce the possibility of detonation.
But yea, simple answer is on a turbo engine with a lot of boost, you need to retard the timing under boost or you go "POP"
But yea, simple answer is on a turbo engine with a lot of boost, you need to retard the timing under boost or you go "POP"
When I finish building my turbo motor, I plan on using a big-*** air-to-water intercooler and using the spark and fuel tables on my Megasquirt to keep detonation in check. I am currently building my own hybrid using a stock S5 turbine with a Garrett T-04 compressor housing and wheel (.60 a/r cold side). No AFM or boost sensor to worry about. GO MEGASQUIRT!...also when I take it to the track I can add ice to the intercooler reservoir to keep the intake temps way down.
Originally Posted by airworks-fc3s
wow thanks guys that was clear enough! maybe i'll retard timing some degrees at the CAS, hoping it will not affect low throttle or rpm performance!
Backing off the timing at the cas can help with detonation but it also can cause sluggish low-rpm power when not under boost, so be prepared for that.
Hate to bring this back but there are people on this forum who run BNR stage three with 550/720 set up and if you go with RTek2.0 for like $400 you can program for those injectors with the check of a box... not to mention tune fuel and ignition via PalmPilot. I'm going to go in that direction within the year just thought I'd throw that out there incase you're still open for ideas. Good luck and sweet car man!!!
Originally Posted by sonick117x
Nevermind.. forgot you had S5.. Shut myself up haha!

i'm going with four 800cc injectors! just got them from SARD!

that should work quite well!!
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,383
Likes: 3
From: Stinson Beach, Ca
Originally Posted by airworks-fc3s
I'm going to run it with rebuilt and ported engine, 3" exhaust, FMIC, FCD, Walbro, SAFCII, AEM a/r gauge, ...! Aiming for some 15-18psi! What do you think
Get a standalone. You spent way more than a standalone on those mods. Keep saving and get one already!
-Ben Martin
Originally Posted by Node
I think you're gonna blow your motor within half a year
Get a standalone. You spent way more than a standalone on those mods. Keep saving and get one already!
-Ben Martin
Get a standalone. You spent way more than a standalone on those mods. Keep saving and get one already!
-Ben Martin
think it can handle 15psi with BNR II and the supporting mods...
standalone will be next step (one or two years)...
Originally Posted by airworks-fc3s
here are some pics of: where the rebuild is going to take place, old turbonetics still bolted on, rotor housing with serious wear, my vert with the FD of a friend, and the work area for next spring 
besides: i have the suspicion, that the reason for apex seal failure wasn't lean mixture and detonation (was perfectly rich)! but the chrome flakes that come off the edges of the rotor housing with high mileage. maybe one flake big flake came off and was crushed between the housing and the approaching apex seal and then under high load... baaang!!

besides: i have the suspicion, that the reason for apex seal failure wasn't lean mixture and detonation (was perfectly rich)! but the chrome flakes that come off the edges of the rotor housing with high mileage. maybe one flake big flake came off and was crushed between the housing and the approaching apex seal and then under high load... baaang!!

Originally Posted by Node
I think you're gonna blow your motor within half a year
Get a standalone. You spent way more than a standalone on those mods. Keep saving and get one already!
-Ben Martin
Get a standalone. You spent way more than a standalone on those mods. Keep saving and get one already!
-Ben Martin





