Torquefreaks were holding a dyno day ($25 for 3 Pulls with wideband) so I figured why not.
Here's my sheet (I wasnt doing any tuning):

Sorry for the crappy quality. I let off at 6000 on the first pull cuz something didnt feel right, and since run 1 and run 2 were the same I figured there was no point stressing the motor for a another pull just to get the same result...
Mods are:
Intake
Full turbo back exhaust (no cats)

So what do you guys think? Is my car where it "should" be?

Oh and heres a pic of the car


Oh yeah, In between my first and second runs they changed the filter on the wideband (I didnt really have 15-16:1 A/F ratios, I was scared when I saw that at first though)

 

What psi?

 

Nice ride what kinda kit is on it ,Corbit.

 

dumb question, buy why is there a spike at 3300?

 

Your Air Fuel is WAY lean on the run in red and a bit lean on the one in blue.... the Doctor at KDR doesn't like to see anything even CLOSE to 13 under boost.... low 12's are much better.... you better add some fuel dude... and with a straight exhaust, it expect to see something a little higher at the wheels....

 

I thought with your mods you should be more like 210-215 rwhp.

 

Stock plus however high the straight exhaust is raising me up to (i dont have a boost gauge yet)
I was hoping that someone could fill me on on this as well.

The previous owner of the car had the exhaust setup to go from a 3.25in DP to a 3in MP to the stock y-pipes with straight thru mufflers (haven't changed to 3in piping from the Y's to the mufflers) would the stock y-pipes be hurting my hp gains?

 

It is impossible to tell if this is where you "should" be if the # boost you are running is not known. could be between 7-12.... only one way to tell.

Boost gauge should be the very first mod.

 

I see your point. I guess it will by my first mod. I bought the car as it sits right now.

 

The car looks nice. I remember seeing it in autotrader a few months back. How much did you end up buying it for if you don't mind telling? Do you know what kind of kit is on it? I really like it. Do you have a pic of the front?

I would suggest getting a A/F gauge as well. Those would be the first 2 mods on any turbo car I got. For $150 you can pick up a new boost, A/F gauge and duel pod.

 

nice bodykit, what kind is it, corksport border replica?

 

I bought the car for $6600. I figured with only 80k miles, fresh paint, and the kit it wasn't a bad deal.

I'm pretty sure (not positive) that its a real Border kit because the fiberglass is really thick, and where the front bumper meets the side moulding the body lines flow really well, whereas the corksport kit is more flat in that area.

Heres a pic of the front:

 

get a boost gauge and a new fuel pump...walbro 255 will do the trick thats just a tad low on power but pretty much right where you should be...considering age and all of these cars they all can't be 100% efficient hehe

 

man i wish i had a dyno near by wouldnt mind testin my TII out, with all my mods and such im pushing 12PSI wouldnt mind how much rear wheel horse power im throwin out, but livin in nanaimHOE a dyno is hard to find.

 

damn you are crazy. You are running a DP/MP with a stock fuel pump? Someone really wants to buy a new engine this year. Ebay has walbro 255's for 80 bucks.
Also test your voltage from your stock setup. Then you will want to rewire it. Stay out of the races until you have a fuel pump and boost guage. Sweet car hate to see you have to dump 1500 into a rebuild instead of mods.

 

yea that is pretty dangerous.... glad I got my walbro

 

your afr's with a wideband should be alot closer to 11:1 at WOT, i personally have them around 10.8:1 on the street(wot) just to be safe. 13:1 is around what your everyday driveing load/low(0~4psi) boost settings should be at, and cruise should be a bit higher around 14.5-15:1.

 

the reason it looks like a spike at 3500ish is just because it doesn't have time to flatten out smoothly, because the secondary injectors come online and don't flow enough by the look of things. I'd get them cleaned if they haven't already.

the mix on the red run is crazy lean, no wonder it felt weird. Blue looks good to me. I'd work out why the mix is all over the place between runs before giving it too much of a hiding though.

 

The run in the red was just a wrong wideband reading. They had 11 cars dynoing before me so when they saw my reading they changed the wideband filter between my 1st and 2nd run.