cds00bsmg

iTrader: (1)

If your looking to get only 300 at the wheels, then your best option is the BNR stage 1 available through rx7store.net, this way your wastegate is already ported as well. It can produce between 300-310hp at the wheels at or below 14psi with the proper supporting modifications. I would think 300 at the wheels should give you a high 12 second or low 13 second car with some basic weight reduction.

The e-mange can control timing if you purchase the optional harness. It can also control up to two additional injectors. If you have the e-mange tool, and a laptop, the e-mange will datalog, and give you much greater tunability than the S-AFC. For the money, IMO the e-mange is the better choice. Also, like I said, if you ever decide to go with a larger turbo you already have a fuel computer that can handle the increased demands, while the S-AFC will then be your weakness.

The stock TMIC is good up to about 10psi. With a upgraded turbo, you have the possability of more heat generated by the motor. The TMIC heat soaks because of this, thus kind of killing its effectiveness. For 300hp at the wheels, a starion FMIC would work well. As far as BOV, go with a greddy, or HKS unit, or whatever you want....

As far as a boost controller, there are a lot on the market as well. If you have the dollars, you can get the greddy E01 which collaborates with the e-mange. I'm not sure what it all does, I just know the two work together somehow. I went with just the standard greddy profec B.

Get rid of the air pump, and A/C if you dont want or need it. It will help when piping that FMIC. Also, relocating the battery to one of the storage bins would be a good idea. You may want to look into getting a koyo or other after market aluminum radiator, and also an electric fan. You may also want to consider blocking off all of your emissions stuff if you don't need it, getting all silicone vaccum hoses, and removing the rats nest. Also, doing the TB mod and porting it might be a good idea, however most don't like it because of low/poor idle, and other reasons.

Ocelot

I'd go with at least a Stage II if you are aiming for over 300. The stage I isn't much of an improvement over the stock turbo and its not much extra money for the stage II.

NZConvertible

That's not particularly good advice IMO. Having a bunch of fuel mods is going to do squat to combat the boost creep from the intake and exhaust mods. Bucketing in lots of extra fuel is not only a crude and inefficient way to avoid detonation caused by too much boost, it won't help the fact that turbo bearing life will be dramatically shortened by turbo over-speeding and a chunk of the gains from the FMIC are being wasted cooling down the very hot air from the turbo.

Wrong. For starters stock max is more than that (~6.5psi for S4). Boost creep is uncontrolled increase in boost. If you add say an exhaust and your boost goes from holding 6psi to holding 8psi, that's not boost creep. But if boost continues to rise as revs increase, or holds that 8psi in lower gears but starts to rise in higher gears, that's boost creep.

87racer

Would buying a microtech Lt8 for $700 be a better option? Or should I spend a little more and get something better? Or ould getting the emanage be more suitable?

eViLRotor

iTrader: (2)

Full standalone EMS (even the Microtech )is always the best way to go if you are into serious power modifications.

RestoTII

Wow..... just waiting for someone to point this out. I was reading the second page and losing hope for a while there.

Boost creep is air that was never intended by the computer to deserve gasoline. That's why the creep will lean out the mixture, i.e. IS BAD! Sure, you lose a little bit of "boost" if you port the WG, but like NZ said, the air you're getting is going to be more efficiently pressurized (cooler), and you won't have such high intake temps.

Most of the questions you're asking seem like they've been hit on constantly, and the 300hp mark is a pretty nice mark IMO. Hopefully you can get some tips fromt he folks who've attempted/completed their 300RWHP projects. Good luck.

87racer

so... about the microtech?? worth the $700 pricetag for what I'm wanting? let me know.

Ocelot

If you want 300hp, yes.

87racer

How hard is is to install? Is it worth it to have it installed? That way I would be sure it's installed right.

eViLRotor

iTrader: (2)

If you can read wiring diagrams, have a FSM, know how to solder, and are prepared to rewire your cars EFI and ignition system you should be fine. Can certainly be done in a weekend...

Everyone I know personally has installed their own EMS. Its so we can do things our way.

87racer

So... instead of spending $350 on an SAFC or e-manage and an Rtek1.7, I should get the microtech LT8 for $700. That way I can use it if I want the bigger turbo later, right? In addition, I should get a 3" instead of 2.5" for even more efficiency and a Starion IC (FMIC or TMIC??). 720cc secondaries will still be efficient. I do however need some sort of boost controller and a better BOV. Would the stock turbo be OK for about a month, until I can afford the new turbo, as long as I don't get into boost too high?

eViLRotor

iTrader: (2)

Yes, once you have a standalone EMS, you can add whatever you want to your car, since you have complete user adjustability over your fuel and ignition maps.

Remember though, that any change to your car will generally require re-tuning of the maps. Tuning is generally done by a professional using an wideband oxygen sensor (and dyno). This costs money

My advice to you would be to buy as many of your upgrades as you can (especially injectors and turbo) then install them together, so that you only need to have the car tuned once. And yes, get a FMIC.

I'm not a big fan of the MicroTech, but I'm not going to talk you out of it either. Read up on it and make your own decision.