2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Good place to buy a motor?

Old Aug 12, 2002 | 03:19 PM
  #26  
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Ask VOSKO how much money he has saved using J-specs this year. I wouldn't trust a JSPEC as far as I could throw it!!!! It's a HIP term for JAPANEESE JUNKYARD MOTORS. Cut the harness throw them in a container and go! I bought a 2TG Toyota motor in 84 and it was JUNK!! needed a rebuild off the pallet. Lucky for me I did a leakdown test first. There is NO MAGIC to a J_SPEC, the 30K miles is a bunck of hogwash. Ask dave gibson what percentage of J-Specs he gets in are usable? Ask VOSKO, Call the Rotory Rebuilder of your choice. You are asking for trouble if you think your MAGICAL JSPEC is going to last. ITS JAPANEESE LEFTOVERS MARKETED TO GULLIBLE PEOPLE WHO THINK " OWWWWW JSPEC/JDM IS GOOD"
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Old Aug 12, 2002 | 03:26 PM
  #27  
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Theres nothing magical about them. They dont make more power, rev higher or smell better than a U.S. *spec* motor. Walk by your car everyday and look at the N1's hangin off the back, the spider webs being formed off your adjustable shocks, knowing that your car is dead and no more racing for you. A $550 motor sounds pretty good whille your staring at your dead Turbo II remembering all the fun you *used* to have.
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Old Aug 12, 2002 | 03:27 PM
  #28  
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From: Phoenix
You could always rebuild it yourself

My only concern with buying a new FC engine is this:

How long does your friend plan to keep the car before he grows out of it?

A bargain $1000 engine from hypntyz7 is 99% sure to last at least 50k miles , which is 5 years for the most of us.

You have to ask yourself if it makes sense to spend $3000+ on an all new engine for a 15 year old car that you might not even keep. Not saying it's a bad idea if you plan to keep the car.

But you figure if you can spend $1500 on a rebuilt and install and the car runs for 2 years without any problems, thats a damn good price for getting 2 years of service (as far as cars go)


The other option of course if you rebuild yourself, think of all the things you can do to it! I'm rebuilding mine myself and am able to buy alot more stuff, check this list out:

Rebuilt engine (did that myself for ~$500)
New clutch
Rebuilt alternator
Rebuilt Starter
New water pump
New brakes
Electric fans
new motor mounts
Rebuilt injectors
All new vacuum lines
All new hoses
All new belts
All new filters

thats all i can think of off hte top of my head...

But so far I have spent a mere $1300 on EVERYTHING, which is still less than a rebuilt engine!

I know it's not the question you asked, but something to think about. I paid $1300 and my car is gonna run like new

Last edited by 88 SE; Aug 12, 2002 at 03:29 PM.
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Old Aug 12, 2002 | 03:27 PM
  #29  
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If you offer a 1 year warranty on a 13bt and keep the cost around $1000 your gonna have people lined up at your shop.
Well be reasonable here now. First off, parts for 13bt, even with me reusing some of the seals/springs, still run around $550-600. Keep in mind I must also account for engine cleaners, air tools, operating costs in general, and my time doing all this. Plus there are sealants and hylomar, so when its all said and done I might make $300-400.

Now also keep in mind there is a core cost involved; I cant just pull 13bt's out of my ***, and Ive been unsuccessful in finding a decent supply of turbo motors. Basically if I dont have your old one to work from to start, I cant help you.

Pretty much my base price on a 13bt rebuild is $1200 plus shipping or porting, requiring a core to work from first. If this core needs a rotor and housing repalced, well then I have to go find good ones to use, and the price goes up $100-200.
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Old Aug 12, 2002 | 03:37 PM
  #30  
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88 SE how did you do a rebuild for $500? Thats with ALL new engine gaskets and apex seals. Thats what I was going to do at first but I cant seem to find a kit under $800 with seals. I'd rather get a J-spec and have a spare motor to build on my own then sending my original out as a core.
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Old Aug 12, 2002 | 03:37 PM
  #31  
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You missed the point. A LARGE % of these magical $550 motors are crap!. You install it, its dead, pull it out, ship it back, wait for the replacement, put it in and wonder IS this crap?
VOSKO knows.
JSPECS have their place in the FOOD chain as CORES for rebuilds.
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Old Aug 12, 2002 | 03:43 PM
  #32  
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Originally posted by chatch
Walk by your car everyday and look at the N1's hangin off the back, the spider webs being formed off your adjustable shocks, knowing that your car is dead and no more racing for you. A $550 motor sounds pretty good whille your staring at your dead Turbo II remembering all the fun you *used* to have.
I was seriously considering going the J-Spec route with my car, but I figured that I could potentially waste my time and money on an engine AND still have a non-running RX-7, I decided to save up my dough and get a Pineapple. It's tough having a car that doesn't run and the only thing holding you back is saving up the dough to get a rebuild...or a J-Spec. It's even worse when you take naps in the soft, supple seats of your dead car while dreaming of spinning rotors and wheezing turbos.

Egads...
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Old Aug 12, 2002 | 03:45 PM
  #33  
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From: Phoenix
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/overhaul_kits.htm

$506 shipped. Has almost everything you'll need unless there are some abnormally worn parts (oil seal rings, side seals, etc)

INcludes seals and springs at that price too.
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Old Aug 12, 2002 | 03:46 PM
  #34  
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I just payed $1263.42 for JUST the rebuild and gasket kit for my motor. I got a upgraded Oil pump and my tranny seals added and that it. Where are you guys getting kits for $500?ish you must not be replacing everything, just whats needed?
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Old Aug 12, 2002 | 04:00 PM
  #35  
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From: Phoenix
Got it from Rotary Aviate (see link in my last post)

No, it's not a complete kit as it does not include new oil control METALS, oil pump chain, or side seals.

But, this kit more than fit the needs of my application because my oil metals are fine, the side seals are perfect condition, and I got a enw oil pump chain for $23 from autozone.

So it just depends on what you need.

They do offer a complete kit for $850 with oil ring metals, which is a real good deal. worth checking out.
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Old Aug 12, 2002 | 04:03 PM
  #36  
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Ya, but is the gasket kit complete? I mean I think that is all the internal goods. Those engine kits are for airplanes it sounds like. Where is the turbo gasket? exaust gasket? oil pan gasket? all that stuff? how much of that is included? or is it stricktly internl parts?
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Old Aug 12, 2002 | 04:08 PM
  #37  
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From: Phoenix
it includes the mazda gasket kit, which has oil pan, intake, etc etc gaskets. Turbo gasket im not sure since I bought mine for my NA, but im sure you can get it with the kit for not much more.
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Old Aug 12, 2002 | 05:07 PM
  #38  
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Originally posted by hypntyz7


I think I need to say something here for clarification.

I am not here to directly compete with guys like Pineapple etc. We do different types of work, and this is explained in detail on my webpage. IF you have the funds for a nice, tight, new rotor housing and lapped side housing, all new part, bearing adn cooling modified motor, then by all means go for one of the others, because said engine will run better and last longer than an engie I will build. This is not due to poor worksmanship on my part, just excellent worksmanship on Rob's part, plus the fact he is using newer parts.

IF, however, you canot afford the thought of dropping 3k on a motor, or even 2k, then Im your man. I can get your car running again, running strong to last for several years to come, for a minimal cost compared to anyone else in the market. IT is this niche, and this one only, that I want to fill int eh community; I dont have any interest in building race motors etc., anything more than a SP is something I dont want to work on because I know an engine with some used parts in it will not stand up to heavy/hard driving/racing.
I know what kind of work you do, and as previously stated, I beleve your work is highly respected. The niche that you fill is good one. The only problem is the guy I am doing the work for is not going to buy anything without a warranty. If you did, I would be MORE then happy to steer him in your direction. Even if you offered even a 1 year-12000 mile and priced them slightly more in order to offset potential problems, you still would be below the $1900 that most people are charging for thier motors. Like I said, money isnt an issue, but EVERYONE likes to get a good deal.

Rat
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Old Aug 12, 2002 | 05:10 PM
  #39  
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Originally posted by 88 SE
You could always rebuild it yourself

How long does your friend plan to keep the car before he grows out of it?

A bargain $1000 engine from hypntyz7 is 99% sure to last at least 50k miles , which is 5 years for the most of us.

You have to ask yourself if it makes sense to spend $3000+ on an all new engine for a 15 year old car that you might not even keep. Not saying it's a bad idea if you plan to keep the car.

But you figure if you can spend $1500 on a rebuilt and install and the car runs for 2 years without any problems, thats a damn good price for getting 2 years of service (as far as cars go)


The other option of course if you rebuild yourself, think of all the things you can do to it! I'm rebuilding mine myself and am able to buy alot more stuff, check this list out:

Well, the gentleman I am doing the work for is around 45 years old. Both his kids drove the car before they left the house. He is QUITE attached to the car to the point that he wants it to last. I can rebuild the motor, but he wants a manufacturers warranty. Pure and simple. He is not getting rid of the car. Ever.

Rat
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Old Aug 12, 2002 | 06:48 PM
  #40  
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If he wants to keep the car "forever" as you say then a rebuild isn't really an option. Life expetancy of rotor housings deminishes with each rebuild. If he doesn't mind spending a few extra dollars he should invest in a NEW engine.

Check out Mazdatrix's engine list

http://www.mazdatrix.com/engnumna.htm

It might seem a bit pricey and the warranty is pretty standard on their engines, BUT they will last far longer than an engine with used parts.

Mazdatrix also offers about any option you could want including using higher compression/lighter 89+ rotors in the engines. It's worth a look!

But like I said if he wants the keep the car forever, it may be worth it to buy an engine that is rebuilt with new housings and maybe even rotors just because it is sure to last longer.

I would recommend an engine with new rotor housings, lapped side housings, new 89+ rotors and all new bearings. That will be an engine that will last the car another 150k miles or more.

It's all just how much he wants to spend.. Mazdatrix can build you a engine that will last forever, but you're gonna pay for it
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Old Aug 12, 2002 | 06:50 PM
  #41  
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Thats nice to hear J-Rat. A man who appreciates his cars.
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Old Aug 12, 2002 | 06:57 PM
  #42  
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Originally posted by banzaitoyota
Thats nice to hear J-Rat. A man who appreciates his cars.
Yeah, I know that I am never getting rid of mine either. Since it was the first car I ever drove when it was brand new in 87. I was 15 when my aunt bought it, now 15 years later, its finally mine!!! When its rebuild time, I am gonna do it right.

On another note, anyone ever deal with Hayes Rotary? I can get thier motor through Checker Auto (my second job). Thier motor is $1800, and I can get 25% off of that for my employee discount.
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Old Aug 12, 2002 | 07:52 PM
  #43  
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55o jspec

Originally posted by chatch
RYANDOGG........Where can a J-spec be had for 550? Ill take on of dem bitches!

Matt
check your pm's
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Old Aug 12, 2002 | 08:01 PM
  #44  
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Still waiting to hear from Ryandogg's source. Their website does not have a phone number. Only way to contact them is thru E-mail...Still waiting????
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Old Aug 12, 2002 | 08:58 PM
  #45  
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Originally posted by J-Rat


Yeah, I know that I am never getting rid of mine either. Since it was the first car I ever drove when it was brand new in 87. I was 15 when my aunt bought it, now 15 years later, its finally mine!!! When its rebuild time, I am gonna do it right.

On another note, anyone ever deal with Hayes Rotary? I can get thier motor through Checker Auto (my second job). Thier motor is $1800, and I can get 25% off of that for my employee discount.
Do a search about Hayes Rotary, they do not have a good reputation in the rx-7 community.
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Old Aug 12, 2002 | 09:04 PM
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Originally posted by hawk 7


Do a search about Hayes Rotary, they do not have a good reputation in the rx-7 community.
Good idea, I never though to do a search..Thanks.

Rat
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Old Aug 12, 2002 | 09:06 PM
  #47  
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I would rather have diagnosed my 15 year old engine first and made sure I had a viable powerplant BEFORE I bought N1's, Aftermarket rims and suspension. Sounds like putting the cart in front of the horse. Sound like an expensive lesson in the BASICS!
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Old Aug 13, 2002 | 09:05 AM
  #48  
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Originally posted by banzaitoyota
I would rather have diagnosed my 15 year old engine first and made sure I had a viable powerplant BEFORE I bought N1's, Aftermarket rims and suspension. Sounds like putting the cart in front of the horse. Sound like an expensive lesson in the BASICS!
Thats the norm around here. It seems that most people toss on the rims/intake/exhaust before checking the oil for the first time. They get what they deserve. And, we get a supply of cheap cars that need engines.

As someone stated, the only expensive rebuild is a cheap rebuild. You figure it out.

All the good JDM motors stay in Japan. We get all the broken ones. Who here will fly to Japan to beat the snot out of the JDM recycle yard owners? Anyone? They aren't even taking a risk by shipping junk. Anyone know if there is a market for USADM components in Japan? I'm gonna make a killing on broken domestic parts shipped to Japan

Regardless of which builder you choose, make sure you follow their instructions for warranty coverage. The rebuilders know why the engines fail. Don't just toss the rebuild in and expect it to last. Any rebuilder that denies a warranty claim has that right if you have no proof of a flushing oil cooler, rebuilt/replaced radiator, ....and whatever the rebuilder requires. Rarely is a failed engine the rebuilders fault. Usually it is the installers/owners fault.
Too many people slam a rebuilder because of their own ignorance.

For example: additives/overheating/failed lubrication/owner negligence(very common)/misuse/abuse.....
http://www.hayesrotary.com/page19.htm
http://mazdatrix.com/w.htm
http://pineappleracing.com/PricelistSvcs.html
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Old Aug 13, 2002 | 09:36 AM
  #49  
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See DeadRX7Conv, we do agree on alot of things!!!!

Thats why I had my oil cooler flushed by someone who knows how to flush oil coolers, ie a FAA certified repair facility, expensive not really.

Its amazing how many people figure out how to do it right the second or third time.
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Old Aug 13, 2002 | 12:00 PM
  #50  
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RYANDOGG: Your source appears to be BOGUS: Here is the Email I just recieved from them:

From: JDMCars <sales@jdmcars.com>
To: zach12@TOOLKITMAIL.COM
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 12:35:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Re:



Opps, I am sorry. I missed that in your email. We just hand another inquiry
on the RX7, must have gotten the emails mixed up.
We haven't seen the earlier RX7 motors for over 8 months now, I don't think
we will be getting them in any longer.
You might want to try -www.jpsecjdm.net
Tell them JDMCars sent you please.

Sincerely,

Customer Service
www.jdmcars.com


550 JSPECS!!! HAAAAAAA!!!!!
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