Good place to buy a motor?
08-11-02, 08:58 PM
#1
Good place to buy a motor?
A friend of mine brought his 86 base over today, its running REALLY rough, both plugs are black. Replaced all the ignition stuff, and it didnt help. This motor blows TONS of blue smoke, all of which is leading me to believe that the motor is blown.
Now my question is:
Where is a good place to buy a new one. He wants a good motor, with a good warranty. Price is not too much of an issue, but everyone wants to save money. He loves the car, and wants to continue driving it. Anyone have reccomendations?
Rat
Now my question is:
Where is a good place to buy a new one. He wants a good motor, with a good warranty. Price is not too much of an issue, but everyone wants to save money. He loves the car, and wants to continue driving it. Anyone have reccomendations?
Rat
08-11-02, 09:01 PM
#2
Huh?
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08-11-02, 10:40 PM
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www.mazdarx7engines.com
They have free shipping and a 2 year/24k mile warranty and also do streetporting.
They have free shipping and a 2 year/24k mile warranty and also do streetporting.
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08-12-02, 12:59 AM
#8
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
IF youre looking to buy on a budget I can help you as well. www.rotaryresurrection.com
08-12-02, 03:08 AM
#9
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I'm also in the mist of looking for a new motor.
I heard pineapple racing does very nice buildup of motors. But what do other forum member recommend.
I plan on getting the motor built to my specs of:
89+ Motor with an aggressive street port
TB mod and ported
Intake Manifold Ported
Exhaust Ported with exhaust silencer removed
Pineapple racing sleeves
Upgraded Fuel Injectors
2mm Seals
So which company has a good reputation for the engine build up. I have a 89+ motor running perfect but there aren't many Rotary places in Vancouver that I trust.
I heard pineapple racing does very nice buildup of motors. But what do other forum member recommend.
I plan on getting the motor built to my specs of:
89+ Motor with an aggressive street port
TB mod and ported
Intake Manifold Ported
Exhaust Ported with exhaust silencer removed
Pineapple racing sleeves
Upgraded Fuel Injectors
2mm Seals
So which company has a good reputation for the engine build up. I have a 89+ motor running perfect but there aren't many Rotary places in Vancouver that I trust.
08-12-02, 04:06 AM
#10
Originally posted by hypntyz7
IF youre looking to buy on a budget I can help you as well. www.rotaryresurrection.com
IF youre looking to buy on a budget I can help you as well. www.rotaryresurrection.com
Are you?
Rat
08-12-02, 04:17 AM
#11
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Originally posted by Wormiez
I plan on getting the motor built to my specs of:
89+ Motor with an aggressive street port
TB mod and ported
Intake Manifold Ported
Exhaust Ported with exhaust silencer removed
Pineapple racing sleeves
Upgraded Fuel Injectors
2mm Seals
I plan on getting the motor built to my specs of:
89+ Motor with an aggressive street port
TB mod and ported
Intake Manifold Ported
Exhaust Ported with exhaust silencer removed
Pineapple racing sleeves
Upgraded Fuel Injectors
2mm Seals
08-12-02, 04:54 AM
#12
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Shipping for my motor and core from OR to SC and SC to OR was 306.00 total for both trips. Jhn, ask whatever engine builder you choose if he /she is using NEW housings and who laps their plates
08-12-02, 06:04 AM
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Someone correct me if I am wrong about this:
The side plates are nitrided at the factory. Nitrided Coatings are very tough, but they are also very thin. If your side plates have any wear on them they need to be lapped to restore the finish to factory specs.[ For maximum power and longivity].
Incorrect lapping procedures or too much material removed will result in a removal of the nitrided coating and the engine life will suffer dramactically.
The side plates are nitrided at the factory. Nitrided Coatings are very tough, but they are also very thin. If your side plates have any wear on them they need to be lapped to restore the finish to factory specs.[ For maximum power and longivity].
Incorrect lapping procedures or too much material removed will result in a removal of the nitrided coating and the engine life will suffer dramactically.
08-12-02, 06:06 AM
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Here is some more INFO from some past posts:
Lapping
Resurfacing the side housings is called lapping..It is a process where a set of precisely mounted grinding stones are moved across the surface in a back and forth movement while they are turning at the same time.
The problem with lapping is two fold. One is the grooves in the housings that the sealing o rings fit into. If too much material is removed there will be an insufficient depth here. The other problem is the nitride treatment. This is a process to toughen the metal. It is NOT a "low friction" treatment. It is an anti-wear treatment. Nitriding penetrates about 3 to 7 thousandths deep. Lapping may remove metal below the depth the nitriding penetrated. If this happens the plate will wear very rapidly in use.
There is a nationwide company called Moore-McMillan Industries that will re-nitride your plates. There are several other companies no doubt. I was fortunate that Moore-McMillan had a facility about 60 miles from me. They charged 150 bucks for all three plates.
Nitriding is a very heat intensive process. Any plastic in the plates such as injector diffusers will be melted. Lapping requires all the dowel pins etc be removed so the plates can be mounted correctly and the lapping stones have a flat surface to run over.
As far as lapping, a company called LAPCO in Lake Wiley S.C. has considerable experience lapping Mazda end housings. They lapped mine and did an excellent job. Their prices are very reasonable, but shipping is costs are the pits. If memory serves me they charge about 35 to 40 bucks a surface plus a 10 dollar clean up fee. The shipping was about 70 bucks each way.
Lapping
Resurfacing the side housings is called lapping..It is a process where a set of precisely mounted grinding stones are moved across the surface in a back and forth movement while they are turning at the same time.
The problem with lapping is two fold. One is the grooves in the housings that the sealing o rings fit into. If too much material is removed there will be an insufficient depth here. The other problem is the nitride treatment. This is a process to toughen the metal. It is NOT a "low friction" treatment. It is an anti-wear treatment. Nitriding penetrates about 3 to 7 thousandths deep. Lapping may remove metal below the depth the nitriding penetrated. If this happens the plate will wear very rapidly in use.
There is a nationwide company called Moore-McMillan Industries that will re-nitride your plates. There are several other companies no doubt. I was fortunate that Moore-McMillan had a facility about 60 miles from me. They charged 150 bucks for all three plates.
Nitriding is a very heat intensive process. Any plastic in the plates such as injector diffusers will be melted. Lapping requires all the dowel pins etc be removed so the plates can be mounted correctly and the lapping stones have a flat surface to run over.
As far as lapping, a company called LAPCO in Lake Wiley S.C. has considerable experience lapping Mazda end housings. They lapped mine and did an excellent job. Their prices are very reasonable, but shipping is costs are the pits. If memory serves me they charge about 35 to 40 bucks a surface plus a 10 dollar clean up fee. The shipping was about 70 bucks each way.
08-12-02, 06:16 AM
#17
Originally posted by banzaitoyota
Here is some more INFO from some past posts:
Lapping may remove metal below the depth the nitriding penetrated. If this happens the plate will wear very rapidly in use.
Here is some more INFO from some past posts:
Lapping may remove metal below the depth the nitriding penetrated. If this happens the plate will wear very rapidly in use.
Not sure I understand this..
Rat
Edit: Okay, after several readings...May have gotten it. So Pineapple has this process done if need be?
Last edited by J-Rat; 08-12-02 at 06:21 AM.
550
08-12-02, 12:47 PM
#20
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Last I knew you werent offering warranties
ask whatever engine builder you choose if he /she is using NEW housings and who laps their plates
For the record Pineapple is getting a lot of positive reviews
I am not here to directly compete with guys like Pineapple etc. We do different types of work, and this is explained in detail on my webpage. IF you have the funds for a nice, tight, new rotor housing and lapped side housing, all new part, bearing adn cooling modified motor, then by all means go for one of the others, because said engine will run better and last longer than an engie I will build. This is not due to poor worksmanship on my part, just excellent worksmanship on Rob's part, plus the fact he is using newer parts.
IF, however, you canot afford the thought of dropping 3k on a motor, or even 2k, then Im your man. I can get your car running again, running strong to last for several years to come, for a minimal cost compared to anyone else in the market. IT is this niche, and this one only, that I want to fill int eh community; I dont have any interest in building race motors etc., anything more than a SP is something I dont want to work on because I know an engine with some used parts in it will not stand up to heavy/hard driving/racing.
08-12-02, 02:05 PM
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Kevin, for the record I am not knocking you. They specifically asked about warrenty's and I was giving them food for thought between Hayes, Atkins and Pineapple. The deciding factor for me was My phone conversations with Rob and the new housings, and the warrenty.
The cost of the motor is only part of the equation. Rad Flush, Cooler Flush injector cleaning new hoses, gaskets, Those details make the difference in a quality "total engine installation" and slapping in a new engine.
Look at all the people on this forum who have been jerked around by a certain major rotary rebuilder, who; when presented with a warrenty claim, shout" oil contamination! and don't honor the warrenty. There is another nameless builder who has a decent 1 and 2 gen reputation, but whose name is **** on the third gen list. Hmm there goes 2 out of the 3.
there is a niche for a bargain rebuild, but like you say, you don't warrenty which is what the man asked for.
The cost of the motor is only part of the equation. Rad Flush, Cooler Flush injector cleaning new hoses, gaskets, Those details make the difference in a quality "total engine installation" and slapping in a new engine.
Look at all the people on this forum who have been jerked around by a certain major rotary rebuilder, who; when presented with a warrenty claim, shout" oil contamination! and don't honor the warrenty. There is another nameless builder who has a decent 1 and 2 gen reputation, but whose name is **** on the third gen list. Hmm there goes 2 out of the 3.
there is a niche for a bargain rebuild, but like you say, you don't warrenty which is what the man asked for.
Last edited by banzaitoyota; 08-12-02 at 02:08 PM.
08-12-02, 02:44 PM
#22
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
there is a niche for a bargain rebuild, but like you say, you don't warrenty which is what the man asked for
I am considering offering a 1 year 12k mile warranty, which appears to be inline with what most other shops offer. What do you guys think about this?
I have also considered offering something longer, like a 2-24 or 3-36, on *labor only* meaning that the customer must still buy the replacement parts.
Which would you guys recommend/be comfortable with?
08-12-02, 03:09 PM
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Hypntyz7 I was considering you about a week ago.If you offer a 1 year warranty on a 13bt and keep the cost around $1000 your gonna have people lined up at your shop. Ill be 1st in line.
Yeah J-specs are shady but you know what, Im not gonna drop 3k on a Pinneapple rebuild when I have no FMIC, a shitty stock turbo, not enough fuel, and the tendency to beat the **** out of my car. Ill cry alot less when I pop an $800 motor than 1 worth 3k. A J-spec will save me money so I can put it towards all the things listed above, the next year, when I'm ready, Ill give Pineapple a call.
Yeah J-specs are shady but you know what, Im not gonna drop 3k on a Pinneapple rebuild when I have no FMIC, a shitty stock turbo, not enough fuel, and the tendency to beat the **** out of my car. Ill cry alot less when I pop an $800 motor than 1 worth 3k. A J-spec will save me money so I can put it towards all the things listed above, the next year, when I'm ready, Ill give Pineapple a call.