Firelance

Found a 88' Turbo in Utah. I've requested a compression check, condition of the transmission and oil burning data (trick question ). Anyway, wondering if you all think $3500 is a lot to pay for it, considering I'd have to fly out there. Also, it has 120k miles or so. Yes, this is the car listed on autotrader. I'm a college student and I work a part time job. But will go full time during the summer. I've saved enough money to purchase it and cover insurance with a conservative estimate. Any suggestions on how much maintence will cost assuming it is fairly good condition? I really miss driving . I don't plan on doing any performance upgrades soon, only suspension and handling.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

If there are no problems with the car, and it in good shape all around, then the price is fair. Though it could be lower.

Maintenance will entirely depend on how much you do yourself, and how well the car was taken care of...A few hundred a month is a good guess.

InfiniIIIREX

Try to get it for $3000 if everything checks out okay, and tell me how he anwsers the oil question Spending money on good maintenance will save you from paying big bucks in the long run.

vaughnc

Definitly make sure he takes the car to the mazda dealership and asks for the "ROTARY COMPRESSION TEST." You should get 3 sets of numbers (3 per rotor).

Make sure the car is warmed up before they do the compression test.

That's your most accurate measurement of how the internals are doing

Maeda

Need a ride to Utah? ^_^ Don't forget to add that in to your cost.

Firelance

Hi all, thanks for the advice. He wrote back with more details, It sounds like the car is in very good shape since he recently replaced a lot of the parts. The compression was "good" the last time he checked it at 110k and the mechanic told him later it wasn't necessary to check it again at 120k. He also offered to drop the price to $2700 and meet me at the airport.The only problem was the ac wasn't working and the exhaust wasn't going to pass emissions because the air injector was damaged. There is also rust appearing on the sunroof.

All in all it sounds like a good deal $2700 + 100 for airfare. If anyone has anything else to chip in (or make me a better offer ). Lemme know.

Oh he said he added one quart of oil every 2500 miles which sounds about right. Anyway, thanks to everyone for the advice.

vaughnc

probably just need to reconnect the air pump.

Just don't be afraid to so NO, especially if you feel something just isn't right. There's always another FC out there that's a better deal.

I'd talk to him in depth before flying out.

I flew to Maryland from Atlanta to buy mine. Even though I talked to him he "forgot" to mention the broken rear suspension links ($200), warped intake manifold ($60 used), cracked plastic intake piping (self repairable), and plastic nose damage ($200 used).

Didn't mind this though as I have a 1991/92 Turbo II in Brave blue which is rarer than the 10thAE and red GTU-S

You'll probably do much better than me though. Don't be surprised if the wiper switch needs a self repair or the typical repairable 3800rpm hesitation.

-- vaughnc

gvink

he sure was ready to drop the price in a hurry. seems a bit odd that there is not ONE PERSON in Salt Lake City who wants to buy his car. I am somewhat skeptical that this is a great car.

if it doesn't pass emissions, that's gonna be a problem for you in Seattle, right? (I used to live in Spokane, and had a Triumph TR6 that I could never get to pass emissions, so I only licensed it every other year ...)

if it were me, I'd look harder in the Seattle area -- it's not like you're living in Walla Walla. Put a classified ad in the Sunday car ads under Mazda saying "starving college student wants clean RX-7 turbo." check out the local RX-7 club -- that's a good way to find good cars, although club members often have inflated views about what their cars are worth.

that said, if the Utah car is in decent shape, a turbo shouldn't cost more in maintenance than a non-turbo, except maybe more frequent oil changes because you're running hotter.

oh, another good "trick" question -- ask him for the VIN so you can run a Carfax check on the mileage, title, etc. If he won't give it to you ... run away. I am truly amazed at all the cars I see out there for sale from the '60s or '70s claiming ridiculously low mileage -- it's just wonderful what can happen when you replace a broken speedometer.

that said, I bought my own RX-7 on E-Bay last year (a true steal), bought a Healey in Seattle while I was living in Spokane (flew out to drive it back and discovered 'look ma ... no clutch.' I flew back home, but bought it anyway), and bought a Triumph in Indiana that I found on E-Bay and had it trucked, sight unseen, to Virginia. Plus I bought a Saab at a wholesale auction here in Virginia. So I'm kind of a believer in going with the gut feeling ... do you have a good gut feeling about the seller?

anyway, good luck! And congratulations on your excellent taste in automobiles.

Last, but not least, I have a friend in Salt Lake City who owes me many favors. I could ask him to look at it for you? send me a PM if you want.

dra_gon_lee

There's always going to be something wrong with the car, you didn't know about or ask about. I kinda regret getting my car after all now... I got my 87 for 2200 with a 60K 88 jspec and a bunch o mods done to it. Anyways yes, go with your guy, and call, and talk to him alot...

BoostedRotors

Sounds to me like you spent a while saving this money and that you're looking for something thats going to last a while with little maintenance, which I totally understand...because let's face it, 3k is a lotta bread to a student.

I think that if you're still in school, spending all your money on a Turbo RX-7 with 120k might not be the smartest thing. Chances are that it has been abused, it is a turbo after all. This could be wrong and that car could go another 120k without a problem, and I hope thats the case. Realistically however i don't feel that's going to happen. Im sure people could tell you stories of getting 150k plus out of their turbos, but im also sure that more would agree that around 120k (generally)...**** starts to break! Im not trying to scare you...just trying to give you the other side. Good luck with whatever you decide.