chris28

I'm looking at this TII for sale at some shop near me, asking price is 3500. thats pretty steep for me, but I was wondering what you guys think of it. Body needs a little work, and the hood isn't shut all the way (reason for it looking messed up) I'm gonna go by there either friday or saturday with a checklist and see if i can get him to drop the price any. also, the engine was just rebuilt, if that has any effect on the price.

lchaidez

iTrader: (4)

its a TII and, the exterior doesnt have any serious dings, or bangs... it looks stock as well, which gives you the opportunity to fix it up yourself. In other words... more money is going to be involved so if your not looking to spend 3500 or less and additional money for maintance and or upgrades thats cool.

Oh and you mentioned the engine was rebuilt... i suggest some type of invoice, or receipt. I can say my engine was rebuild and bs my way through the customer. If its anything serious like that always ask for proof, or have a buddy of yours (who knows rotary or engines in general) to inspect it.

The checklist wont really help unless you have the majors... test drive it... i mean ask him/her questions. Was the car abused? driven casual... or what?

Sorry one more thing... if you get the chance run the VIN please... ive seen tons of people sell stolen FC's lol...

Leme tell you... if ima buy a car ill drive it the way im going to drive it every day... if the car doesnt meet my needs... theres always another buyer. but remember this!! fc's can be quite the wallet eaters if you dont take care of it. Have a good one! and let us know how it goes this sat. Later!


Edit: Right, so if the exterior and the rest of the components work (engine, ac, power steering, drive train, etc...) i think its an ok deal... but you can always haggle if you know how haha~

DJRcustoms

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/buy2.htm

^Great link for what to look for in a TII.

As far as the rebuilt motor, it could change the price by a bit, but not majorly unless it either didn't have a motor to begin with or it was blown. Good luck!

chris28

thanks for the input, that website is what I put my checklist together from. When I go i'll get the vin, see the mileage, and ask if he has any receipts that pertain to the engine rebuild. The body has a few marks, but nothing that looks too bad. I just got my license, so Im not gonna test drive it, but the guy said that he would start the engine, and I'll ask if I can do a compression test (take out the plug, listen for the pshhh shound). I'll also ask him if he can drive me down the street and back, see if there is any noticable hesitation (I know im not driving it, but i know about the 3500-4000 rpm lag and stuff like that). I'm also gonna look for rust in the common spots, see if I can bring down the price a lil bit. The engine bay looked pretty clean, and when I breifly looked at i saw no rust, so that might be an indication of the rest of the car. One more thing, the windsheild tags on the car expired in '99, so I'm guessing the car was not driven since then. Im pretty sure the guy knows his stuff, cause i've seen him drive away in a 3rd gen, and it didnt sound stock. the only thing left to do now is hope my parents let me buy it haha

riverzendz

Find out why that hood doesn't close. If it all looks good and you decide to pass, let me know. I'm near by and may be interested.

chris28

sure thing. My sister comes home from college in a week or two, and then we are going to try to convince my parents that we need another car. My argument is that this will be a family car, and once my little sister has her licnese and I have enough money, I am going to buy the car from the family. In the mean time, they pay for insurance, and I get to drive it. only if it were that easy haha. If its a definite no then reverzenz I'll get back to you with my checklist results and take some pics of the interior and more of the outside for ya.

sintri

the front right (left in the pics) looks a bit off, might just be from the cover being not there and that white streak, it could have taken a hit to that side and which might be why the hood's not able to fully close but I don't know. Don't think arguing to have a 20 year old manual car's gonna work as a family car but anyhow, good luck, where in va was this?

KeloidJonesJr.

iTrader: (8)

Make sure the frame is untouch. If it is running, refuse. If it is, offer him 3000 - 3200.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Buy the water-capable Bobcat.

lchaidez

iTrader: (4)

its either that, or he couldnt get it to pass the smog check to get the new registration so he gave up... this smells fishy!! lol...

Edit: Then again im in LA lol.... good luck once again!

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

get a comp test before buying!

chris28

haha, the bobcat does look like it has an outboard on it, i actually think the bobcat is holding it up off the ground. I'm not sure about the family car thing, but if i'm going to be buying it back then that might be the key factor. and I'll definately check the compression tomorrow when i go. thanks for all the input

chris28

Ok, I went to check it out today, and the guy that owns the shop easnt ther,e but I got some answers. First off, the hood does shut all the way, it was just not latched in the pics. Second, the engine did not have a rebuild, the guy said that it was a "jap spec" engine, so im guessing its an s5 engine. pretty cool. There were no visible rust spots, just a lil where the firewall meets the chassis. The interior is in really good shape, and everything else seems to be just fine. I'll get some more pics later, I didnt have my camera with me.

-Chris

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

compression numbers?

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Get compression numbers for that engine. Remember that there are series 4 and series 5 engines. The same goes for the Japanese, so "jap-spec" can mean s4 or s5. A good majority of J-spec engines aren't in the greatest of conditions, hence the importance of a compression check.