I am in the process of swapping a 87 non-turbo motor into a 73 Opel GT. I don't have much experience with what emissions/relays and other miscellaneous parts on rotary motors that are really needed to have the motor run correctly. This will be primarily a show car, but I do want it to be at least somewhat reliable for some driving, but keeping the engine bay clean and unobstructed is also important to me. Anything absolutely required will likely have to be relocated out of the engine compartment. Is there anyone out there that can give me an idea of what can be reasonably removed without negatively effecting the engine?

 

Search for "rats nest removal"

 

thanks a bunch!

 

You might also want to consider running a full standalone. The install will be much neater, you can ditch the 20 year old wiring and you can tune it yourself to suit whatever mods you plan on.

 

This rotary thing is pretty new to me and I've spent the last couple weeks reading through many threads about taking emissions stuff off and it's a little overwhelming. Give me a big block chevy motor and I know just what to do but I've never dealt with rotary motors and don't want to do something stupid to the motor. By running full standalone are you talking about ditching everything and converting to a natural aspirated system? I am going to keep reading and learning abou the rotary itsself which may enable me to ask some non-moronic questions.

 

A "standalone" is a generic term for an aftermarket fuel injection computer. It totally replaces the stock ECU (and generally the wiring harness) to give you complete control over fuel and spark. In your situation, as long as you are familiar with the concept of tuning, it's probably the best solution.

However if you have no tuning experience then you might want to stick with the stock ECU. You can remove basically all of the factory emissions equipment and strip the harness down to the bare minimum but on the stock ECU it will never run quite right...