gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

no, just no...

luis911

iTrader: (2)

header - CHECK
full exhaust - CHECK (single exhaust) will dual make a difference
washerbottle area cold air intake -will do
tuneup (plugs and wires) - CHECK
retard the timing manualy aprox 3-5 degrees - What does this affect?
run trailing plugs in all 4 positions - Need to do research on this
TII fuel pump - will do
50-75 wetshot - whats this?

Scrims

iTrader: (2)

Nitrous.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=633853

noskillz

you CAN turbo an n/a motor, but doing a tii swap will be cheaper in the long run. if you want the car to be reliable dont turbo it, or put nitrous on it. Wait until your done with school and can afford something else to DD, and then swap your fc. turbo/v8/ 20b, whatever you can afford

JerryLH3

iTrader: (11)

Sorry to go on a rant here, but why can't people just enjoy N/A FCs for what they are? A nice, fairly lightweight, good handling car that you can drive hard, and (if in good working order) will practically never strand you.

I miss my N/A dearly. That car was great, it had 230k on the chassis and 90k on a rebuild that ran flawlessly. I could push it all the time, it never let me down, plus I could buy 87 octane.

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

^An NA FC is a blast on the twisties, but if someone lives in FL or any area thats flat and doesn't have mountains I can understand the urge to want boost. When I moved to FL my car was damn near useless, I never even wanted to drive it.

I think here are two ways to have a blast with an FC, with boost (big turbo, standalone) and in the twisties with the right suspension/wheel/tire/brake/chassis mods. You're not fully utilizing the car if you haven't experienced each of those things.

I have a 6 port turbo car, I've probably put over 10,000 reliable miles on it. Boosting the engine is easy as hell. Read a book about turbos and forced induction, learn from other people's experiences (on this board) and set some time out for it.

And I would love an NA-T section.

MadScience_7

+1!

I love my N/A. It may not be the fastest thing around, but if I was that concerned about speed, I wouldn't have 200lbs of sound system in the back. I can still outrun damn near anything coming downhill out of the mountains. Even when the engine blew at 60k on a hack job rebuild, it still had enough juice to get me home from work.

While I do have long term plans for a turbo, it won't be until after I have another DD. Even then I'm only planning on about 8lbs boost. Enough to notice, but nothing extreme.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

A lot of silly in this thread...But anyway, here's how to match the TII LIM to the 6 port block as some have alluded to:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/4PortLIMTo6Port.htm

dennis blackstone

dont waste you time with bolt ons ..ive been there done the dyno tests ,for exhaust and filter and other little things like header etc ..i lost power...if you want power just do a swap ...its not as hard as you think...theres plenty of help on this forum ..if you want it load do the bolts on and trick your mind that your going fast...if you need help on the swap were here

luis911

iTrader: (2)

would you say that doing that, and slapping on a turbo set up(even with low boost), reliability will go down the drain?

gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

making more power then what an engine was originaly designed for will cause more stress and lead to a shorter lifespan, reliablity can fall into this catigory depending on your definition...

using four (4) trailing plugs, a TII pump (in good condition), and retarding the timing 3-5 degrees will help prevent detonation when using Nitrous, making it "safer" to use on the crude N/A ecu tune maps.

dollar/HP you cannot beat nitrous oxide, it wins hands down everytime.

dual or single exhaust makes no differnce (other then sound, weight, and looks), as long as it works well (no/minimal bottle necking)

Blackstone; you havent shown enough information about your car to credit your claims of LOOSING power. I can see a shortram powerloss from heat, and if your 5/6th ports (and vdi depending on if you have/had a s5 engine) were/weren't working corretly. If they were not, then i could easily see losses due to the fact that you would loose "low" rpm intake vilocity, thus making the car have less power down low and no powergains "up top".

Aaron cake littiraly wrote the book on turbo 6ports, he's the man (with a mullet).

dennis blackstone

it can work if you have your fuel ratios right and a standalone ..but it would be cheaper to drop in a jsec from a reputable company

bottom line is if you get 3lbs you will end up turnig up the boost and booooom

NI_Racing

iTrader: (4)

^ yup. Cuz we all turn up the boost and blow up our Rotaries
Silly kids... what were we thinking

I too lost power when modding my FC. Gutted cats... lost 5th 6th port. Switched to RB header and 2.5 exhaust to RB muffler.... still no working ports. Tied ports to air pump, still had relatively the same power as i had b4. Fixed massive exhaust leak, picked up 10whp. With a stock intake, Rb full exhaust, no leaks, and decent plugs i was at 146rwhp. Just the exhaust and i had gained back my drivetrain loss.

If you do modifications correctly, and thoroughly, there is less "chance" for power loss and reliability issues. It doesnt matter what mod(s) you do, just do it the best way you can, and work on making it more efficient as you learn more.

fc323

man u guys are wienies when it comes to boost.
i mean i know the engine is way different than piston but a turbo isn't a monster that will instantly kill your car

gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

no, but its butt buddy detonation is an evil monster that will instantly kill your engine in some instances...

luis911

iTrader: (2)

What causes detonation? too rich or too lean fuel amount? rapid deceleration in gear? is that the popcorn noises when i let off the throttle in gear at high rpm?(which I dont do at all, only when I first started driving the car)

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

you mentioned no ecus upgrades...so assume youre wanting to run this setup on a STOCK NA ECU? ...sounds like a winner!!

you obviously havent had an fc for very long...

Scrims

iTrader: (2)

Tell ya what. You boost your FC the way those civic folk boost their cars and let us know how it turns out.

I'm jumping on the band wagon for an NA-T section. People need to learn to tap the information that this board holds. This topic has been covered so many times it makes my head spin. You can't just throw on the port matched LIM and the turbo, add some boost and call it a day. The NA ecu has no idea what boost is and won't compensate for it, so you either have to put in the TII electronics or go standalone. Look for any post by RotaryRocket, he has a link to a great thread in his signature that deals with this.

In the words of the internet: lurk moar.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

What is the point of even doing this with low boost? If you are going to go through the trouble of turbocharging your NA, do it properly.

Don't screw around with the stock turbo. Get a proper aftermarket turbo. For sub 300HP levels, GT3076R. For 350-400HP, GT35R, for 400HP - 500 HP, GT40R.

Start from the beginning with a standalone. Yes, you can run boost on the stock TII ECU and manage it with piggy backs. You can also run boost on the stock NA ECU. Or get an RTek. But if you start from the beginning with a full standalone and NEW EFI wiring harness, you now have full control over the engine and know that the wiring is not questionable.

Now, be honest about your ability, goals and funds. Putting the TII intake manifolds on the 6 port block is the easiest way to make this happen and to avoid all the fabrication. However, in my opinion, it is also the wrong way. It takes away the primary strength of the NA block; aux ports. While I love my bridgeported turbo-NA that puts down over 500 RWHP, and it is easy to drive, my next turbo NA build will be far less crazy and maintain the working 6 port system for unbeatable low end torque.

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

i have to agree with aaron here, if you wanna run a stock turbo setup buy a tii or do a full swap. honestly, this is exactly what i would have done (rather than doing a 6port turbo like i have now) but i just had my NA block rebuilt and ported so i saw it as advantageous to keep it rather than buying a tii keg with god knows how many miles.

also, i have to agree with aaron on another point. although using a portmatched tii LIM is the EASIEST way (thats what i run as well), i can tell you from experience that you will sorely miss your low end. if you have the ability and resources, keping the 6 port system functional would be ideal.

im in for an NA-T section as well, it seems like there are enough threads about the subject in the main 2nd gen subforum to make a whole new forum, let alone a mere section in the rotary car performance subforum

Frostycrowd

iTrader: (9)

I am using a 100 percent stock 6 port short block right now and I have had good results so far. Easiest and safest method is to go standalone and port the intake manifold like Aaron explains.

I am running a rather large turbo and only around 10 psi and it runs harder than my previous streetported motor with 9.0 rotor 4 port ever did on 15psi.


Its all about tuning. But you are far from anything with just the turbo and piping.

Best tip... Listen to Aaron.

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

Holy crap, 9.4 rotors+a t70???!! Well at only 10psi and a standalone I guess its cool, but damn that's badass. Nice setup dude.

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

I think nitroracer has a 9.7 engine with a T70 with much more boost, I think 18psi with AI?

I would also highly advise against using the stock turbo and electronics but if your budget is tight and you have no other choice it will work, and probably keep you entertained until you can afford more.

You can run only the stock TII electronics without aftermarket add ons if you want a safe reliable engine and you are satisfied with low boost. I run a stock 9.7 engine on the TII ECU, AFM and MAP @ 5-6psi. It runs smooth with a 900 rpm idle and acceptable (although rich) AFRs. It goes lean (12s) until 3800rpm and pig rich until redline (11s, mid 10s). Not ideal by any means but acceptable for a low budget setup. You are losing money with this poor setup though so if you can afford to wait or spend more then do a full standalone and aftermarket/modern turbo like Aaron suggested.