i believe its easy, but some pictures or diagrams would make perfect how-to which lot of guys would appreciate tough....

 

Make sure that if you ditch the fuel press ( orange solenoid), you connect it to a vaccuum source after the TB, i.e. bottom nipple on back of TB or upper intake.

Gregg

 

This is all a good read, but like most of the guys I need diagrams too. Anyone kind enough to draw some up? Also, does anyone know which solinoids correspond with which color?

 

Pressure regulatorsolenoid- orange
Switching solenoid- gray
Relief solenoid- blue
Twin scroll turbo solenoid- green
EGR solenoid- yellow

 

Just a question, What is the throttle body mod?

 

It's a mod that does away with the thermo- wax, fast idle cam, dash pot, coolant flow through the TB, and secondary throttle plates. Do a search and you will find a very nice how-to with pictures.

Gregg

 

Geez I thought mine was clean now it just looks like a rats nest

 

Anyone able to make some diagrams for us ? 87-88 TII motor at firs, then if its for NA guys 86-88 diagram
Detailed pictures appreciated as well....

thanks

 

anybody ?

 

Up.

 

Kind of hard to diagram, dude. When you start takin' off smog ****, a lot of the lines take care of themselves. I have an '87 TII, all the solenoids are gone.
Might be easier to tell you what lines are left.
spider to oil injectors
line between middle two oil injectors to nipple on back of TB, second from top
line from ACV block off plate to pressure sensor, can also tee into line just behind BAC, whitch is also intact.
Connect presure reg line to vaccum source after throttle body( bottom nipple on back of TB or intake.
Everything else is either capped or being used for boost guage, boost controle device, etc. All lines on vaccuum tree are unused except fuel lines and PCV.

Hope this helps, Gregg

 

Oh, forgot twin scroll ( green solenoid). A lot of guys here say it doesn't work very well. Supposed to help turbo spool up quickly then open for more boost. Prolly should fix actuator door in open position if you take this off. I'm sure lottsa guys here are more qualified to advise you about this.

Gregg

 

either way, diagram of **** which will stay or photos would really help

and what about difference in series 4 and series 5 cars and na/turbo ?

would like to have best to go setups in here and save it for later use

 

Hey what does the vacuum line coming off the TID go to? I wasn't paying attention when I pulled the rack off. Do I even need that thing?

 

Nevermind.

New question. WTF is the switching actuator? Do I need that? My first TII stayed relatively stock, I havent fucked with many (near stock) TII's till now.

 

is the switching actuator one of the solenoids? then its for the air control valve. and no you dont need the thing that goes into the tid, mine wasjust haging out in the breeze for 9 months

mike

 

I see the switching solenoid, and then theres a switching actuator. I'm looking at the factory guide, and from what I can tell the switching actuator is on the front of the exhaust manifold under the turbo. But I don't know for sure.

 

Oh yeah, my egr, bac, acv, split air pipe, and the cold start thing have all been blocked off. I'm in the middle of putting the intake back together after ripping the vacuum **** off and putting new vacuum line and fuel line in.

 

bdc promised to post some info here for us ;o)

 

You call that an empty engine bay???





-Ted

 

Holy ****, Ted has returned. My guess is Jesus is next.

 

I have an '89 TII so I didn't need to worry about the twin scroll. I have removed the following:-

1. air pump (this is put back once a year to pass emissions with (2))

2. ACV ( I cut the ACV apart ~1/2 thick inch to make block-off plate - with connector for port air to pass emissions - normally blocked off)

3. all the solenoids (wired replacement resistors in to fool ECU)

4. the hard piping ( I used a dremel cutoff disk to separate the fuel lines so they could be reused - I didn't like the idea of long flexible fuel lines across top of the engine.)

5. Throttle body mod

6. All cold start kit (thermowax etc)

The front 'vacuum connections on the upper intake have all been blocked off. The lowest rear one connects directly to the FPR. The upper rear connections go to their original positions.
The BOV and pressure sensor connect to the vacuum fitting just behind where the ACV used to go

The only detrimental effects I have found is that I must 'heel and toe' for the first few minutes on cold mornings to avoid possible stalling, and the exhaust stinks at tickover without the air pump blowing thru the 'port air'
The advantages - apart from a much neater engine bay - are better pick-up from partial throttle, and a smoother top end.

I am still looking for a way of tricking the ECU into running in 'closed loop' at tickover - if anyone has come across a way of doing this - or knows anyone else who is trying, i would like to hear from them

 

I'm working on doing all of the above, I'll take pictures of what I have so far if you want.

 

Well, you take it apart this far:


Remove the rack, make new fuel lines. Block off everything (ACV, EGR, BAC, etc.), remove the switching actuator and wire the door open. (You can leave the solenoid if you don't want to mess with the flapper. I just took my turbo and manifold off since I was porting the wastegate, and took the flapper out and TIG'd over the resulting hole).

Put it back together. The vacuum lines left should be:

Boost sensor, BOV (tee'd together), FPR (stick anywhere downstream of the TB), and the 4 oil injector vacuum lines. They go to the spider looking thing, and hook to the backside of the upper intake. Buy some screw protectors from the hardware store and block off any unused vacuum nipples.

Put it all back together and enjoy.

 

Geeze, you guys are too hardcore for me. I like my heat/airconditioning.