Going "Bare Block"
01-05-02, 03:51 PM
#27
Full Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Lees Summit, MO
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Make sure that if you ditch the fuel press ( orange solenoid), you connect it to a vaccuum source after the TB, i.e. bottom nipple on back of TB or upper intake.
Gregg
Gregg
01-05-02, 04:17 PM
#28
Glock Lover
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Currently residing in St Charles, MO
Posts: 2,223
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is all a good read, but like most of the guys I need diagrams too. Anyone kind enough to draw some up? Also, does anyone know which solinoids correspond with which color?
01-05-02, 07:19 PM
#31
Full Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Saint Joseph, MO
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's a mod that does away with the thermo- wax, fast idle cam, dash pot, coolant flow through the TB, and secondary throttle plates. Do a search and you will find a very nice how-to with pictures.
Gregg
Gregg
01-07-02, 11:57 PM
#36
Full Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Saint Joseph, MO
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Kind of hard to diagram, dude. When you start takin' off smog ****, a lot of the lines take care of themselves. I have an '87 TII, all the solenoids are gone.
Might be easier to tell you what lines are left.
spider to oil injectors
line between middle two oil injectors to nipple on back of TB, second from top
line from ACV block off plate to pressure sensor, can also tee into line just behind BAC, whitch is also intact.
Connect presure reg line to vaccum source after throttle body( bottom nipple on back of TB or intake.
Everything else is either capped or being used for boost guage, boost controle device, etc. All lines on vaccuum tree are unused except fuel lines and PCV.
Hope this helps, Gregg
Might be easier to tell you what lines are left.
spider to oil injectors
line between middle two oil injectors to nipple on back of TB, second from top
line from ACV block off plate to pressure sensor, can also tee into line just behind BAC, whitch is also intact.
Connect presure reg line to vaccum source after throttle body( bottom nipple on back of TB or intake.
Everything else is either capped or being used for boost guage, boost controle device, etc. All lines on vaccuum tree are unused except fuel lines and PCV.
Hope this helps, Gregg
01-08-02, 12:05 AM
#37
Full Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Saint Joseph, MO
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh, forgot twin scroll ( green solenoid). A lot of guys here say it doesn't work very well. Supposed to help turbo spool up quickly then open for more boost. Prolly should fix actuator door in open position if you take this off. I'm sure lottsa guys here are more qualified to advise you about this.
Gregg
Gregg
01-11-02, 01:15 AM
#39
Super Newbie
Originally posted by j9fd3s
you guys are making it a lot harder than its really is. after you are done you have 3 vacuum lines (2 if you ditch the twin scroll)
stuff you need: acv, egr block off plates, about 2feet if 5/16 high pruessure fuel hose, some 3.5mm vacuum line
1. remove plenum
2. do tb mod
3. remove entire vacuum rail
4. remove egr and acv
5. the fuel press regulator now plugs into the unused vac nipple on the back of the intake
6. the twin scroll on one side of the solenoid needs to plug into the front of the intake, and then go into the twin scrol pipe in the back
or you can just ditch all of that and wire it open
7. put it back together
mike
this is how i had mine ecxept that the vacuum rail was still on the car
you guys are making it a lot harder than its really is. after you are done you have 3 vacuum lines (2 if you ditch the twin scroll)
stuff you need: acv, egr block off plates, about 2feet if 5/16 high pruessure fuel hose, some 3.5mm vacuum line
1. remove plenum
2. do tb mod
3. remove entire vacuum rail
4. remove egr and acv
5. the fuel press regulator now plugs into the unused vac nipple on the back of the intake
6. the twin scroll on one side of the solenoid needs to plug into the front of the intake, and then go into the twin scrol pipe in the back
or you can just ditch all of that and wire it open
7. put it back together
mike
this is how i had mine ecxept that the vacuum rail was still on the car
01-11-02, 05:51 AM
#40
Super Newbie
Originally posted by Felix Wankel
Hey what does the vacuum line coming off the TID go to? I wasn't paying attention when I pulled the rack off. Do I even need that thing?
Hey what does the vacuum line coming off the TID go to? I wasn't paying attention when I pulled the rack off. Do I even need that thing?
New question. WTF is the switching actuator? Do I need that? My first TII stayed relatively stock, I havent fucked with many (near stock) TII's till now.
01-11-02, 09:57 AM
#41
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,890
Received 2,638 Likes
on
1,868 Posts
is the switching actuator one of the solenoids? then its for the air control valve. and no you dont need the thing that goes into the tid, mine wasjust haging out in the breeze for 9 months
mike
mike
01-11-02, 10:05 AM
#42
Super Newbie
Originally posted by j9fd3s
is the switching actuator one of the solenoids? then its for the air control valve. and no you dont need the thing that goes into the tid, mine wasjust haging out in the breeze for 9 months
mike
is the switching actuator one of the solenoids? then its for the air control valve. and no you dont need the thing that goes into the tid, mine wasjust haging out in the breeze for 9 months
mike
01-11-02, 10:07 AM
#43
Super Newbie
Oh yeah, my egr, bac, acv, split air pipe, and the cold start thing have all been blocked off. I'm in the middle of putting the intake back together after ripping the vacuum **** off and putting new vacuum line and fuel line in.
02-17-02, 06:17 PM
#47
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Southampton, England
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have an '89 TII so I didn't need to worry about the twin scroll. I have removed the following:-
1. air pump (this is put back once a year to pass emissions with (2))
2. ACV ( I cut the ACV apart ~1/2 thick inch to make block-off plate - with connector for port air to pass emissions - normally blocked off)
3. all the solenoids (wired replacement resistors in to fool ECU)
4. the hard piping ( I used a dremel cutoff disk to separate the fuel lines so they could be reused - I didn't like the idea of long flexible fuel lines across top of the engine.)
5. Throttle body mod
6. All cold start kit (thermowax etc)
The front 'vacuum connections on the upper intake have all been blocked off. The lowest rear one connects directly to the FPR. The upper rear connections go to their original positions.
The BOV and pressure sensor connect to the vacuum fitting just behind where the ACV used to go
The only detrimental effects I have found is that I must 'heel and toe' for the first few minutes on cold mornings to avoid possible stalling, and the exhaust stinks at tickover without the air pump blowing thru the 'port air'
The advantages - apart from a much neater engine bay - are better pick-up from partial throttle, and a smoother top end.
I am still looking for a way of tricking the ECU into running in 'closed loop' at tickover - if anyone has come across a way of doing this - or knows anyone else who is trying, i would like to hear from them
1. air pump (this is put back once a year to pass emissions with (2))
2. ACV ( I cut the ACV apart ~1/2 thick inch to make block-off plate - with connector for port air to pass emissions - normally blocked off)
3. all the solenoids (wired replacement resistors in to fool ECU)
4. the hard piping ( I used a dremel cutoff disk to separate the fuel lines so they could be reused - I didn't like the idea of long flexible fuel lines across top of the engine.)
5. Throttle body mod
6. All cold start kit (thermowax etc)
The front 'vacuum connections on the upper intake have all been blocked off. The lowest rear one connects directly to the FPR. The upper rear connections go to their original positions.
The BOV and pressure sensor connect to the vacuum fitting just behind where the ACV used to go
The only detrimental effects I have found is that I must 'heel and toe' for the first few minutes on cold mornings to avoid possible stalling, and the exhaust stinks at tickover without the air pump blowing thru the 'port air'
The advantages - apart from a much neater engine bay - are better pick-up from partial throttle, and a smoother top end.
I am still looking for a way of tricking the ECU into running in 'closed loop' at tickover - if anyone has come across a way of doing this - or knows anyone else who is trying, i would like to hear from them
02-17-02, 11:12 PM
#49
Super Newbie
Well, you take it apart this far:
Remove the rack, make new fuel lines. Block off everything (ACV, EGR, BAC, etc.), remove the switching actuator and wire the door open. (You can leave the solenoid if you don't want to mess with the flapper. I just took my turbo and manifold off since I was porting the wastegate, and took the flapper out and TIG'd over the resulting hole).
Put it back together. The vacuum lines left should be:
Boost sensor, BOV (tee'd together), FPR (stick anywhere downstream of the TB), and the 4 oil injector vacuum lines. They go to the spider looking thing, and hook to the backside of the upper intake. Buy some screw protectors from the hardware store and block off any unused vacuum nipples.
Put it all back together and enjoy.
Remove the rack, make new fuel lines. Block off everything (ACV, EGR, BAC, etc.), remove the switching actuator and wire the door open. (You can leave the solenoid if you don't want to mess with the flapper. I just took my turbo and manifold off since I was porting the wastegate, and took the flapper out and TIG'd over the resulting hole).
Put it back together. The vacuum lines left should be:
Boost sensor, BOV (tee'd together), FPR (stick anywhere downstream of the TB), and the 4 oil injector vacuum lines. They go to the spider looking thing, and hook to the backside of the upper intake. Buy some screw protectors from the hardware store and block off any unused vacuum nipples.
Put it all back together and enjoy.
