rxsevnn

iTrader: (1)

My new installed oil cooled only to4b turbo and exhaust manifold is glowing red at idle. From cold start takes about 3 minutes to get red. I tried starting with no downpipe and the exhaust mani and turbo still glow. can a turbo oil drain line thats almost parallel with the ground cause a red turbo? Also heard too much retarded timing can cause this.I have a .093" oil restrictor to the oil feed.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Not enough timing, or too much fuel.

Or both.

Make sure your CAS is stabbed correctly. Zero your timing by locking timing on your standalone to 5 degrees then adjusting the CAS to make sure the pointer lines up with the leading mark on the pulley.

If that's all good, then bump the timing at idle to around 15 degrees in your ignition map.

Should be idling around 13:1 for AFRs, leaner if possible.

Make sure the leading is firing and you're not just running on trailing.

rxsevnn

iTrader: (1)

Cool thx aaroncake! Ill try that. I did have a problem with my CAS drive gear being put in backwards when rebuilding my motor. I had to grind the CAS slot just to be able to line up to the 5ATDC correctly. And yes i tried moving one tooth over on the CAS but it was too far to reach 5ATDC in either direction.

Do you think i will have a problem with this CAS gear being backwards with the chamfer facing the wrong way? I feel like even if im at true 5ATDC, the timing is still retarded maybe 10 to 15 degrees.

Im running a haltech e8. Dont really have a good base map for my setup 550cc prim 720cc secondary injectors.. Can anyone help out with that? Thx so much guys.. first time with a standalone and to4b turbo.

rxsevnn

iTrader: (1)

Oh btw i do have the one piece racing beat pulley so i know my timing marks are exact.

junito1

SOmetimes when zeroing timing with EMS the CAS slot wont be enough and you have to change the trigger offset. DOuble check your timing, make it right and then let us know if its still glowing.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

a backwards CAS gear inside the engine will only affect where the CAS slot lines up when timing the engine, it will not affect the actual timing of the engine. this is because you are checking the actual firing position of the engine, do not think about anything being incorrect with the CAS, just worry about the marks lining up with the timing light correctly. as junito said you shouldn't need to ever slot out the CAS with the haltech, the offset should allow you to put the CAS wherever you want it but i always try to keep the window narrow so that the offset won't run out of staging room(with the timing set the double point gear inside the CAS should be facing the trigger somewhere in the black housing area before or at the actual trigger point with the engine set at 5*ATDC with the engine off).

and if the filter level is set too high in the haltech then the engine will begin to cut out firing sequences, basically it will only fire on every 2nd rotation and not every rotation so use the filter level to get it running/starting smoothly and leave it there.

using a wideband you would know whether the idle is excessively rich or not. without a smog pump the idle AFRs should be in the neighborhood of 12-13.5AFRs, a health non ported engine will be able to idle with higher AFRs(leaner) than a modified or lower compression engine would.

and idle timing is important, if the car doesn't need to be smogged then i bump the idle timing up to about 15-22 degrees where it will still idle smoothly. 0 degrees results in more afterburn in the exhaust but it also makes the exhaust run hotter, this helps emissions but hurts for heat soak.

rxsevnn

iTrader: (1)

Cool I got everything running smoothly on the haltech at one point and the turbo did not glow red! Next problem I have is that I can only get spark to go through the spark plug wires ONLY when I partially pull off the boots on the coils. With the boots fully seated on the coil I will get no spark, and I verified this with a timing light and also arcing the spark plug end of the wires onto the chassis. My setup is two trailing coil packs modified to run in direct fire on the haltech (trailing coil mod write up by banzai racing).

The car idles fine though when I have the boots partially off. However, once they are fully seated onto the coil then it will be hard to start and wont even idle.

any ideas? Thanks guys

rxsevnn

iTrader: (1)

It only has spark when the boots look like the picture attached.

sp0ngebob

iTrader: (1)

probably just arent seated properly. take a small screwdriver and pry the boot back a little to "burp" it when its fully seated.

rxsevnn

iTrader: (1)

Hmm i burped it like you said. Still no spark with the blots fully seated. Ive tried 3 sets of sparkplug wires amd still no spark detected by the timing gun when the boots are seated. Any ideas?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

sounds like your dwell setting is too low which isn't allowing the coils to charge sufficiently before trying to fire the plugs. dwell for stock coils is usually 3-4Ms. also make sure the coils are getting close to battery voltage otherwise the ignition will be weak and that the plugs are clean/new.

rxsevnn

iTrader: (1)

Rotary Evolution. My Charge time is 4.5 ms. I did test the 12v Power supply to the coils and it shows 12v even during cranking. I have a feeling one of the Ignition Drivers might be fried on my Haltech E8. Any way to test these Ignition Drivers?

My car wont even start anymore... and It only sparks once from the Leading coils (removed sparkplug boot at coil to hear/see discharge) immediately after trying to crank the Starter. No sign of Trailing spark.

rxsevnn

iTrader: (1)

Im thinking of buying LS1/LS2 coils and trying direct fire with those instead of the Two Modified Trailing Coil Packs I have. Maybe the spark might work.. worth a shot but i really want to test the ECU to see if the IGNITION drivers are ok (hopefully i dont need to send it to Haltech for repair)

Let me know if anyone has 4 LS1/LS2 Coils for sale thanks!

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

Almost nobody uses those anymore because of their random discharge characteristics. IGN-1A coils are what you want.

bumpstart

the only one documented to self protect is the D585 ls7 truck coil

it is only a problem if dwell exceeds 5.5 ms..

and that will occur on those ecus that revert to duty dwell when cranking
or if you physically stick a stupid time in an ecu with fixed dwell or dwell map

ls1 coils are a different bird to ls2/7 units and the plug wires up differently

they offer less spark but at a reasonable duration and are very durable
and for years this was the basic "haltech" supplied coil with inbuilt igniter

at around 4.5 ms they are strong enough for most pump fuel motors

if they come up at a good price then they are worthy enough for most

if you wish to pay a little bit more and get a stronger HEI spark that will cope with more boost and AI or e85 then the IGN-1A is best choice for inbuilt igniter coil

rxsevnn

iTrader: (1)

Cool thanks for the info guys really helpful. I remember reading a thread somewhere comparing the ls1, banzai racing trailing coil mod, and the ign 1-a coils. I think the trailing coil mod put out some good numbers compared to ls1. Ill try and find the link.

But what do u guys think of the two trailing coil packs i have modded for directfire? My setup is TO4B, front mount intercooler, 720cc prim and 1600cc secondary? Would it be sufficient enough spark once i start upping the boost?

rxsevnn

iTrader: (1)

Little update. My car started i guess my battery needs to be replaced. I kind of want a dry cell any recommendations? Want to stay away from optima heard kenda? Is good.