2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Girlfriend blew up my car. maybe.

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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 09:57 PM
  #26  
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pegging the gauge is good, just like redlining the motor right? duh!
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 10:32 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
Based upon this, I have come to the conclusion that people from Cincinnati are dumbasses.
hey now, i specifically said pegging the temp gauge is not a good thing at all. i was just trying to give him some hope that his motor mightve made it out alright.
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 10:34 PM
  #28  
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I don't let anyone sit in the drivers seat of my 7, nevermind allow them to drive her. I wish you the best but reading your post made me cry.
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 11:07 PM
  #29  
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may this be a lesson to all, DONT LET NO ONE TOUCH YOUR S***
bout time to look for a new GF huh? jk
sorry about your engine man
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 11:12 PM
  #30  
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no one ever said the engine is toast yet, sheesh..
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 11:17 PM
  #31  
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Still waiting for the word...
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 11:35 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Karack
no one ever said the engine is toast yet, sheesh..
Well if I had money on it, I know which way I'd bet.
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 11:42 PM
  #33  
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that really is dependent if he got lucky and got some good casting irons, i have seen a few irons that are very nice and fat all the way around the coolant seal wall but they are very few and far between.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 08:35 AM
  #34  
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ok heres the situation as of yet:

i replaced the fan and fan shroud, car cranked up fine, drove it around, seemed to be fine. over last week, i drove it around town, to work, etc. so i think its ok. it boosts normally, not leaking anything. everything is fine and dandy, THEN....

im pretty sure this is an un-related problem, and i think i know the answer to it. last saturday, as im driving home from work, the car suddenly dies. like i just turned off the key. it cranks back up (still rolling and all) and i continue on, then it dies again. this happens 6 times before i get it home (work is like 11 miles from my house).

to give a little background, i bought this car (originally an 87 tII, which was totalled, swapped the motor to this 88) from a guy that had rebuilt the motor (which he does as a job). when i went to pick it up, it had a stuttering problem that he hadnt mentioned, however said he could fix real quick, which he did, i thought. drove the car home friday night, died on sunday. to make a long story short, over the course of two months i had to take it back and forth to him a few times before we figured out it was a loose intake ground. that car was doing the same thing my car is doing now.

anyway, back to saturday. i get home, and i had one of those ground kits laying around, so i put that on the car, hoping it would fix the problem. i put it on, grounding everything i can. i then take it down the street, everythings going ok, im getting on it, sliding around, etc, to test it, and everything is going ok. so thinking that the problem is fixed, i head for the house, and on the way it dies. except this time i was mid-corner at about 75 or so with the rearend kicked out. basically i end up in a ditch with the front right corner smashed.

so right now my baby is sitting at home with half the front end off and me wanting to set it on fire cause im so frustrated. im thinking the intake ground must have worked itself loose again, but i wasnt there when it was fixed the first time, so i dont know where it is. after work saturday ill get into it and try to get it back on the road.

Last edited by twincannon26; Jan 24, 2007 at 08:44 AM.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 09:06 AM
  #35  
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Umm.... perhaps it would have been wiser to not be pulling erratic maneuvers with a car you weren't totally certain was running properly?
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 09:24 AM
  #36  
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nah, if im gonna test it, im gonna test it.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 02:39 PM
  #37  
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i don't even think professional drift circuit guys are doing 75 when they bank a corner with the *** end...
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 05:16 PM
  #38  
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it was more of a swooping curve. either way, i still ended up in the ditch.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 05:35 PM
  #39  
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little piece of advice:

NEVER, EVER post a thread on this forum until you have tried everything simple or what comes to mind first.

people on here are a bunch of elitists who LOVE to tell someone that their motor is toast when they actually dont have a damn clue what's going on. If i tossed a motor averytime it exhibited the symptoms that people on here say make it trash, I'd have had a hundred of them by now.

Now, all you people who want people to respect the 7, then post up here telling people the worst case scenario every time someone has a problem like this, think about this for a minute: why do you think rotaries have a bad reliability reputation? Its because of dumbasses like you, constantly telling people how broken their **** is every time they have a problem. Get over it, and dont post unless you have actual knowledge to back up what you say AND the op posted enough information that you know its true.

Pat
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 06:55 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by twincannon26
it was more of a swooping curve. either way, i still ended up in the ditch.
ive had a similar problem of the cars ecu and ignition just cutting out randomly

the wire that goes to the IGN circuit ( responcible for power in the key in the on position) it was coroded and someone had cut it and but a connector in it... maybe it is lose or something??
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 08:21 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by patman
little piece of advice:

NEVER, EVER post a thread on this forum until you have tried everything simple or what comes to mind first.

people on here are a bunch of elitists who LOVE to tell someone that their motor is toast when they actually dont have a damn clue what's going on. If i tossed a motor averytime it exhibited the symptoms that people on here say make it trash, I'd have had a hundred of them by now.

Now, all you people who want people to respect the 7, then post up here telling people the worst case scenario every time someone has a problem like this, think about this for a minute: why do you think rotaries have a bad reliability reputation? Its because of dumbasses like you, constantly telling people how broken their **** is every time they have a problem. Get over it, and dont post unless you have actual knowledge to back up what you say AND the op posted enough information that you know its true.

Pat
You know, no matter how many times you or anyone else says this, it still won't make a difference. It's the same way on every single car forum I post on. Everyone knows exactly what the problem is and exactly how f'd your car is because of it. And post count really makes no difference (I say this because I have, what, 2 posts maybe, lol). Anyway, that's too bad about your car, twin, but was the damage cosmetic only, or structural as well? My 7 is currently sitting under its cover with its own issues.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 08:39 PM
  #42  
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Have you compression tested the engine yet? I swear it's like people dismiss the compression test and would rather go about solving everything without having done it. We need a damn flowchart. THE first thing to do when you have any kind of issue like this should be to run a compression test. Following that would probably be vacuum lines. Some people are quick to get on someone's *** when they mention a compression test. It's simple and takes maybe 15 minutes if that.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 09:22 PM
  #43  
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Was it a left corner?

I'd say if it was a left corner its the tank rusted or bad sok in there. You could also have a pump on the verge of failing. My car did that right before the pump failed.

By intake ground do you mean the ground under the intake manifold by the rear inspection plate? If it is working itself loose I do hope you use some thread locker on it because it was on there tight on my 87. Check the grounds on your starter as well to make sure they're clean as well as the chassis ground, also check your battery terminals, if they are mishapen they can seem ok but erratically make your ar die especially if you dont have that great of an alternator.

Also, its a rebuilt engine if it's ported. Maybe teflon coolant seals were used on it?
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 09:32 PM
  #44  
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spazz!
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Have you tried pulling codes from your ECU?
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 09:34 PM
  #45  
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I'll say it again. Compression test.


Compression test.



COMPRESSION TEST. When I test it, I test it.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 09:49 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by adrock3217
I'll say it again. Compression test.


Compression test.



COMPRESSION TEST. When I test it, I test it.
If he posts again tonight without having done the compression test I think I'm leaving the thread. This is of course unless he's been THAT busy with other things. I don't know why people have to be strong-armed into doing a CT.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 10:26 PM
  #47  
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The engine wouldnt run anywhere near as well if there was significant damage to the seals, i believe this is a ompletely different problme now.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 10:53 PM
  #48  
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you guys and your damn compression test. do you bother to even think about what you are saying?

A. he overheated. that means that it is possible he dmaged the coolant seals. in which case, a compression test tells you jack ****. a leaky coolant seal will lower the compression by an imperceptible amount, but is totally obvious, because the car will either belch coolant smoke if its bad, or puke coolant if its minor.
B. He already said he fixed the fan and drove it around a few days, and now he has erratic sudden power losses. If low compression causes sudden dramatic power losses at erratic intervals, than I'm a monkey.

as i stated above, it would be nice if all you people who act so smart actually took the time to consider what you are saying, because not only do you look like idiots, but you could concievably lead inexperienced mechanics to try and fix something that isnt broken, and lose lots of time and money in the process.

pat
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 11:15 PM
  #49  
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spazz!
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Originally Posted by patman
you guys and your damn compression test. do you bother to even think about what you are saying?

A. he overheated. that means that it is possible he dmaged the coolant seals. in which case, a compression test tells you jack ****. a leaky coolant seal will lower the compression by an imperceptible amount, but is totally obvious, because the car will either belch coolant smoke if its bad, or puke coolant if its minor.
B. He already said he fixed the fan and drove it around a few days, and now he has erratic sudden power losses. If low compression causes sudden dramatic power losses at erratic intervals, than I'm a monkey.

as i stated above, it would be nice if all you people who act so smart actually took the time to consider what you are saying, because not only do you look like idiots, but you could concievably lead inexperienced mechanics to try and fix something that isnt broken, and lose lots of time and money in the process.

pat
He overheated; that means it's possible he warped a housing and/or rotor. He fixed the fan. That doesn't mean that the housing stops being warped. Last time I checked, a compression test costs only as much as the compression tester. Mine cost me ~$23 from SEARS. Before you try to make us feel stupid for suggesting a compression test, check your spelling.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 11:22 PM
  #50  
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gosh pat... dont be an *******

oh, btw...go feed my fish.
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