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Hello, looking for a little advice. so I have recently changed and updated all my strut and springs (both front and rear). After doing this and a bunch of replacement bushings, my manual says to be sure to have a competent shop dial in the alignment. So i took it to a mazda dealership that I was confident they had the right expertise and equipment. my car is a 1987 FC GXL. the report testing came back pretty good. on to my question. the rear wheel camber is off by -2 degrees both sides because I lowered the car with new springs. I was told to buy an adjustable rear camber vertical link (called sublink in my manual). but there are different opinions on whether this strategy would actually give me flexilibity to remove -2 degress. OR option two, is the 2nd pictures which are from mazda trix site as well, showing adjustable rear camber links. would using that strategy to remove the negative rear wheel camber work better? thanks for any help.
looks like the picture got cut off but these are to replace the sublink and not sure if they can do -2 degree adjustment?
sorry another picture that got cut off. these are the rear camber links, also on mazda trix, wondering which option is best to get my rear wheels aligned again
That design of individual links has been known to break. I'm not a fan.
There is a much better set from Ronin Speedworks. Powered by Max also has a non-adjustable version.
I used the single bar and was able to get to about -.5 deg when I had a pretty aggressive drop on coilovers. Unfortunately, each can't be adjusted.
Use fixed links from Ronin or PBM as stated. There is a little adjustment in both of these fixed links. You can use the slop in the bolt holes to even out slight differences side to side. I got about a degree of camber change from this method. There seeems to be about half a degree of adjustment per bolt.
Correct me if I am wrong..
I seem to recall some thread about the Individual links being "just so much adjustable" and if overdone can lead to a busted link..
I'm not educated in the field of Camber,etc so I can't tell ya any more than that...But I would think that of you used all 3 you could get a decent amount of Camber taken out/Put in./.whatever.
(I just drive my car..if it starts,runs,stops I drive it!)
anybody been running these for any length of time to comment?
these are initially adjustable but the downside to them that I see is
a. once cut down to size there is very little thread left---so you would have to weld them once you get the desired camber set.
b. you are kind of limited to the size of the bolt in there, i.e. bigger holes means larger/longer rod ends...so you can't use misalignment spacers to get the correct width but side spacers...not sure if that's a big deal but the load on the bolt is then just across the width of the rod end instead of the whole misalignment bushing. easier to bend the bolt in that arrangement.guess you can use stronger bolts if worried.
c. not adjustable on the car. you would need to unbolt at least one side to shorten or lengthen.
upsides
a. you can even out camber side to side unlike the pbm or Ronin ones which are equal length ..or pay for the supernow ones
b. unlike the adjustable camber links ...the load on the link is inline so you shouldn't have problems bending/shearing the bolts like the awr/mazdatrix or older mmr ones.
c. they are cheap and easy to make except for the welding part.
06-27-17, 11:25 AM
