Getting my TII Running
#27
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
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It ran before you messed with it and replaced the intercooler.
YOU did or undid something that is causing a fuel delivery problem.
IF you hadn't mentioned fuel coming out the fuel feed line I'd have thought it was a disconnected fuel pump relay/resistor package. But that isn't so.
How can it suddenly be fuel injectors when it ran fine before?????? Unless you unplugged the primarys when putting on the stock intercooler. Not likely since you didn't mention removing the upper intake manifold. So that isn't it.
Sounds like a large air leak or afm disconnected or the like. With a large air leak it's still start with starter fluid given you sprayed enough of it. Large air leak as in at the turbo inlet duct at the trubo. Or cracked turbo inlet duct at the turbo. Or the air hose of the BAC not connected up and being wide open. Or brake booster feed line left off.
A disconnected water thermosensor will cause extremely difficult cold starts until the engine gets fully warmed up. Then it'll start and idle normal. Water thermo sensor on the back of the water pump housing. Green. Two wire.
YOU did or undid something that is causing a fuel delivery problem.
IF you hadn't mentioned fuel coming out the fuel feed line I'd have thought it was a disconnected fuel pump relay/resistor package. But that isn't so.
How can it suddenly be fuel injectors when it ran fine before?????? Unless you unplugged the primarys when putting on the stock intercooler. Not likely since you didn't mention removing the upper intake manifold. So that isn't it.
Sounds like a large air leak or afm disconnected or the like. With a large air leak it's still start with starter fluid given you sprayed enough of it. Large air leak as in at the turbo inlet duct at the trubo. Or cracked turbo inlet duct at the turbo. Or the air hose of the BAC not connected up and being wide open. Or brake booster feed line left off.
A disconnected water thermosensor will cause extremely difficult cold starts until the engine gets fully warmed up. Then it'll start and idle normal. Water thermo sensor on the back of the water pump housing. Green. Two wire.
#28
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Could possibly be injectors clogged as the fuel tank is hella-low (why we thought it could be the fuel filter getting clogged with crap at the bottom of it).
Even if it was a pretty sizeable air leak, it should still start though, shouldn't it? It would just run like crap or die once it's started. But it's just not starting at all without engine starter.
Will have a look at water thermosensor too next weekend.
Even if it was a pretty sizeable air leak, it should still start though, shouldn't it? It would just run like crap or die once it's started. But it's just not starting at all without engine starter.
Will have a look at water thermosensor too next weekend.
#29
pp
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Central Massachusetts
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take the primary fuel rail off and take the injectors out, crank it over and make sure fuel is getting to them. You said you unplugged the fuel line and did this so im assuming it is. If fuel is getting to the injectors then it is one of two things. Sticky injectors/clogged injectors or the injectors are not opening due to an electrical issue. make sure the ground on the top of the engine(or where ever the ecu/injectors ground on the s5 jdm car) is good and clean.
#30
Senior Member
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Friend who was checking it out yesterday couldn't get the intake manifold off for some reason. He said it should be just a few bolts and it would drop off, but this thing didn't want to budge. And before you say anything, he's definitely someone who knows what he's doing with the FCs. But he's gonna take a hammer and some other tools to it next weekend and get it off!
So not sure if there is fuel getting to the fuel line or not. If there is then you're right - it will be down to the injectors either being clogged or not firing. If I can zero it down to one component, then I can test, repair or replace as necessary. Nice point about the ground on the injectors though - definitely worth a look.
So not sure if there is fuel getting to the fuel line or not. If there is then you're right - it will be down to the injectors either being clogged or not firing. If I can zero it down to one component, then I can test, repair or replace as necessary. Nice point about the ground on the injectors though - definitely worth a look.
#31
Dave,
Hailers and Karack know their ****. I have long found their posts useful. What we (YOU hehe) need to do is what they said. The car ran like CRAP when the front mount was on it. But it ran. I had it and it ran like a champ. The guy that owned it after that really messed it up.
It is completely possible that the CAS is jacked.
It is also possible that there is (are) vacuum leak(s). We can get a pressure tester no problem.
We also need to check the water thermosensor.
We will get it buffed out, no time lately with college and my single FD project...
Hailers and Karack know their ****. I have long found their posts useful. What we (YOU hehe) need to do is what they said. The car ran like CRAP when the front mount was on it. But it ran. I had it and it ran like a champ. The guy that owned it after that really messed it up.
It is completely possible that the CAS is jacked.
It is also possible that there is (are) vacuum leak(s). We can get a pressure tester no problem.
We also need to check the water thermosensor.
We will get it buffed out, no time lately with college and my single FD project...
#32
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
I know bro - you've got your own stuff to take care of and I completely understand that. So things we (read "I") need to check out are:
Water thermosensor connection
Vacuum leaks
Fuel getting to and coming out of injectors
Injectors being grounded out
CAS
Anything else I think of...
Water thermosensor connection
Vacuum leaks
Fuel getting to and coming out of injectors
Injectors being grounded out
CAS
Anything else I think of...
#33
Full Member
(FYI - This is a 1991 Japanese model Turbo FC)
I removed the frontmount as it was a hack job in there and I needed to clean some stuff up. Anyway, after installing all the stock crap, the car would not start on its own. I check fuel, air, injectors, etc etc. Everything was there, just no start. I used a bit of engine start fluid and the car would fire right up. It would even stay running as long as I stayed on the throttle a bit. As soon as I left off the throttle, the car would die and not start on its own again. (without the engine start fluid)
I have yet to try to push start the car, but I do not think that will really get me anywhere. If anyone has any ideas, it would help out alot. I need to get this car running so I can get rid of it. Otherwise, I am going to junk it and I hate to do that to a potentially good running car.
Thanks.
I removed the frontmount as it was a hack job in there and I needed to clean some stuff up. Anyway, after installing all the stock crap, the car would not start on its own. I check fuel, air, injectors, etc etc. Everything was there, just no start. I used a bit of engine start fluid and the car would fire right up. It would even stay running as long as I stayed on the throttle a bit. As soon as I left off the throttle, the car would die and not start on its own again. (without the engine start fluid)
I have yet to try to push start the car, but I do not think that will really get me anywhere. If anyone has any ideas, it would help out alot. I need to get this car running so I can get rid of it. Otherwise, I am going to junk it and I hate to do that to a potentially good running car.
Thanks.
#34
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Compression test was done I think and all figures come out fine. Should stress again that the car will keep started but only as long as the engine start spray is in there. Once it runs out, your foot can be to the floor and the engine will still die and not start again.
#35
Full Member
Ok well thats the first post that was made about compression and it wasnt stressed in the first post that it could b floored and it would keep running, that is why i quoted the post. i understand this now. if you dont mind my asking what were the comp numbers?
#38
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
I think it's been checked, but I'll add it to the list. Am actually gonna go up there myself on Monday and do some playing around with it. I've got very limited tools and knowledge but I'll try some basic problem-solving and also start replacing the old vacuum lines with some new silicone.
#39
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Join Date: Jan 2008
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cool man, just making sure. I couldnt count the times I went WAAAAY too in depth for a simple problem that I overlooked.
but I definitely think its a fuel delivery problem, (a vacuum leak still could be the culprit though) I believe you've already swapped the fuel pump with a known good, so thats good to go. you've already cheched that fuel is getting to the rails, and if the fuse is good for the injectors I would:
1) fuel pressure check (to eliminate the fuel pressure regulator)
2) get a multimeter or a noid light and check for voltage at all your injectors.
if those both check good I might start having the injectors checked.
good luck man, keep with it.
if those are good, then we can
but I definitely think its a fuel delivery problem, (a vacuum leak still could be the culprit though) I believe you've already swapped the fuel pump with a known good, so thats good to go. you've already cheched that fuel is getting to the rails, and if the fuse is good for the injectors I would:
1) fuel pressure check (to eliminate the fuel pressure regulator)
2) get a multimeter or a noid light and check for voltage at all your injectors.
if those both check good I might start having the injectors checked.
good luck man, keep with it.
if those are good, then we can
#40
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
it's possible the fuel lines got reversed somehow which would limit the fuel going to the injectors to pretty much nothing, i would check fuel pressure if you can get a tester and again it is possible it is just a rather large vacuum leak somewhere since so many hands seem to have been in this engine. the TID tends to crack on about 95% of the T2's i inspect and some are quite bad, which in turn causes the AFM to not be pulled open to keep the fuel pump turned on. several vacuum lines could be missing or unplugged as well.
while starting fluid would pretty much rule out timing and compression it doesn't 100% rule out a compression issue, since the ECU heavily relies on the engine to have decent cranking compression to deliver the right amount of fuel.
#41
Full Member
^agreed on the all injectors being junk at the same time, it is very unlikely. im still saying it could b a compression issue. could b something else but sounds awful close to my problem i had.
#43
Full Member
had fuel and had spark, but still wouldnt start. ultimately had low compression. it could b making so low that its not even making vacuum while cranking over therefore the afm will not read any airflow to cause the injectors to seem like they are not spraying or possibly they might not b activating if the ecu readings are off
#45
Manual Rack
iTrader: (50)
Didn't read thread just the last few post.
Since you cant get the car fully warm the comp test will be done while the engine is cold so put a little bit of MMO into each lower spark plug hole. (helps seal to give a better comp results)
And here's all the detail you need for compression test.
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ion_check.html
Since you cant get the car fully warm the comp test will be done while the engine is cold so put a little bit of MMO into each lower spark plug hole. (helps seal to give a better comp results)
And here's all the detail you need for compression test.
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ion_check.html
#46
Full Member
[QUOTE=soldave;9791846]If compression was bad, it wouldn't start at all, wouldn't it? In my situation, it will start and stay started as long as the engine start spray is in there burning.QUOTE]
Ya im starting to think its something else, not positive but ive been trying to do some research on it for ya. its still got me stumped
But in my case i had very low compression on the front rotor and would not even try to start while cranking, but if i push started it it would fire right up and i could drive it around as long as i kept it running above idle.
Ya im starting to think its something else, not positive but ive been trying to do some research on it for ya. its still got me stumped
But in my case i had very low compression on the front rotor and would not even try to start while cranking, but if i push started it it would fire right up and i could drive it around as long as i kept it running above idle.
#47
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Well I might be able to do something to it on Thursday but have come to a little bit of a stumbling block at the first hurdle (let me see if I can get even more cliches in there!). The bolts were taken off the intake manifold but that thing really didn't want to come off. My buddy who was trying to get it off reckons the previous owner (NOT n3philum) might have used some sort of liquid gasket or epoxy or something to stick the 2 together. Gonna try taking some wood and a sledge hammer to it. Don't worry - I'll be gentle but itis going to move!
#48
Full Member
ya i would definately say that is a stumbling point lol, ya make sure once you get it off there was no leaks, im not sure how sensitive these are to vacuum leaks but could be an issue, just look all around the intake to make sure nothing is holding it down somehow. still no answers on my part but i still research a few times a day for ya lol
#50
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Managed to get the intake manifold off today with the aid of a sledgehammer! There was fuel in the fuel rail and the injectors seemed to be firing from what we could see. Everything I try I am wishing it is not going to work right as that'll mean we've found the problem. Next up is going to be testing of the electrical system to find out if the ECU is sending a signal to the injectors to fire, and if it is whether it's getting through or not. Might do that tomorrow if I have the chance.