Ok then I agree with firebird, check the injectors out

 

It ran before you messed with it and replaced the intercooler.

YOU did or undid something that is causing a fuel delivery problem.

IF you hadn't mentioned fuel coming out the fuel feed line I'd have thought it was a disconnected fuel pump relay/resistor package. But that isn't so.

How can it suddenly be fuel injectors when it ran fine before?????? Unless you unplugged the primarys when putting on the stock intercooler. Not likely since you didn't mention removing the upper intake manifold. So that isn't it.

Sounds like a large air leak or afm disconnected or the like. With a large air leak it's still start with starter fluid given you sprayed enough of it. Large air leak as in at the turbo inlet duct at the trubo. Or cracked turbo inlet duct at the turbo. Or the air hose of the BAC not connected up and being wide open. Or brake booster feed line left off.

A disconnected water thermosensor will cause extremely difficult cold starts until the engine gets fully warmed up. Then it'll start and idle normal. Water thermo sensor on the back of the water pump housing. Green. Two wire.

 

Could possibly be injectors clogged as the fuel tank is hella-low (why we thought it could be the fuel filter getting clogged with crap at the bottom of it).

Even if it was a pretty sizeable air leak, it should still start though, shouldn't it? It would just run like crap or die once it's started. But it's just not starting at all without engine starter.

Will have a look at water thermosensor too next weekend.

 

take the primary fuel rail off and take the injectors out, crank it over and make sure fuel is getting to them. You said you unplugged the fuel line and did this so im assuming it is. If fuel is getting to the injectors then it is one of two things. Sticky injectors/clogged injectors or the injectors are not opening due to an electrical issue. make sure the ground on the top of the engine(or where ever the ecu/injectors ground on the s5 jdm car) is good and clean.

 

Friend who was checking it out yesterday couldn't get the intake manifold off for some reason. He said it should be just a few bolts and it would drop off, but this thing didn't want to budge. And before you say anything, he's definitely someone who knows what he's doing with the FCs. But he's gonna take a hammer and some other tools to it next weekend and get it off!

So not sure if there is fuel getting to the fuel line or not. If there is then you're right - it will be down to the injectors either being clogged or not firing. If I can zero it down to one component, then I can test, repair or replace as necessary. Nice point about the ground on the injectors though - definitely worth a look.

 

Dave,

Hailers and Karack know their ****. I have long found their posts useful. What we (YOU hehe) need to do is what they said. The car ran like CRAP when the front mount was on it. But it ran. I had it and it ran like a champ. The guy that owned it after that really messed it up.

It is completely possible that the CAS is jacked.

It is also possible that there is (are) vacuum leak(s). We can get a pressure tester no problem.

We also need to check the water thermosensor.

We will get it buffed out, no time lately with college and my single FD project...

 

I know bro - you've got your own stuff to take care of and I completely understand that. So things we (read "I") need to check out are:
Water thermosensor connection
Vacuum leaks
Fuel getting to and coming out of injectors
Injectors being grounded out
CAS
Anything else I think of...

 

I had this same problem on my car about two years ago, as long as the car was running it ran fine if i kept it revved up off of idle, i was out driving it on any normal day and it was running fine when i left, i was out cruising on the highway and then died on me goin off the offramp. i tried to start it but it just cranked and nothing, so i c you said you havent tried push starting it that is actually a good idea because thats how i got mine to start...it wouldnt start by cranking but would by push start??? so after push starting it i was driving it home i got on it and it still had all the same power as before my problem occured, so i was confused, i took it home and the same thing was going on.....now dont quote me i never tried using starting fluid but i had everything spark and fuel, but i did a compression test my rear rotor pulled good numbers but the front rotor only pulled 30psi...i havent seen anything about you checking compression so id go with that, im gonna say the engine is making low compression, and prolly due for a rebuild

 

Compression test was done I think and all figures come out fine. Should stress again that the car will keep started but only as long as the engine start spray is in there. Once it runs out, your foot can be to the floor and the engine will still die and not start again.

 

Ok well thats the first post that was made about compression and it wasnt stressed in the first post that it could b floored and it would keep running, that is why i quoted the post. i understand this now. if you dont mind my asking what were the comp numbers?

 

Not sure as I didn't do the test, but will try to find out for you.

 

this might a bit on the basic side... but have you checked your "injector" fuse under the hood?

I'm +1 on thinking this is a fuel delivery problem

 

I think it's been checked, but I'll add it to the list. Am actually gonna go up there myself on Monday and do some playing around with it. I've got very limited tools and knowledge but I'll try some basic problem-solving and also start replacing the old vacuum lines with some new silicone.

 

cool man, just making sure. I couldnt count the times I went WAAAAY too in depth for a simple problem that I overlooked.

but I definitely think its a fuel delivery problem, (a vacuum leak still could be the culprit though) I believe you've already swapped the fuel pump with a known good, so thats good to go. you've already cheched that fuel is getting to the rails, and if the fuse is good for the injectors I would:

1) fuel pressure check (to eliminate the fuel pressure regulator)
2) get a multimeter or a noid light and check for voltage at all your injectors.

if those both check good I might start having the injectors checked.

good luck man, keep with it.

if those are good, then we can

 

thanks, i can read perfectly fine. what are the odds again that both primary injectors are stuck completely closed again? pretty much not gonna happen(most of the time you will be able to fire over an engine even if only 1 injector is working properly). even on cars that i have pulled out of piles of garbage that have been sitting for 5+ years the injectors still worked well enough, injector issues are not nearly as common as many people on this forum make them out to be.

it's possible the fuel lines got reversed somehow which would limit the fuel going to the injectors to pretty much nothing, i would check fuel pressure if you can get a tester and again it is possible it is just a rather large vacuum leak somewhere since so many hands seem to have been in this engine. the TID tends to crack on about 95% of the T2's i inspect and some are quite bad, which in turn causes the AFM to not be pulled open to keep the fuel pump turned on. several vacuum lines could be missing or unplugged as well.

while starting fluid would pretty much rule out timing and compression it doesn't 100% rule out a compression issue, since the ECU heavily relies on the engine to have decent cranking compression to deliver the right amount of fuel.

 

^agreed on the all injectors being junk at the same time, it is very unlikely. im still saying it could b a compression issue. could b something else but sounds awful close to my problem i had.

 

What exactly was your problem?

 

had fuel and had spark, but still wouldnt start. ultimately had low compression. it could b making so low that its not even making vacuum while cranking over therefore the afm will not read any airflow to cause the injectors to seem like they are not spraying or possibly they might not b activating if the ecu readings are off

 

If compression was bad, it wouldn't start at all, wouldn't it? In my situation, it will start and stay started as long as the engine start spray is in there burning.

Ergo, you'd think a fuel issue somewhere.

 

Didn't read thread just the last few post.

Since you cant get the car fully warm the comp test will be done while the engine is cold so put a little bit of MMO into each lower spark plug hole. (helps seal to give a better comp results)

And here's all the detail you need for compression test.
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ion_check.html

 

[QUOTE=soldave;9791846]If compression was bad, it wouldn't start at all, wouldn't it? In my situation, it will start and stay started as long as the engine start spray is in there burning.QUOTE]

Ya im starting to think its something else, not positive but ive been trying to do some research on it for ya. its still got me stumped

But in my case i had very low compression on the front rotor and would not even try to start while cranking, but if i push started it it would fire right up and i could drive it around as long as i kept it running above idle.

 

Well I might be able to do something to it on Thursday but have come to a little bit of a stumbling block at the first hurdle (let me see if I can get even more cliches in there!). The bolts were taken off the intake manifold but that thing really didn't want to come off. My buddy who was trying to get it off reckons the previous owner (NOT n3philum) might have used some sort of liquid gasket or epoxy or something to stick the 2 together. Gonna try taking some wood and a sledge hammer to it. Don't worry - I'll be gentle but itis going to move!

 

ya i would definately say that is a stumbling point lol, ya make sure once you get it off there was no leaks, im not sure how sensitive these are to vacuum leaks but could be an issue, just look all around the intake to make sure nothing is holding it down somehow. still no answers on my part but i still research a few times a day for ya lol

 

well I appreciate it. Might actually get myself over there to take a look at the car, have a play and take some photos of the engine bay.

 

Managed to get the intake manifold off today with the aid of a sledgehammer! There was fuel in the fuel rail and the injectors seemed to be firing from what we could see. Everything I try I am wishing it is not going to work right as that'll mean we've found the problem. Next up is going to be testing of the electrical system to find out if the ECU is sending a signal to the injectors to fire, and if it is whether it's getting through or not. Might do that tomorrow if I have the chance.