2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

General question about sanding rust spots

Old Apr 11, 2006 | 11:30 AM
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General question about sanding rust spots

Well I am at the point where I will be selling my 88TII. I was never given the registration so I cannot drive it. What I plan on doing is cleaning the exterior rust spots and offering it up for sale to someone where their state only requires a bill of sale.

My question is what sandpaper should I use to clean up and prime the small rust spots?

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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 11:37 AM
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I thought RI only required bill of sale for cars 10 years and older anyway?
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Goofy
I thought RI only required bill of sale for cars 10 years and older anyway?
They changed the law several years ago. You must have a copy of the last oqners bill of sale regardless of the age of the vehicle. The car was last registered in Mass and I cannot get a duplicate unless I was the previous owner. As you can see he has not cooperated with me and therefore I will sell it or part the crap out of it. Perfect interior and runs great. The exterior has 3 or four small rust spotsw
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 11:55 AM
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Well I usually go down to bare metal about 3 or 4 inches bigger around the rust then primer. I then start with 120 (some use 80 but to me seems a lil harsh) and work my way down until it is smooth and even constantly checking with a countor gauge. Then use a tac cloth and cleaner to prep it. Make sure that the surface you are working on before you lay down anymore primer is moisture free or you could have rust coming back up through the paint down the road.

And how much are you selling it for.
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 11:56 AM
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Thanks...I am not sure yet but if i do I would at least want 2K for it...
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 12:03 PM
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From: We're all fine here now, thank you. How are you?
You should PM Notopistons hed probably buy it. Hes getting pretty deserate for a FC. I wouldnt mind having it but I dont have any cash. Wanna trade a 88GTU that has a brandnew motor in it and some cash lol.

But yeah back on track. Just work down what you have until its right. You can always put on more primer if you go to low. Roof sections are always the hardest for me to do, maily because its a convex curve and the suck at life. Again the countor gauge (or two) comes in handy there.

Last edited by fcdrifter13; Apr 11, 2006 at 12:08 PM.
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 02:08 PM
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Nice Price, someone's gonna jump on that.

I used POR-15 after sanding the rust off..

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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 02:32 PM
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yeah they pretty much have you on track...

the only things left out are:

1) if the steel is pitted, die grind (or use a small 3" grinder) the area until you get to the bottom of the pits - the spot WILL come back in now time if you don't clean out all the corrosion

2) 80 grit is fine for this, 80 grit will not scratch the steel any measurable amount more than 120 and as well will cut much faster (obviously)

3) BEFORE YOU PRIME - back sand aroudn the area with 400 grit past where your primer will estend to - other wise you will not be able to feather the edge of the primer properly.

4) Pay attention to the colour of the dust when you are 400'ing....if its the colour of the paint you WILL NOT be able to blend out the areas - you will need to paint the entiry of the panels...if its white then you're golden - you can blend out the spots and buff the joints and never see the repairs....if you know what you're doing.

5) Don't go cheap with materials - buy good **** or you will regret it, there is no other area where "you get what you pay for" is more prevalent then body work/paint - so please appease this one professional refinisher and buy good stuff...
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