About 2 weeks ago I got a 88 Tii. It needs some fixes mainly a rear caliper and new gaskets and vac caps to fix a couple of leaks. Right now on the car it has a walbro 255 pump, 550/750 injectors, full emissions removal and a/c removed, still has p/s. Not on the car I have a fmic, microtech lt8s, and turbosmart manual boost controller. I was wondring at 10psi, what the general hp would be for a setup like that, if you need anymore info about my car for a round-a-bout number, I'll be happy to provide that info. Until I can get it dyno tuned once everything is on it, Im going to street tune for the time being.

 

stock turbo stock port should be in the 220-230rwhp area. which is enough to be fun. once you've done the exhaust, the next bottleneck is the small stock compressor on the turbo.

 

got ya, right now I have a coksport catback exhaust, and no cats. I know I can push the stock turbo so far. I wouldnt go past 10 psi until I rebuild with full bridge port and all proper supporting mods along with bigger tubo. Right now the engine is all stock and added an fcd because when I drove it last I hit fuel cut and about smoked my face on the steering wheel, but know with the LT8s the fcd is no longer necessary.

 

were u at

 

FC3S Pro v2.0: From Mild 2 Wild - Power

 

about 15-20 min south of Anderson

 

Thanks for the link, I'm printing this off at work tomorrow.

 

FC3S Pro has some great tech info. Will cover virtually any of the bases you need until you get into more advanced/newer stuff//bigger numbers.

I suggest you favorite teh site.

 

Max boost to run is 12 on stock turbo. Intercooler upgrade With a wideband and safc, you should be fine. Id estimate 250to the wheels.
Would rather recommend you getting a rtek 1.7 for your setup and you can get one for cheap.

If serious about Bridgeport, you'd still need bigger injectors, much bigger turbo, exhaust manifold, custom inter cooler hot pipe, custom turbo inlet, custom down pipe. Don't know how knowledgable you are with these so just had to include some food for thought. Plus the price of a full rebuild and you're in more than a couple grand.

Can hit 280 with hybrid turbo, rtek ecu, wideband and safc maxing about 14 psi using boost controller. Hybrids can be found for like $400 and I'm unsure of max boost limit of say a bar stage 3, but with the microtech you should be able to break the limit of the stock boost sensor of 15 psi

 

The injectors I plan to run when I'm fully built, will be ID2000 primary and secondaries, dual walbro 450lph fuel pumps, new fuel rails. It already have a fuel pressure regulator on it. my exhause will be full 3" turbo back, as for what turbo to run, thats yet to be determined, the exhaust mani I was looking at a CXracing mani like this one cxracing.com: CXRacing 11 Gauge Thick Stainless Steel Turbo Manifold For 86-92 Mazda RX-7 RX7 FC 13B

 

My setup is good for around 260hp, completely stock turbo at 12psi. S5 turbo with the higher compression s5 engine with a "large" street port.

 

Do not ruin what sounds like a decent build with a crap manifold. Pay to play. Several vendors on here make EXCELLENT manifolds, in no particular order: Turblown, Glease Man, IRP.

 

Yea that's one thing I want to stay away from is cheap stuff, I was directed to CX by a local builder. I have a cheap eBay xs powersports mani that will never see a car because I know with a build car the welds will give out. I got it back when all I did was buy crap off eBay when I wanted to turbo my gtu. I'll look into the venders you posted. The fuel rails I'm going with are full function engineering from rx7store

 

Just looked at the Glease Man mani, that thing is hardcore and better price than the Turblown and couldn't find anything on IRP

 

Depending on your turbo choice/needs, Turblown is the only company offering a cast manifold (shorty) which they're pairing with EFR IWG turbos. Food for thought.

 

Yea I haven't made the choice if I'm going efr or not, but was thinking of maybe a turbonetics GTK 750, that's what Kyle Mohan ran on his RX8 in Formula D before he went 20b, I also talked to a BorgWarner Rep and he gave me a catalog and I talked to my buddy who runs a shop and said he will charge me cost for a Borg.

 

Depending on ultimate power goals, I'd personally go with a properly sized EFR turbo and Turblown manifold. No need to port the motor and you'll gain a huge range of power with limited lag.

Of course, you would need larger injectors and other supporting mods.

 

This build will eventually be track only

 

Well mostly track

 

That's kind of vague. This hints to me that you'd want a lower HP number with quicker spool. Once again, I'd go with an EFR set-up. I'm trying not to be biased but from all the reading I've done and the videos TURBLOWN has posted, I would definitely swing that route for my next turbo car.

 

Appreciate you taking the time to check out our products! The CDN dollar is so low right now, it's been a pleasure passing on the 32% savings to our US customers.

Here to answer any questions, john@gleasemanufacturing.com

 

The main thing I'm after is torque. Id like the least amount of lag at the low end while still running psi through the highend. Ive ridden in some cars where once you get over 5k-6k rpms, the car just planes out and quits pulling/building psi, and thats something I don't want.

I looked on your site and one thing I was unable to find is your efr manifold, I saw in your sig you are now offering them. Where can I find it?

 

Sounds like a bridgeport is not the way to go.

If you are mostly about torque, then a bridgeport won't give it to you. What will give it to you is a conservative port with a turbo sized for the midrange.

It depends too on your power goals.

 

No offense, but it sounds like you need driving lessons. See the SCCA Solo Autocross schedule for your area, go to an event, and find a good instructor who has a turbocharged car and can explain how the throttle is modulated throughout the course. This can be a walk-through, they can take you along as a passenger in their car, and/or they can ride along with you and tell you what to do. Most will help you for free at the event.

Once you fix your car, it will be perfect for learning with the current setup. I would not recommend increasing the power until you get some driving instruction, because you will then have a better idea of power goals and which aftermarket turbo to use.

 

None taken, I've driven in Autox many times in the past, just not with this setup. As for owning a forced induction vehicle, this is my first one. When it comes to porting, I'm not going to do it right away, this engine only has 7k tops on this rebuild that the previous owner did, It would be foolish to rip it all apart when it's not needed at the moment. I understand what your saying about getting drive time in before upping the power of the car, it's been almost 10 years since I've been behind the wheel of an FC let alone on the course. As for the car that would plane out and quit pulling at topend was a 2015 WRX. As for torque, maybe I was but vague on that. When I say torque I was'nt meaning low end torque. When I refered to lowend rpms I meant for the least amount of lag my appologies, which I would imagine would a lower A/R, I beleive the HT18 A/R is .86 and I know the higher you go with the A/R the longer it takes for the turbo to spool. Idk if I'm making any sense to you. I probably sound like someone at a ice cream shop trying to order a pizza.