Gearbox and rear iron separated, need help.
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Full Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 50
Likes: 4
From: Adelaide, Australia
Gearbox and rear iron separated, need help.
Hey all,
Ive got my engine and box out of the car (following a crash) to discover that these two components separated.
Looking at the attached pictures, the rear iron is beyond the welding point.
So I was wondering what my options were? Is it possible to replace only this iron? If so what is involved/needed?
The reason id like to avoid a full rebuild is that the engine itself is brand new from abut 30,000 Km's ago.
Also I'm a broke uni student so a cheap and easy solution would be appreciated.
Ive got my engine and box out of the car (following a crash) to discover that these two components separated.
Looking at the attached pictures, the rear iron is beyond the welding point.
So I was wondering what my options were? Is it possible to replace only this iron? If so what is involved/needed?
The reason id like to avoid a full rebuild is that the engine itself is brand new from abut 30,000 Km's ago.
Also I'm a broke uni student so a cheap and easy solution would be appreciated.
Was the damage caused by the crash? If so call the insurance company back.
Regarding the engine you can replace the iron, but you'll have to pull the engine apart again. Any time you pull apart you'll want to change the seals, but the bearings, apex seals will be fine.
Regarding the engine you can replace the iron, but you'll have to pull the engine apart again. Any time you pull apart you'll want to change the seals, but the bearings, apex seals will be fine.
You can remove just the rear iron, but the trick is keeping the remainder of the keg stack from expanding apart due to the rotor side seal springs. The ghetto-riffic clamping system has been shown within this very forum here. Seems worth a shot even though your rear iron has seen serious loading and perhaps yielded the tie bolts. You might consider replacing them as well.
Rednecks Unite!
Rednecks Unite!
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 50
Likes: 4
From: Adelaide, Australia
Crash was quite bad, chassis is gone, want to salvage the engine to drop in a new shell. As the interior is still mint, as is the diff and box. Im thinking the ghetto may be the perfect solution, I've seen that thread, but was hoping for some more detail and advice as to the actual process.
Insurance will not cover, as I only had 3rd party.
Thank you for your help and advice so far gentlemen
Insurance will not cover, as I only had 3rd party.
Thank you for your help and advice so far gentlemen
I've done done it more times then i probably should publicly share:
the first time was when another "engine builder" in my shop put together a motor but forgot the REAR oil control ring springs.. he got the front rotor, and front spring of the rear rotor, but forgot the rear rotors rear springs. car burned its entire oil pan in less then 5 mins. i offered up the idea to my boss of just tearing down the rear, but he told me to just pull it all apart. i still did it my way instead. had the car running again in about 6 hours i didn't remove the exhaust or the intake manifold, just the bolts for the manifold, and if was an N/a motor, the 6th port actuator has to come off( 2 screws/bolts).
I REALLY like the way team assault did it for the LeMons car.. but i also think its over kill, and my experience backs it up, i 've done it on freshly build blocks to swap out different apex seals( when using used junk sometimes you gotta do.) for a block that has been running for a thousands of miles, it may be a different story and the turn buckles are needed... but i would personally experiment without them and have to have a failure my way before changing my methods. at the end of the day what matter is a perfectly running car.
other times since the first
1was to replace a bad rotor housing, which you remove the middle intake stud, and it will slide right out.
2. broken/warped rear apex seals.
3. pinched coolant seal from ammiture build.
there are some important things to note/know
1. who made you coolant seals? how old are they/how many heat cycles?
i was using R/a teflon WRAPPED seals, R/a them self told me of having good luck in reusing they're seals if they were less then 40,000 miles and still mostly pliable.
in my experience, you can re use a coolant seal, inner or outer as long as they are still flexible, if you over heat them at all, they get hard, can actually melt and burn, and are no longer usable.
in the end you may pull of the rear iron with the intention of just replacing it, then see more damage then you were expecting, after all, it was wrecked, and much more could be damaged..
in your case you could try it, and see, then if it doesnt work plan for a full rebuild.. if you got the time to waste pulling a motor out and swapping a rear iron.. for me 6 hours in nothing.
(in my turbo fc, i have pulled the engine in 45 mins. from running to short block)
i've also removed a middle iron without taking apart the front cover stack(just back the pulley bolt off all but 4 threads, so you can lift the eccentric shaft) but thats a whole nother ball game.
the first time was when another "engine builder" in my shop put together a motor but forgot the REAR oil control ring springs.. he got the front rotor, and front spring of the rear rotor, but forgot the rear rotors rear springs. car burned its entire oil pan in less then 5 mins. i offered up the idea to my boss of just tearing down the rear, but he told me to just pull it all apart. i still did it my way instead. had the car running again in about 6 hours i didn't remove the exhaust or the intake manifold, just the bolts for the manifold, and if was an N/a motor, the 6th port actuator has to come off( 2 screws/bolts).
I REALLY like the way team assault did it for the LeMons car.. but i also think its over kill, and my experience backs it up, i 've done it on freshly build blocks to swap out different apex seals( when using used junk sometimes you gotta do.) for a block that has been running for a thousands of miles, it may be a different story and the turn buckles are needed... but i would personally experiment without them and have to have a failure my way before changing my methods. at the end of the day what matter is a perfectly running car.
other times since the first
1was to replace a bad rotor housing, which you remove the middle intake stud, and it will slide right out.
2. broken/warped rear apex seals.
3. pinched coolant seal from ammiture build.
there are some important things to note/know
1. who made you coolant seals? how old are they/how many heat cycles?
i was using R/a teflon WRAPPED seals, R/a them self told me of having good luck in reusing they're seals if they were less then 40,000 miles and still mostly pliable.
in my experience, you can re use a coolant seal, inner or outer as long as they are still flexible, if you over heat them at all, they get hard, can actually melt and burn, and are no longer usable.
in the end you may pull of the rear iron with the intention of just replacing it, then see more damage then you were expecting, after all, it was wrecked, and much more could be damaged..
in your case you could try it, and see, then if it doesnt work plan for a full rebuild.. if you got the time to waste pulling a motor out and swapping a rear iron.. for me 6 hours in nothing.
(in my turbo fc, i have pulled the engine in 45 mins. from running to short block)
i've also removed a middle iron without taking apart the front cover stack(just back the pulley bolt off all but 4 threads, so you can lift the eccentric shaft) but thats a whole nother ball game.
I've done done it more times then i probably should publicly share:
the first time was when another "engine builder" in my shop put together a motor but forgot the REAR oil control ring springs.. he got the front rotor, and front spring of the rear rotor, but forgot the rear rotors rear springs. car burned its entire oil pan in less then 5 mins. i offered up the idea to my boss of just tearing down the rear, but he told me to just pull it all apart. i still did it my way instead. had the car running again in about 6 hours i didn't remove the exhaust or the intake manifold, just the bolts for the manifold, and if was an N/a motor, the 6th port actuator has to come off( 2 screws/bolts).
I REALLY like the way team assault did it for the LeMons car.. but i also think its over kill, and my experience backs it up, i 've done it on freshly build blocks to swap out different apex seals( when using used junk sometimes you gotta do.) for a block that has been running for a thousands of miles, it may be a different story and the turn buckles are needed... but i would personally experiment without them and have to have a failure my way before changing my methods. at the end of the day what matter is a perfectly running car.
other times since the first
1was to replace a bad rotor housing, which you remove the middle intake stud, and it will slide right out.
2. broken/warped rear apex seals.
3. pinched coolant seal from ammiture build.
there are some important things to note/know
1. who made you coolant seals? how old are they/how many heat cycles?
i was using R/a teflon WRAPPED seals, R/a them self told me of having good luck in reusing they're seals if they were less then 40,000 miles and still mostly pliable.
in my experience, you can re use a coolant seal, inner or outer as long as they are still flexible, if you over heat them at all, they get hard, can actually melt and burn, and are no longer usable.
in the end you may pull of the rear iron with the intention of just replacing it, then see more damage then you were expecting, after all, it was wrecked, and much more could be damaged..
in your case you could try it, and see, then if it doesnt work plan for a full rebuild.. if you got the time to waste pulling a motor out and swapping a rear iron.. for me 6 hours in nothing.
(in my turbo fc, i have pulled the engine in 45 mins. from running to short block)
i've also removed a middle iron without taking apart the front cover stack(just back the pulley bolt off all but 4 threads, so you can lift the eccentric shaft) but thats a whole nother ball game.
the first time was when another "engine builder" in my shop put together a motor but forgot the REAR oil control ring springs.. he got the front rotor, and front spring of the rear rotor, but forgot the rear rotors rear springs. car burned its entire oil pan in less then 5 mins. i offered up the idea to my boss of just tearing down the rear, but he told me to just pull it all apart. i still did it my way instead. had the car running again in about 6 hours i didn't remove the exhaust or the intake manifold, just the bolts for the manifold, and if was an N/a motor, the 6th port actuator has to come off( 2 screws/bolts).
I REALLY like the way team assault did it for the LeMons car.. but i also think its over kill, and my experience backs it up, i 've done it on freshly build blocks to swap out different apex seals( when using used junk sometimes you gotta do.) for a block that has been running for a thousands of miles, it may be a different story and the turn buckles are needed... but i would personally experiment without them and have to have a failure my way before changing my methods. at the end of the day what matter is a perfectly running car.
other times since the first
1was to replace a bad rotor housing, which you remove the middle intake stud, and it will slide right out.
2. broken/warped rear apex seals.
3. pinched coolant seal from ammiture build.
there are some important things to note/know
1. who made you coolant seals? how old are they/how many heat cycles?
i was using R/a teflon WRAPPED seals, R/a them self told me of having good luck in reusing they're seals if they were less then 40,000 miles and still mostly pliable.
in my experience, you can re use a coolant seal, inner or outer as long as they are still flexible, if you over heat them at all, they get hard, can actually melt and burn, and are no longer usable.
in the end you may pull of the rear iron with the intention of just replacing it, then see more damage then you were expecting, after all, it was wrecked, and much more could be damaged..
in your case you could try it, and see, then if it doesnt work plan for a full rebuild.. if you got the time to waste pulling a motor out and swapping a rear iron.. for me 6 hours in nothing.
(in my turbo fc, i have pulled the engine in 45 mins. from running to short block)
i've also removed a middle iron without taking apart the front cover stack(just back the pulley bolt off all but 4 threads, so you can lift the eccentric shaft) but thats a whole nother ball game.
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