no idea actually

 

iv decided to close out my life insurance and rebuild

 

lol.

 

Zip tie all your vacuum lines! A wideband wouldn't hurt either.

 

bullshit. fpr run at 65psi+ at static. when open to the atmosphere its around 45psi and at idle 28psi. it would not lean ur motor out. either way tho good luck w the rebuild i just gt mine back. just waiting on lim o rings

 

the fpr would be good at idle open to the atmosphere but under acceleration i think it would lean out cause it would stay at the same psi without the vaccum to it. Next time around be sure to use a wideband and or a fuel pressure gauge, i use a fuel pressure gauge on my na since i replaced the fuel damper with a banjo bolt

 

zip ties and badass clamps ftw.

 

a wideband to know your afr should almost be a must!

 

Chances are, since it was a JDM motor, it was already high mileage and lord only knows how long it was sitting prior to your buddies purchase, then your installation. Personally I would never chance installing a JDM anything without a full rebuild. Some people get lucky, others (such as yourself) get the short end of the stick. Live and learn I guess. But now you have a good reason to do a real rebuild and triple check hosing.

 

Go pull the vac hose off of your FPR while the engine is idling, or even attach a bike pump to it to jack it up to ~10 psi. When the black smoke starts pouring out the exhaust, come back and tell us it didn't make the mixture richer at all. There's a reason fuel pressure is supposed to increase with engine load.

Fuel pressure at 1 atm will be ~43.5 psi (lower in reality), and the pressure increase with boost is 1:1. In other words, you'd need to be making about 16.5+ pounds of boost before the FPR would allow a rail pressure of 65 psi. You can find information like this in the FSM. I suggest you try reading it.

 

I know aftermarket rising rate regulators are 1 pound of fuel pressure for every pound of boost, but does that apply to our factory regulators as well?

 

i'm sorry to hear that dude.. that must really suck.

If it makes you feel better.. I did something even more stupid. I swapped in my 750/1000 injectors, put on my rtek1.7, and bnr stage 4. got way too impatient for a tune and took it down the track untuned. my a/f gauge has went out aswell but i still insisted on making 1 pass. little did i know that 1 pass turned my perfect compression motor to 1 GOOD rotor, and 1 BLOWN rotor.. My boost spiked up past 16 pounds and i knew my engine was done for when it started rumbling.. I ran the compression test the night before i went to the track and they were both at 110 psi.. came back the next night ran a compression test on the rear rotor and it sits at 60 psi on 2 faces, and peaks at 90 psi on 1 face.

Hope my story makes you feel better lol.. cause i'm pretty pissed at myself why I couldn't just hold off until I got it tuned.. lol. and if you were wondering, i did t 16.8 pass detonating 1st, and up until 6k rpm of 2nd. So yep... 16.8 pass at 95 mph and a broken engine. definitely not worth it. lol

 

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA

 

here is why your **** blew.

Stock TII's with good clean injectors and a clean fuel pump already run just a little bit lean of what would be comfortable. Open up the exhaust and get a little boost creep.... leaner. Adding the FCD to eliminate the boost cut means you'll make even more boost (leaner) and the ECU won't even be able to cut fuel to stop the acceleration. Oh yah... when you tell the ECU that there is less boost than there is (the FCD does that), it won't pull timing for the additional boost that you've introduced....ping anyone?

If you want your TII to live, add an FPR and turn up the fuel pressure, add a wideband O2, then back the timing off 2-3 degrees. Tune the Air fuel to no leaner than 12:1 (for those of you that don't get it, the higher the A/F the leaner your mix), you can now add your FCD and turn the boost up to 12-13psi.

 

Bummer. Good luck with the rebuild. Maybe while your in there, do some porting.

 

thanks you guys im gonna try to avoid this problem next time, and when im in there im just gonna polish the ports, for smoother flow. i dont need a huge port.

but i will make it run a bit richer, so do i need to get an aftermarket FPR?

 

i feel your pain i bought my gxl and drove it about half a mile and lost the apex seals on the back rotor, thats been a year ago and i am jsut getting a chance to fix it

 

The delicacy of these engines should be considered when working on them and routing stuff since small mistakes can lead to big failures. Nature of the beast.

 

lmfao lmfao lmfao thank u that made my day

 

wll the thing is all of my vacuum lines were all right on, i followed the FSM and triple checked if everything was right, it was just a pain cause i took out the air pump and EGR, so i had to figure out which lines went where. the FPR hose just came off, it was routed right.