funny feeling in brake pedal.....
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: lincoln IE: HELL
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
funny feeling in brake pedal.....
Well I have a1990 gtu, all stock,
I just bought the car about a week ago, the owner said it needed new front rotors and pads, So I got em on, still had the pulstating pedal wheels shake bla blah, So I now figure it is the rears, ( now the front end doesn't shake when I brake but the pedal feels the same) And I can hear the warning sensors for the rear pads, But just recently, the pedal has been doing this really weird thing,
when I release the pedal all is normal untill theres about 10% left on return distance, it sticks, and then pops back to fully disengaged, so like I press down and then it sticks and pops out,
( this is all on the release of peddle ) , I was wondering could this mean sticking calipers or would it be the master cylander, I have receipts the old owner gave me and the car got a brand new Master C. in 2004, and it says the calipers were rebuilt, I am really stumped as I have never felt anything like this,
It literaly sticks, and then pops out, sometimes if I release the pedal slow enough it won't pop all the way back out, it will stay there untill I nudge the pedle with my foot. And It doesn't do it all of the time, about 90% tho.,
wtfr is going on? I am thinking sticky caliper?
other things are,
when I depress the pedal it feels like the rotors are warped to ****,
I just put new front rotors and new pads ( front )
Haven't touched the rears.
so it is most likely the rears need done right?
and just verry recently I started getting this deep squeel from the front rotors,
when I press the peddle softly down about 10% of the way down it makes this verry deep sounding squeel.
and also new happening is that right b4 I come to a complete stop I hear this heavy click' in the front brakes, like someone tapped the dust shield with a wrench???
Srry if this is hard to understand,
I plan on converting my car over to the 4pot calipers and vented rears,
But since the MasterC. is new I wanted to rule that out of the way for these problems.
thanx in advance.
appriciate any insight
matt-
I just bought the car about a week ago, the owner said it needed new front rotors and pads, So I got em on, still had the pulstating pedal wheels shake bla blah, So I now figure it is the rears, ( now the front end doesn't shake when I brake but the pedal feels the same) And I can hear the warning sensors for the rear pads, But just recently, the pedal has been doing this really weird thing,
when I release the pedal all is normal untill theres about 10% left on return distance, it sticks, and then pops back to fully disengaged, so like I press down and then it sticks and pops out,
( this is all on the release of peddle ) , I was wondering could this mean sticking calipers or would it be the master cylander, I have receipts the old owner gave me and the car got a brand new Master C. in 2004, and it says the calipers were rebuilt, I am really stumped as I have never felt anything like this,
It literaly sticks, and then pops out, sometimes if I release the pedal slow enough it won't pop all the way back out, it will stay there untill I nudge the pedle with my foot. And It doesn't do it all of the time, about 90% tho.,
wtfr is going on? I am thinking sticky caliper?
other things are,
when I depress the pedal it feels like the rotors are warped to ****,
I just put new front rotors and new pads ( front )
Haven't touched the rears.
so it is most likely the rears need done right?
and just verry recently I started getting this deep squeel from the front rotors,
when I press the peddle softly down about 10% of the way down it makes this verry deep sounding squeel.
and also new happening is that right b4 I come to a complete stop I hear this heavy click' in the front brakes, like someone tapped the dust shield with a wrench???
Srry if this is hard to understand,
I plan on converting my car over to the 4pot calipers and vented rears,
But since the MasterC. is new I wanted to rule that out of the way for these problems.
thanx in advance.
appriciate any insight
matt-
#2
Now With 10th AE Fun!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok the problem with the fronts seems like the exact same thing mine was doing. The pad spring wasn't put back in correctly and now when you stop it has a chance to rub the rotor on the spring, it makes a weird "tunk" sound I know. Its an easy fix though, lift the caliper and reset the spring. Kind of sounds like there in no spring on the rears but it could be a sticky caliper. I just replaced all four rotors and pads.
#5
Seduced by the DARK SIDE
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Orange Park FL (near Jax)
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Have a friend check your brake work.
Then oil the pedal pivot hinge. That's the cheap part.
If not the pedal, then it's likely the vacuum booster & servo unit.
There is a link to the on-line manuals in my sig.
Navagate to the brake section to download & print what you need.
Then oil the pedal pivot hinge. That's the cheap part.
If not the pedal, then it's likely the vacuum booster & servo unit.
There is a link to the on-line manuals in my sig.
Navagate to the brake section to download & print what you need.
#7
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: lincoln IE: HELL
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well I drove it today, and for probobly the first 1/2 hour of regular/spirited driving the brakes felt perfect, no pulsating, no weird clicking noise, and no sticky pedal, but about 20-30 mins later it all started hapening again?
I got it home and pulled the rear wheels off, to look at the pads/ rotors, they looked fine rear pads have quite-abit of meat left on them, So Now I am thinking booster.
how much would a shop normaly charge to install it?
I got it home and pulled the rear wheels off, to look at the pads/ rotors, they looked fine rear pads have quite-abit of meat left on them, So Now I am thinking booster.
how much would a shop normaly charge to install it?
Trending Topics
#9
Full Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Make sure its not the simply just the vacuum line as well. One of the hoses coming off the booster has a check valve. If you end up replacing the booster I would change both vacuum hoses as well.
Brian
Houston
'04 RX8
'90 Turbo Convertible
Brian
Houston
'04 RX8
'90 Turbo Convertible
#10
Now With 10th AE Fun!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I can almost guarantee the clicking or "tunk" as I like to call it, is one or a few of the pad springs. The pad spring on the rears is a little V which spreads the pads from the rotor. On the fronts it is a little Z shaped spring same thing it spreads the pads from the rotor. If you take that one bolt out of your caliper on the bottom you can pivot your caliper up and see what I am talking about. Also the Factory Service Manual for your car will have pics of the springs and where they go, its in the brakes section.
#11
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: lincoln IE: HELL
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well I sprayed the pedal pivots and all the **** above the pedal with lube,
and that apperantly fixed the stuck pedal,
I went for a nice cruise for about an hour in town, and nothing
not one noise pedal felt fine
as far as the clicking sound in the frnt, when I pulled my brakes off this morning,
on the outside pad, the little metal thing that helps hold the pad in place was off on the top, I got another and it fixed that problem, all that is left is the pulsating pedal, and it really isn't horrible unless I am braking heavy from above like 50 mph,
the pulsating is less noticable at lower speeds,
and that apperantly fixed the stuck pedal,
I went for a nice cruise for about an hour in town, and nothing
not one noise pedal felt fine
as far as the clicking sound in the frnt, when I pulled my brakes off this morning,
on the outside pad, the little metal thing that helps hold the pad in place was off on the top, I got another and it fixed that problem, all that is left is the pulsating pedal, and it really isn't horrible unless I am braking heavy from above like 50 mph,
the pulsating is less noticable at lower speeds,
#12
Seduced by the DARK SIDE
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Orange Park FL (near Jax)
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
It sounds like you have it mostly sorted out.
You may now only have a slightly bent rotor - no biggie.
FWIW: Avoid prying against the rotor when pushing back the pistons.
They bend quite easily.
You may now only have a slightly bent rotor - no biggie.
FWIW: Avoid prying against the rotor when pushing back the pistons.
They bend quite easily.
Last edited by SureShot; 02-22-06 at 11:39 PM.
#18
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: lincoln IE: HELL
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
60$
wow.,
no, here it cost 8$ dollars apeice. thats how much I paid to get my frnt ones done.
And I have all recepts from previous owner, with all new bushings, tie rod, ball joint,
everything was done in 2004, is that hard to belive or something?
wow.,
no, here it cost 8$ dollars apeice. thats how much I paid to get my frnt ones done.
And I have all recepts from previous owner, with all new bushings, tie rod, ball joint,
everything was done in 2004, is that hard to belive or something?
#19
Carter 2.0
Originally Posted by fc3sdrifter121
60$
wow.,
no, here it cost 8$ dollars apeice. thats how much I paid to get my frnt ones done.
And I have all recepts from previous owner, with all new bushings, tie rod, ball joint,
everything was done in 2004, is that hard to belive or something?
wow.,
no, here it cost 8$ dollars apeice. thats how much I paid to get my frnt ones done.
And I have all recepts from previous owner, with all new bushings, tie rod, ball joint,
everything was done in 2004, is that hard to belive or something?
No Disrespect for the previous owner, but even the factory can have a Ball Joint "Nut" come loose. I've seen it also happen in F1 racing, Nascar racing etc. Just saying....check it.
Think of the trailing of the wheel. It would be ok with no load on it but when you apply the brakes and the front end squats a bit the Toe/Camber or Caster is changed just enough and a loose fitting soemhow is now a factor leading you tho think you have a warped rotor..........it could happen
#20
I doubt its the rear rotors, normally when the rears are warped you feel it in your seat more than you do in the pedal. At least that's what I thought, maybe its when the rear tires are out of balance.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
73
09-16-18 07:16 PM
Devon300zx
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
15
09-16-15 06:57 AM
Nosferatu
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
7
09-05-15 02:13 PM