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Hello everyone, I am currently in a conversation with the owner of JAFA Engineering concerning a set of fully electric Aux port actuators. I searched the 1st gen and 2nd gen forums to see if anyone has tried these. Other than a few intake manifolds/adapters from this company, it appears that no one has. With this said, and assuming that no one has a set of these, I will try and set and see how they work. I will report back to you at some point in the future. From what I understand, the actuator positions are mapped to engine RPM and give a nice, gradual opening from 3,800 to 6K. They are fully open at 6K. They also are mapped to close in the same way by RPM. The guy did say that he had problems with the GSL-SE, but a tach signal filter rectifies the situation. Since I'm running a Haltech, he said that there shouldn't be any issues. I welcome your thoughts or comments. But please don't ask me, "Why do you want to try these?"
They aren't mapped to RPM exactly. On S4 models they're essentially mapped to load. When back-pressure builds in the exhaust it causes the actuators to open. So more load -> more back-pressure -> ports more open.
On S5 it's supplied by the air-pump and switched by the ECU. I think it's just simple on/off operation but I'm not entirely sure.
I recently did a conversion using solenoids. Once I get home from work I can upload pictures.
Ok thanks. Now I'm wondering if they would work better to snap fully open or gradually open with load? I think the guy said that they're mapped to engine speed.......whatever that means. I assumed he meant rpm's.
I came across this same system the other day while designing my own solution and based upon my understanding of the ad on eBay, the website, and Instagram post. It does open gradually, and it based upon the tach signal. I think some sources imply that the opening should be gradual considering the pressure from the exhaust would also be gradual. (suggests graduation in a round about way) Is it the best system? Probably not, but I appreciate the effort and will probably end up with one myself.
Yeah, I think a gradual opening according to load/RPM would be best. The problem with the stock systems is that if the aux port sleeves get even the slightest bit restricted, the backpressure from exhaust (S3, S4) or the pressure from the air pump (S5) often times will not open them all of the way. With an electric set up, I'm hoping that there will be a bit more delivery power to open them up. I'm probably going to order the set today and report back in the near future.
Yeah, I think a gradual opening according to load/RPM would be best. The problem with the stock systems is that if the aux port sleeves get even the slightest bit restricted, the backpressure from exhaust (S3, S4) or the pressure from the air pump (S5) often times will not open them all of the way. With an electric set up, I'm hoping that there will be a bit more delivery power to open them up. I'm probably going to order the set today and report back in the near future.
I have mine mapped to 3800rpm with an rpm switch. Best thing I ever did. Smoothest transition of power every time.
Last edited by PastaWhiskey; Mar 16, 2025 at 08:18 PM.
I have mine mapped to 3800rpm with an rpm switch. Best thing I ever did. Smoothest transition of power every time.
I love this. What actuators are those? Did you custom fabricate the whole thing? I'm looking to do something similar. Ive got electric air pumps driving the factory actuators currently, controlled by the Haltech Elite. I want to find something very slim fitting to replace the actuators, creating as much clearance as possible for a turbo manifold.
These were a prototype. I manufactured about 8 more sets and imported some rpm switches thinking I was going to sell kits.
Bugs so far:
1) The spring in the image above ended up being too tight. I ended up using 2 of the conical springs that came with the solenoids because my ports are a bit tight. I have lighter springs on the way (expected to arrive in May) which will solve that bug.
2) I had to make new pieces to connect to the bar that sticks out. The solenoids are galvanized and modiffying them makes rust. (Solved, but area of contact is narrower)
3) The protruding bit at the bottom will end up losing the nut and o-ring if not secured with loctite or something similar.
I fabricated some proper stainless metal plates for them to mount to and the thermals are super low. It's been over a year with the new plates and they still go strong.
