Full T2 swap, Nothing when you turn the key.
#1
Shark Flap
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Full T2 swap, Nothing when you turn the key.
I swapped everything over from one fc to another. Body harness, Engine, Trans, Rear, Battery relocated to behind passenger seat,Steering column and Dash. EVERYTHING. The engine ran in the other car, I went to try to fire it up.....nothing. When the key is just sitting in the ignition with the door open it dings. When you turn the key, not even the idiot lights come on. No lights, no fuel pump, nothing..... I'm just about at my wits end with this car. I'm coming to the point where I'm about to just trade it for a running DD. Does anyone have any idea what might be going on? Looking for someone who may have had this or something similar happen to them to maybe point me in the right direction.
#3
Rotors? What Are Those?
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Jefferson City, Tn
Posts: 2,601
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I swapped everything over from one fc to another. Body harness, Engine, Trans, Rear, Battery relocated to behind passenger seat,Steering column and Dash. EVERYTHING. The engine ran in the other car, I went to try to fire it up.....nothing. When the key is just sitting in the ignition with the door open it dings. When you turn the key, not even the idiot lights come on. No lights, no fuel pump, nothing..... I'm just about at my wits end with this car. I'm coming to the point where I'm about to just trade it for a running DD. Does anyone have any idea what might be going on? Looking for someone who may have had this or something similar happen to them to maybe point me in the right direction.
TwEaK
#4
Rotary Enthusiast
^wat tweak said. if your swapping everythin from the same yr fc's then you dont have to change every harness in there. You sure you didnt leave anything out? Sounds like you might have missed a connection somewhere.
#5
Shark Flap
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No missed connections that I know of yet. It wasn't that I thought I had to.... I had to. There were burnt wires on the fuse panel of the new car. I didn't know the history on the car so I decided to swap chassis harnesses to make it easier on me. (Not to mention once I got the old harness out I realized it was ruined.)
Everything worked when it was in the other car. I can't really imagine the ignition portion of the harness went bad from swapping to a new car but is entirely possible. As far as I can tell (so far) all fuses are good. I think it's just going to boil down to going over every connector in the car and making sure everything is where it should be. Thanks for the advice everyone. It's truly appreciated. Keep 'em comin'! I'll be sure to report back should I find something.
Steve.
Everything worked when it was in the other car. I can't really imagine the ignition portion of the harness went bad from swapping to a new car but is entirely possible. As far as I can tell (so far) all fuses are good. I think it's just going to boil down to going over every connector in the car and making sure everything is where it should be. Thanks for the advice everyone. It's truly appreciated. Keep 'em comin'! I'll be sure to report back should I find something.
Steve.
Last edited by Z3r0 s1gnaL; 03-16-10 at 06:59 PM.
#7
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes
on
20 Posts
Your missing the power to the ignition key from the engine bay fuse box. It's as simple as that. There are three elect plugs on the ignition switch. One has a pure black wire. THAT wire powers the START circuit and also powers three of the four busses on the interior fuse box.
The pure black wire goes to the engine bay fuse box and connects to that box at a single wire connector located about six inches below the engine bay fuse box. So pull the plug aprat at the ignition switch, and see if there is batt voltage on that pure black wire......or not. Fix same if no power there.
Main Relay has nothing to do with the starter itself turning over.
OR the MAIN FUSE is blown in the engine bay fuse box. Check that first. Bolted into the box.
The pure black wire goes to the engine bay fuse box and connects to that box at a single wire connector located about six inches below the engine bay fuse box. So pull the plug aprat at the ignition switch, and see if there is batt voltage on that pure black wire......or not. Fix same if no power there.
Main Relay has nothing to do with the starter itself turning over.
OR the MAIN FUSE is blown in the engine bay fuse box. Check that first. Bolted into the box.
Trending Topics
#8
Shark Flap
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Your missing the power to the ignition key from the engine bay fuse box. It's as simple as that. There are three elect plugs on the ignition switch. One has a pure black wire. THAT wire powers the START circuit and also powers three of the four busses on the interior fuse box.
The pure black wire goes to the engine bay fuse box and connects to that box at a single wire connector located about six inches below the engine bay fuse box. So pull the plug apart at the ignition switch, and see if there is batt voltage on that pure black wire......or not. Fix same if no power there.
Main Relay has nothing to do with the starter itself turning over.
OR the MAIN FUSE is blown in the engine bay fuse box. Check that first. Bolted into the box.
The pure black wire goes to the engine bay fuse box and connects to that box at a single wire connector located about six inches below the engine bay fuse box. So pull the plug apart at the ignition switch, and see if there is batt voltage on that pure black wire......or not. Fix same if no power there.
Main Relay has nothing to do with the starter itself turning over.
OR the MAIN FUSE is blown in the engine bay fuse box. Check that first. Bolted into the box.
The pure black wire goes to the Engine bay box and connects to a single wire six inches below? I'll go check on that right now. I tried checking for voltage on those plugs without taking the plugs off of the column. I'll be back in minutes to tell if I find anything.
Thank you HAILERS. You seem to know quite a bit about FC's electronically, and I always welcome your input.
#9
Shark Flap
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
HAILERS!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I could freaking kiss you right now!!! You are seriously THE F*CKING MAN! You were totally right. Thank you everyone. Problem found and solved. Now the starter isn't spinning. But that's ok. I'm not sure if the starter ever worked, I had the car started with my N/A trans and starter before. So now I need to take it off and find out if it actually works on a bench test.
Last edited by Z3r0 s1gnaL; 03-16-10 at 07:46 PM.
#10
Shark Flap
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well I still haven't taken the starter off to do the bench test, but the fuel pump isn't working either right now. Is there a correlation between the two? Is there something that could cause both problems? Right now I'm going through fuses and wiring. I've hooked to fuel pump up to the battery straight and it is a good fuel pump. Thanks in advance.
#11
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Well I still haven't taken the starter off to do the bench test, but the fuel pump isn't working either right now. Is there a correlation between the two? Is there something that could cause both problems? Right now I'm going through fuses and wiring. I've hooked to fuel pump up to the battery straight and it is a good fuel pump. Thanks in advance.
#13
Shark Flap
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The only thing missing now is the starter working. I'm thinking the starter doesn't work at all. It had been sitting for about 7 years before I got it. It came from the turbo donor car I got the drivetrain from. Any way to rebuild one?
#14
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes
on
20 Posts
The starter..........no need to remove it to test it. Just jack up the car and get under it with it out of gear.
Grab a screwdriver. Now look at the starter. It has one small wire. Pull the small wire off and set it aside. Now with the screwdriver shank, bridge the gap b/t the small terminal and the large wire on the solenoid. The starter should spin over proving the starter is good. Engine should turn over also.
Bridge the gap means..........touching the small terminal with the screwdrivers shank at the same time you touch the large wire with the shank. Sparks a bit when doing so.
The starter will probably turn over when you do that proving the starter is good. The problem lies in the start circuit from the ignition key to the small terminal on the starter. For some reason that circuit is open. The most likely place it is open is the switch on the clutch pedal. The switch is called the interlock switch.
There are two swtiches on the pedal. One down low and one waaay up high on the clutch pedal. THAT is the switch you need to look at. It has a pigtail harness with elect plug. Make sure it's plugged into the harness and not just laying there unplugged. Should have two wires to it. One black/red and one black/green. Opps. Let's make that clear. The pigtail connects to the harness and the half of the connector that is on the harness side, has the two wires of those colors...green/black and black/red.
Grab a screwdriver. Now look at the starter. It has one small wire. Pull the small wire off and set it aside. Now with the screwdriver shank, bridge the gap b/t the small terminal and the large wire on the solenoid. The starter should spin over proving the starter is good. Engine should turn over also.
Bridge the gap means..........touching the small terminal with the screwdrivers shank at the same time you touch the large wire with the shank. Sparks a bit when doing so.
The starter will probably turn over when you do that proving the starter is good. The problem lies in the start circuit from the ignition key to the small terminal on the starter. For some reason that circuit is open. The most likely place it is open is the switch on the clutch pedal. The switch is called the interlock switch.
There are two swtiches on the pedal. One down low and one waaay up high on the clutch pedal. THAT is the switch you need to look at. It has a pigtail harness with elect plug. Make sure it's plugged into the harness and not just laying there unplugged. Should have two wires to it. One black/red and one black/green. Opps. Let's make that clear. The pigtail connects to the harness and the half of the connector that is on the harness side, has the two wires of those colors...green/black and black/red.
#15
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (3)
I just want to say I too have heart filled thoughts for hailers.
I was just pulling my hair out over not having power to the ignition last night. After searching and reading this thread I went out to the car right now and saw that wire was just ever so slightly unplugged. Car works fine now.
Hailers should get a medal.
I was just pulling my hair out over not having power to the ignition last night. After searching and reading this thread I went out to the car right now and saw that wire was just ever so slightly unplugged. Car works fine now.
Hailers should get a medal.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
07-01-23 04:40 PM
The Shaolin
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
9
09-14-15 07:50 PM
rx8volks
Canadian Forum
0
08-11-15 10:30 PM